Zedyone_kenobi

not sure where to put this thread, and I apologize in advance for this going into a Z forum, but it seems that I have enjoyed getting to know so many people here, and what I have learned is that there are some VERY knowledgeable people here on topics that span more than Z cars. A good buddy of mine is thinking of getting a 73 TR6 as a project, and I wanted to know if anybody here has any advice on this particular car. Again, sorry to pollute the Z forums

I do not envy you my friend, but I can thank you for sharing your experiences. We can all benefit from the lessons learned.

UPDATE: I got up waay to early this morning and carefully got the slave and rubber hose off with it. Happy to report all fittings yeilded with no drama. When I laid the slave that came off the car (original to the car as far as my notes and receipts show) next to the one I purchased from courtesy, also an OEM unit, they were some interesting differences... Here is the picture: They are both NABCO units with Japan stamped in them. But the unit on the car has 11/16 stamped into it, and the replacement had 3/4. Making the logical jump that these are ID measurements, the replacement unit is slightly larger inside. This would mean more pedal travel and less pedal pressure from inside the car. I really do not mind this as my clutch as always been a bit particular. It always engaged in the first 1.5 inches of clutch pedal stroke. The last 7 inches really did not matter. So this larger volume may help get the pedal to use more of its stroke. also of note, I pulled the push rod from both of the units...this is curious.. the push rod on top is the one off the car and has a nice hemisphere on the end to push the clutch lever. The new shiny cad one was with the replacement unit. Obviously some part swapping will have to happen, as I do not think that replacement will work in its present state. More to come as it goes back together

I would wager you could do it yourself for quite a bit cheaper. There are many threads on here that discuss how to do the resto...give it a look maybe?

Jeff G that is what I found as well, good summary. IF I want to keep it original, I need to get that part. I may just install the slave now, and then order the MC so that it looks right. Rock auto was the only place in my research I found that shorty MC. Still good to know that the longer one was OEM for the later vehicles. I figured as much, as it is still listed as an OEM quality replacement.

UPDATE: Just checked autoanything.com they sell a brand called Nabtesco, think it is the new OEM approved vendor. Seems like it COULD be a new company formed from what use to be NABCO. Just a guess. I will check with courtesy to see what they offer. UPDATE2: The clutch master cylinder sold by Courtesy looks just like the one above. Rock auto had some shorty ones that would not require moving the fluid line that is just like the one currently installed. They are made by RHINOPAC, SACHS, and BECK/ARNLEY

Here are the pics of the replacement parts I have acquired. The new slave is from Courtesy Nissan, Its a Nabco It has 3/4 stamped on the side. My slave master cylinder on the car is a nabco as well, but I could not get a good picture showing it. My replacement slave master cylinder is a Sanyco: And the odd thing about it is that it is about 1.5 inches longer than the nabco installed on the car. It will run perilously close to water bottle for the windshield squirters. My question is the Sanyco and Nabco compatible. The MC is stamped 5/8, and the slave is stamped 3/4, so the MC seems to have a smaller volume which is good, as it will not overextend the slave. It does seem that the Nabco looks to be of higher quality than the Sanyco. Was the Sanyco unit an OEM part as well, where was it made?

I have done a car show and a parade lap or two at MSR in the Z, but since then I have had a good time with her at Grand sport speedway and she had her track day debut. Now I have to fix my clutch slave cylinder.. then its off to the aeros and autos car show on the 8th of may at Ellington Field.

If I may make a suggestion, I would recommend taking off the home depot lower add on spoiler. I think you have a nice factory lower valance on there. I think the black add on is not flattering. But that is just my opinion. All in all GREAT looking Z. Congrats! Look forward to hearing your impressions when you get the carbs fixed.

Just a quick update. I got my part from Courtesy in ONE DAY!!! Not sure how that is even possible, but I am happy to have it. It was a genuine Nissan part, number the box was: 30620-U7001 It Japan stamped on it, and another word, I will get a picture of it. I will also get a picture of the clutch master cylinder I may replace it with.

