Zedyone_kenobi

I cannot go more than 3 turns out as the car will not run anymore. It stumbles so badly it barely runs... I took off the PCV and blew into it from both sides... only could blow through it in one direction I will cap it though and go for a drive..

With the float hung upside down, I picked up the float and the instant it touched the needle with the tang, I took the measurement. It was about .55" as per the factory manual. This differs from the SU video as he showed the float top parallel with the float bowl cover when held upside down. Maybe I should ask Bruce for an explanation of this.

I currently run 17 degrees BTDC per the european spec dizzy I had mine recurved to match. I do not run a Vacuum Advance. I have made the runs with the BARE SU;s with no air cleaner (just plain easier to adjust quickly), with the air cleaner base on but no filter or housing (to get the benefit of the air horns), and with the air cleaner. NO noticeable difference either way. Get popping from the exhaust in all part throttle situations near 4000 rpm. I just do not see it being a fuel delivery problem when I will run at WOT, but not part throttle

I have 2 extra fuel filters lying around. I will put one on when I get home today before I check out my car for vacuum leaks. Cant hurt.

again, webers or mikunis haha

Vacuum leaks is my next check. It just makes sense. I think it is safe to say we have ruled out SU oil as a cause. It popped with 2 wt 12.5 wt 20 wt It popped with SM needles and stock OEM needles Pistons are moving up and down in the domes at the same speed. Car has a great idle. Car ran noticeably better with SM needles Here is what I have NOT done: I have checked fuel pressure from my brand new fuel pump, which was good, but I have not checked volume. OR pressure while the car is being driven. But I ruled that out as if I can rev to 6500 rpm at wide open throttle I am getting fuel. I have NOT checked if the fuel level is right at the top of the jet opening in the carb body, I just assumed the float bowls being properly adjusted was okay. I have not done a proper vacuum check of my power brake line for leaks (will do that today) I have not checked for a lose connection of my header to my exhaust pipe, but have checked most of the bolts on my header to my cylinder head, but not all. I have not installed a wideband O2 sensor yet, but it will be here tomorrow which should GREATLY help narrow down things in a direction of goodness.

Man, that is tough, I have no idea, it seems to pull okay, but I have only ever driven one other classic Z and it was stock. I would say it feels like a stock Z madkaw. It revs pretty nicely at WOT. Of course, the tach go bazerk when I get close to 6000 rpm

I have not checked for vacuum leaks around the exhaust guy. I did check for manifold bolt tightness, and all the nuts on the studs were as I left them. All the carbs are tight. I will run an extensive battery of vacuum checks when I get home with my vac gage. That is easy enough. I did that earlier, and I think I got around 20 " if I recall. I wrote it down in my Z car journal. Still it cannot hurt to check.

Guy, I will check out my exhaust tonight to be sure.

Thanks very much Guy. UPDATE: I am about ready to throw these freaking SU's in the river. After I shoot them. THe 20wt oil did absolutely nothing to the problem. If I gradually push the throttle about an inch, the car pops loudly through the exhaust. If I floor it it will pull hard through all 3 first gears. Guy, I have a thought that you may be on to something. There is just no reason these SU's should not work the way they are... What the hell would cause popping and a complete loss of acceleration at part throttle but works when at wide open throttle. I am going to put the SM needles back in and call it quits until I get my wideband. I have had it.. screw these. Maybe I need a time out. spending 1499 dollars on webers or 1650 on mikunis is sounding like a far better option at this point! HAHA

Nice setup! My lc1 comes in this week. Let me know how you powered it. I was thinking the CIG lighter may work

wow, that thing is really going to be nice! Keep up posted on your progress... I love those older VeeDubs

Thanks for your advice madkaw! I certainly appreciate it.

I made my evap system back to 100% stock. All hoses that are suppose to run to the tank, run to the tank. All hoses that are suppose to run to the engine and filler neck, run to the engine and filler neck.

I will put that on the list after I try this 20 wt. I wonder what the 71 manual says to put in it. I cannot imagine it would be anything different. I have been running the SU oil for a while now as MSA says ..."this is the perfect oil for your SU's".... If it is 12 wt, I cannot imagine why they said that. When I first got my SU's from Z therapy, I put 20wt in them and that was as good as they ever ran. Then I remember switching to the MSA SU oil because... well because it was SU oil! I somehow thought it would work better...

Good ideas guys. Blue, the reason I am on the oil right now is I sort of half way ran that test yesterday with the Marvel Mystery oil (about 3 wt according to interwebz sources) and any gradual roll on to the throttle seemed okay, but any drastic change at all the engine just about stopped running. THe more I moved the butterflies the more drastic it became. So here is my logic. Flawed as it may be. Right now my pistons drop perfectly in tune with each other. With or without the top of the carb screwed in. So I know there is no hang up in the needle or the piston. CHECK! With SU oil (12.5 wt, thanks 30 Ounce), it popped and sputtered at about 4500 rpm With Marvel Mystery oil (3 wt ), it popped far worse at about 2500 rpm I am now running straight 20 wt. We will see when I get her on the road today, if the trend continues, this SHOULD get me on the right track... But I will not rule out a 15wt oil if this works as well. Like a bad sit com... The saga continues...

UPDATE: 5pm this evening I get all the carbs back together and fill them with a lighter oil. I used Marvel Mystery oil per somebodies suggestion. Car now pops and sputters at any throttle change above 2200 rpm. It is leaning out way to fast as that piston rises so much faster. Definitely a step in the wrong direction! I will clean out the carbs again and fill them with straight 20 wt oil. I have no idea what the SU oil is that I bought. I only know the marvel mystery oil made the plunger FAR easier to push up.

H&K, Very nice...

Just wanted to thank all of you again for the help. I am usually pretty savy with carbs. Was a bit of a Holley guru in my V8 days. and these SU's seem just wonderfully simple, but often the most complex things are the simplest. For the life of me, though, everything I do seems to result in ziltch. They are so clean you could eat off of them. This is truly a strange case. After I get the wideband stuff, it will at least point me in a direction...lean or rich.. well lets hope so.

It seems I am right with the first two methods Blue. Nothing is really far from being 'spot on'. Everything appears to be as it should. I am going to blow out all the fuel lines and put everything back together. Then I will get some clear tubing and try to mark where the float comes up on the car. But all of this is just for ****s and giggles until I get my wideband installed this week! Should be here tomorrow or wednesday.

Screw it I am getting Mikunis! HAHAAH

checked the floats this morning...They are right at exactly .55" when they first contact the seats +\- 0.010" They pass the blow test as well, and shut off fuel right about the same time too. Humm, another lead down the tubes. I did notice that when I first looked at the front float, that the wrist pin was dislodged on one side. Now I do not know if I did that when I removed it or not, but it was the only thing noteworthy at all in inspecting the floats. If there are no more ideas, I will put them back on the car? What torque goes on that 10 in lbs? It is not much?

Okay, I will make these adjustments today. I understand what is going on now I think... The Z therapy video has the float hung upside down and it is about .55" and level with the float top.. that may be due to the Gross jet he is using, which seems to have FAR less travel than my needle and seat. More on this later today...

Well how thick is that float gage?

I think that float was just stained