conedodger

More PLN...

I'm still looking for a set of these to reverse engineer and make in alloy. Here is a set of Porsche 914 calipers I did the same with. They would be about 4# lighter per side and use larger fasteners to mitigate any flex from the lighter material. It might even be possible to add a spacer for vented rotors.

PLN

Autographed...

PLN in the pits...

New shoes...

How about one of the local ski lifts? No $^!#...

I work in the San Francisco Bay Area but live in Incline Village, Nevada (Lake Tahoe). My normal commute is 3:10 minutes. I work for a week and I'm off for a week. I got off last Monday at 6pm and it took me 42 hours to get home! I arrived Wednesday at 12n. Oh, and there was 15' of new snow at home!

Allison. Celebrity race?

Frank Capua. The character that probably started it all...

Mine is worth a lot more. Of course, it was ported and polished and had big valves installed by BC Gerolomy in the 1970's so... (insert evil grin here!)

I bought one new from Nissan less than ten years ago for less than $200

PLN

Dave sometimes takes a few days to answer. Never failed to answer me within a week though...

You're still getting hung up on that number. When someone tells you 11.2:1 they're telling you static compression. Meaning the engine isn't running. Dynamic compression is the number you care about. There are a few of us here who have been around Z cars for decades that can impart experience but your next best move is to invest in a long distance phone call or email Dave Rebello. Be prepared to tell him everything you have and especially what your goal is. Ask him to sell you a cam. Dave has something like 30 grinds that he uses. He can set you on the right path. My ignition system is in pieces right now but here are the crank fire parts-

We are talking about two different animals. Static compression is a calculation related to chamber volume and deck height. It's a number that while it may sound dramatic, is only a factor your starter has to overcome to get things moving. Dynamic compression is where the pinging might occur. Your cam overlap should take care of the excess compression. As has been mentioned, you'll want a good ignition system. I'm going with crank fired coil on plug. I would be very studious about selecting your cam. While it can be changed later, do you really want to?

Here is my setup. I hid the gauge in the ashtray which I don't use. I welded a bung in the header after the six pipes collect. Originality or the appearance of originality is a guiding principle to me. This allowed me to tune the carbs as best as carbs can ever be tuned I guess. Then, when I'm done gathering my information, I close the ashtray cover and it's gone!

I would add to what Patton said, balance everything as an assembly, including the clutch and pressure plate. In fact, buy a second clutch and pressure plate so you have a spare when you wear the first one out. The long cranks in the L motors do not like imbalance!

Static compression only effects the starter. Your cam will mitigate the higher compression if you select the correct one. I would use an electric fuel pump. Fuel starvation kills engines. Oh, and the L motors love compression. I once overheated and had to rebuild and shave the head. Wow!

Morton...

Cool! I'm 5 miles away from the entrance at my smog shop!

Thanks!

I believe I actually said 250-300HP. Rebello says this combination of forged pistons, stroked crank and lightened H-beam rods makes up to 300HP and 290lbs/ft of torque. I'm using a ported and polished E31 head with big valves that has been modified with injector ports for the Megasquirt Pro EMS. This is all on Dave Rebello's website if you want to check it out...