JEFF

The trans will "plug and play" to your '77. I would like the '240Z' emblem on the rear hatch & all the other emblems if they are in very nice condition. The vinyl would be nice to have too. BTW i like that style of wheel too. - Jeff

I would remove an area large enough to expose the flaked area plus a little. undercoat what is needed that way. If you are willing to do a Full strip then do so. That project is very messy and lengthy. Prepare to spend some time under there. ( wear safety glasses nomatter how sweaty your face gets ). POR15 is an exelent product - be sure to use it as manufacture recomends. 2 cents worth. - Jeff

Boy!!! $1.58 would make my day! Detroit prices vary a bit - 87 octaine can be as high as $1.85 - And as low as $1.71. At 16 - 18 mpg in both my truck (mine) and my wife's van we are spending a little over $700.00 per month. - Jeff

SHOTIME - Check in Hemmings Motor News - There are a lot of scrap yards located in south west U.S. I have mail ordered many parts from some of them & have never had a bad/ugly/wornout/or broken part come from them. The prices were what i thought to be cheep. I would think that you should be able to get a tank for about the same or less than the fuel cell you mentioned. My thought is buy a tank. - Jeff

Exelent - I have that picture saved in my 'backgrounds' library - it makes it cycle through about every 3 weeks ( i change them daily ) - Jeff

I like the bumper style - but not the lights. ( red car ) Gav240z - Is that blue car yours? I realy like the color & looking for something close if not that color. Do you know what that color is? Thanks, Jeff

The oil pump is new & the pressure reads as it always has - high side of center on the guage at idle. - Jeff

2ManyZs - When I assembled the pistons/rings the gaps of the oil scraper rings were set 180 deg. apart, But probably not at 10 o'clock & 4 o'clock just that they were 180 deg. apart was what I thought was important. The 1st & 2nd compression rings were also set 180 deg. apart - starting at 90 deg. to the gaps on the oil scrapers. Compression is at 180 psi across all 6.(oil wet w/ all 6 plugs out.) When I get back over to the shop I am installing new valve seals - cross your fingers for me that I find something wrong with the seals on one or more of the front 3 cylinders. To pull the engine yet again would be faster than previously but STILL no fun! - Jeff

Is it possible to install oil rings upside down? Or are the scrapers the same shape - topside and bottom side? I have not installed the new valve seals yet, but i keep thinking about other possibilities. When the engine(freshly honed & ringed ) is idling it smokes alot of oil smoke. When i shut it off it drips oil out of the open header. It only drips from the pipe that comes from the front 3 cylinders. Thats a lot of oil going through the combustion chambers don't you think?? Any thoughts on this?? - Jeff

Sorry guys - I've had that link stored in a folder for some time now , intending to use it for my conversion. It does not work in my computer either now. -Jeff

TexasZ - Try this site -- it's step by step. http://www.gfs1.com/racing/articles/brakes.html - Jeff

Thankyou Royce! That looks like a good remedy! I'll try it when i get back over to my dads shop. - Jeff

Your friend is partialy right. But try this first...... pull up on the bottom of the door enough to see if the lower hinge pin is loose in the hinge hole. If it is then the hinge pin needs to be replaced and the honge holes need to be rebushed,( new pin bushings ). The other alternative to doing that is to replace the hinge. I'm pretty sure if the back of the door needs to come up about an inch then there may be a larger problem. - Jeff

Royce - my Z was built in 10 / '71 as a '72 model. the ashtray is behind the shifter. The 4 speed trans. I took out was from a '73. My car was originaly a automatic. The 4 speed is fine and it fit correctly. I bought a '78 parts car for the N47 head, electronic ignition and the fuel injection --- now all installed on my 240 block. The 5 speed was there so I took it out - last week when I honed and reringed my block I put the 5 speed in. The spot where the shift lever enters the trans. is differant than the '73. It is almost right under the front of the opening, then the lever goes back on about 45 deg. then straight up. The shifter will shift all 5 gears & reverse( rubs a little at the front-needs alittle clearance cut)) it's just not in the right place. I will get to mom & dads tomarrow to try the console over it to see if it works. If i do not have to modify the console to shift all the gears i'll leave it in to have that 5th gear. sound like the right thing to do? Thank you for your responses! Ps the link you gave me says the page has expired. - Jeff

ZmeFly - your suggestion will work to put the shift lever in the center of the console opening without effecting the shifting action?? - Jeff

ZmeFly - i installed the '78 5 speed in my '72 - the shifter lever is rubbing hard at the front of the opening ( about 3" farther forward than the older trans. ) does your shifter fit in the console opening correctly? do i only need to make room for the shifter in the trans. tunnel? OR do i put the perfictly good 4 speed back in? - jeff

I have a '72 240Z that i would like to put a '78 5 speed trans. into - How do i get the shifter to be in the correct location? Thanks guys - - Jeff

Yes i put the baffle back in correctly after cleaning it. The PCV is brand new. the valve seals are in at the store .. they go in the car tomarrow - i will post late tomarrow night what i find and what happened. Thanks for your support. - Jeff

I did the same as dozer171 - I love the handling of my car. Ofcorse i have 30 year old rubber as the comparision. - Jeff

dozer171 - When i put the '78 N47 head on my L24 block I also put on the '78 fuel injection and electronic ignition. Yeah Oil carbs no more! Would you think that the valve seals COULD leak enough on an intake stroke to let in a nonburnable amount (lots) of oil so that it drips out of the open header ? When it runs at idle it is splattering alittle bit of oil on the floor - if i bring the rpm up to 1500 or so for 1 - 1 1/2 min. then it spits alot more than at idle, then shut it off and a puddle about the size of a softball will form in a few minutes. Valve seals are being installed tomarrow. Do you think this is the problem?? Thanks for responding to my post - Jeff

2MANYZ - lets hope valve seals are where the problem lies. cross your fingers for me - i'll see it tomarrow. - Jeff

The compression was 163 - 167 psi before the first start up. 1/2 hour later it was 180 psi across the board. cylinder leak down test showed about 8% leak down - I was told that was really good. The valve seals were not replaced during the head swap - new ones are on order as i type. the smoke is from oil getting into the comb. cham. The header is wide open without the 'y' pipe on it - the oil drips from the pipe coming from the front 3 cylinders , so i pulled the plugs out - #3 is very oil fouled - #1 & #2 are alittle oil fouled -- #'s 4 - 6 look good. I am thinking the valve seals are the problem - what do you think? Thanks - Jeff

I'll have a lok on tues. evening. Thanks 2Manyz - Jeff

Here is the scoop - Fresh hone and rings in .030 over flat top pistons in the L24. laped the valves on the N47 and assembeled with new gaskets.(cylinder compression is at 180 psi across all 6 cylinders) I have the fuel injection for the '78 head all figured out. Last night i started it up. Started up on the first piston to the top- i was excited!!! After timing it - i let it run about 8-10 min. to clear the cylinders of the assembly oil and seat the rings alittle. I shut it off to have a celibration ciggerette. I have oil dripping out of the header - I ran it some more - Dripped alot more - ran it some more - dripped more - after about 1 hour of the smokie shop i decided something is not right - Go to the site and ask -- ANY SUGGESTIONS GUYS ??? - Jeff

If the head ports are the same shape --- no problem. - Jeff