Thanks for asking our advice REDLINE. Here is my 'for reference' story. I paid 11,000 for my 1971 240Z. It had a documented 69,879 miles on it when I bought it. I was the 3rd owner and it was garaged since new. The interior was all original, with original gauges. The engine was stock and never been touched except for a pertronix unit and some ceramic MSA headers. It had panasports on it and tokico springs and struts. It drove well enough for a car who had not had a tune up in a long time. It was repainted 15 years ago in the original 901 silver, and it probably could use a respray today to 'freshen it up'. Was my car rust free, yes, all the usual places were rust free, but since then I have found some surface rust on the frame rails that I took care of. And I think I may need to look under my rear spoiler one of these years. so in my mind 11000 is too much for a 73, that is not original in any way. Originality was important to me. Did I pay too much? Maybe, maybe not. I certainly should not have paid more. I think 6.5 to 8k is a good price point if the car is mechanically solid.

wow ChrisS30, you got Inf to not like you. And he likes everybody. We are not here to indulge your fantasy world. How about showing us a picture of your 240Z, I would be willing to bet you do not even have one. You know what, don't, I do not want to encourage you. wait I just read your post all the way to the end. BWA HAHAHA...your doing a right hand swap, putting in an Rebello 3.1 stroker, or an RB26, and you want to go 200mph to freeway race. Why not an LS9 with Naaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwzzzzzz. Do me a favor. Do not breed.

to be honest, I have free towing through my insurance 3 times year, and I really did not want to use my starter that hard. I have about 15-20 traffic lights between where I was and home, and it just seems too much to put it through.

great work, and good choice of product. Those vinyl wrap products are very durable and show very well.

he's gone guys, this is a kid whose day dreams have run unchecked for too long. He just named every cool part he has ever heard of and say, hey will this work, I need to run at 200mph because I loved the road warrior and want to be like mad maxx. he will not post again, because we did not buy into his little fantasy world. If your still reading this, Stay in school, get a degree, make some money, and then if reality still has not set in, and you still want to build your dream hot rod, come and see me with your checkbook, I have a bridge I want to sell you.

I intend to keep the car for a VERY long time, unless you know a buy with a 1973 Porsche 911 RS that wants to trade! hahaha I already ordered a brand new slave cylinder from Courtesy Nissan. I already have the rubber hose and the master cylinder. So I am ready to do a whole rebuild. I need to get pictures of the area. Today before work I ran my hand down and around the rubber hose, and it was dry as a bone, no signs of leaks, I am almost positive the slave died now. The hose actually feels rather smooth and robust. Not dry or fragile at all. I will take a closer look when I get the car in the air.

SHe is beautiful.. good for you! Look forward to your tinkering with her in the future. When you have time, can you back her out and take a side shot? I am thinking of going to 16's one day. THanks!

Took the Z to work today to show a buddy my new console refurb. Well I went to lunch, it was such a nice day, I ate outside and just admired my Z from my table. After leaving I starter her up and drove up the light to head back to work. The car would no go into gear hardly at all, then I pumped the clutch again and noticed it was VERY light almost no resistance. A thought ran into my head.. "OH No! Slave cylinder, get this thing off the road, NOW" I managed to semi force it into gear with what little pressure in the clutch I had left and got it to a nearby strip mall parking lot. From there I knew I was in stuck. THe pedal was completely soft, and upon inspection of my reservoir, I found it was totally dry. I pushed my gal into a nice parking slot and took notice of the large pool of brake fluid on the asphalt. Well from there it was all a Hagerty show of force. I called my road side assistance, and within an hour they were there with an impressive flat bed. They got her on the truck without so much as a nick, and got me home. So now to the question... I have a spare clutch master cylinder, and a spare clutch hose that goes from the firewall to the slave. My money is on the hose, as 39 year old rubber is seldom in great shape. I already called up Courtesy Nissan and ordered a new slave cylinder (which was WAAAY more expensive than black dragon, so I am wondering if theirs is OEM and black dragons is more Beck and Arnley type stuff). So should I do a complete rebuild of the system or just fix what broke? I am a big believer in if it is not broken do not fix it, but also, most of this stuff looks to be orignial equipment. My car just turned 70658 miles. So what do you guys say... do a whole replace or just the part that is bad?

Your options are vastly more abundant if you do not lower it. I cannot speak about the rears fitting. I have never tried to run an 8" wide rim, but with my 7" wide rims, I seem to have plenty of room.

probably not.. You can run mucho tire-o if you do not have the front OEM valances installed.

Hello neighbor, anybody with McQueen in his avatar is okay by me.

Love the fog lights in the ducts of your spook.. more pics please sir! Keep it up!

awesome color choice.. very nice buddy

I am not familiar with any of those kits, but I am familiar with engines. An engine designed to work with a turbo is a very different animal than a engine designed for Normally aspirated running. The turbo engine will have dished pistons, and very low compression. You usually cannot just bolt on a turbo kit to an engine with 9 or 10 to one compressoin.

great googly moogly, that is purdy.