conedodger

Don't be caught without a donut in your hand on November 20th! The Sacramento Z Car Reunion is on!!!

Get ready for the Turkey!!! October was great! About 20 people in spite of the rain. It was great to see you all but now we have to do it again... Hopefully better weather this time out. The November Sacramento Z Car Family Reunion is Saturday November 20th, 9am to noonish. See you there!

The link Dave has posted is the link where you can download them for free.

All available as download without the $50...

You have to break the fuel line at some point and put a gauge in-line. I think if memory serves the FSM also calls for a check of the quantity pumped in a minute as well...

The Water Temperature sensor or Cylinder head temperature sensor as I said before richens the mixture when it senses the head is hot. Since it is a resistance signal, full resistance means the head is hot and the ECU is responding accordingly. Probably a bad connection or a brake in the wire.

You should be able to put the AFM model number found on the side of it in an ad in the classified section here. If a guy named Daniel Parsignault contacts you, I have never gotten anything from him that didn't turn out to be near perfect so trust him. I (and Mr. Zed Head) are not saying the AFM isn't bad, it could well be. It's just that it really doesn't have a function during start and idle. Enough air bypasses it to start and idle. A couple things that could make it rich and not able to start, one is if that wire from the cylinder head temp sensor found on the thermostat housing is disconnected or internally broken or if the sensor itself has gone bad. This tells the 'brain' that the engine is overheated and it calls for a 'full rich' path on the algorithm. A second would be if the injectors themselves are leaking or stuck in the open position. It doesn't take more than say one or two of them sticking to have a car that doesn't start as it just pours fuel in. What does your fuel pressure do after you turn your key off? It should stay constant. If it drops you would have problems with hot start even if you could get it started and running. It sounds like you have gotten a hold of a manual which is good. The problem is that although you find one problem, it doesn't mean you fix that and the car runs. EFI adds many levels of variables which can complicate figuring out what is wrong. The benefit to doing the more complicated job of figuring it out is that EFI cars are very drivable. This means they start easily, get good mileage, are happy no matter what altitude you drive to. As for Brett industries, try calling 411 from your cell phone and when they ask for city and state say Orange, CA. That should get you the number. These are the guys that supply rebuilt AFM to Motorsport Auto and many others. For injector cleaning and balancing I recommend RC Engineering or Marren (sp?). Check the back of Grassroots Motorsports for their contact info as they are both longtime advertisers. I have some spare injectors you can have, in case some of yours are bad. You send them your injectors and they rebuild them and clean them. Then they balance the flow. Makes for a very smooth running engine when you get them back and in. Cost the last time I did it was about $30/ injector so not dirt cheap.

It depends on your available equipment too. I purchased the cover kit from Classic Datsun Motorsport and that was the extent of the $ involved. I have a bead blaster so I took apart the assemblies on both sides and after bead blasting I refinished them. If you don't have a bead blaster, then that adds to the $ involved. Mine are red and now look like new. Yours should look good and it looks like they sit low enough. I wonder about that side pod thing on them though. Not a lot of room for it.

Your originals are a bit rare... I would recover them but everyone has a different perspective.

Mr. Head is correct. Are sure it isn't the Throttle Position Sensor? It has a setting for idle and WOT. Have you also checked the Cylinder Head Temperture sensor? If the wire is broken or the sensor is bad it sends an infinity resistance signal and the engine if it will run would be full rich. Lots of variables in EFI... You just have to call directory assistance for Brett. The last time I was there was a decade ago and they were under the original owner. I had a website called PlanetZ and I used to make Turbo AFM for NA cars. Frankly it doesn't work very well, and I quit doing it.

Ok, so I get up early... Big deal! 2.5 hours till the October Sacramento Z Car Reunion! It should be fun. Bill and I went to Thunderhill for the Northern California Racers Club - Track Day. Shot some mini-cam video (I think. Never used the thing before). If I was successful, we should be able to show it. See you there... Oh, and the weather looks to be holding for now. (fingers crossed)

Find another and swap it out or send the existing one to Brett Industries in Orange, CA and have it rebuilt.

In response to Arne's "has anyone considered..." question. I have... I sent them to Snake-Oyl Products but haven't heard back yet. My car is kind of half, restoration appearance wise, and track car underneath... So, it has both competition and stock belts...

I just removed an Autometer Tach when I put my new dash in. Sport Comp with shift light, if you're interested.

Still only 30% up here Julio... Our rain isn't salty either... That's just you guys!

It's coming up fast! The October Sacramento Z Car Reunion! Rain or shine... We'd love to see you even if you don't bring the car out in the rain. 20% chance... Boo!

Julio, It would be nice to meet you. Madamba and Parmley are regulars so you will not be alone. Me and Madamba will be at the track with his Z the day before so the lying will be thick and the truth will run scared...

Mr. Humble wrote that book back when there was a prayer that weatherstripping would be reusable. I have seen them fall into as many as 8 peices without the window to hold them together. The new weatherstripping is not that expensive.

First, take a box knife and cut just along the outside border of the chrome trim so that you cut off the outboard lip of the trim. This allows you to remove the trim without bending it up. Store it safely. Next take the box knife and cut along the outboard edge of the glass all the way around the glass. Now, push from the inside and remove the glass. Now, pull out the old rubber weatherstripping. Not sure what you mean by urathaned in place but it only requires the weatherstripping to hold it in place. Anything else is just overkill by whoever put it in last.

Dave, It isn't specifically a swap meet and I do have one every spring but go ahead and bring your stash... I decide the etiquette I guess and it is ok with me...

If you like them and want to use them, I have another set I just took off. PM me...

One week to go! The October Sacramento Z Car Reunion is October 23rd! 9am to noonish - Family Donuts and Deli, Fair Oaks Blvd. and San Juan Avenue... Come on down and meet the gang! Don't miss it!

IIRC from a story in Grassroots Motorsports Magazine about a guy with a 'budget' 944 racecar build, most steering racks are rebuilt by a company on the East Coast somewhere. I will try to find the story. If it is still true, they worked directly with the individuals and not just rebuilt for Kragen and such. Cutting out the middleman might make this cheaper. Also, as I recall, it wasn't that complicated to rebuild the Porsche rack. How complicated could ours be?

I agree with Steve... It is kind of cultural to the experience the cars had when they were on the road. In the Midwest they rot out from road salt but they can't be driven in the winter so the driveline is in good shape and rubber weatherstripping is probably good too. Here in California, the driveline is shot and so is the weatherstripping from the year long driving and the sun. We should have exchange wrecking yards!

I have 'a' shifter lever but I am not sure what it is from other than a 280Z