Zedyone_kenobi

NO I am getting that too, but it worked earlier.. I have no idea why. Flickr has been dead reliable in the past. Let me go check my links again.

Blue, great points. and WONDERFUL drawings!! THAnks bud. I made an extensive effort to get the angle of the actuation arm the same as the rod on the Weber. You cannot see it, but right now they are parallel. However, the stroke on the throttle cable rod has always not been ideal. The positions of the cables/push/pull rods on the rods I have played with extensively. I had to give up some mechanical advantage due to the fact that I was trying to balance the spring force with the rod flexing. I have a 3/8" rod coming in. It will replace my 5/16" rod I am using now. I need to take a video of the rod flexing when I touch it.

I got a few more, but you get the gist

There goes my patent hopes! HAHAA I am working on that picture!

I am going to place an order from mcmaster today for my collar. I can take it to a machine shop here at NASA off duty and get some holes drilled. Then I will source a torsional return spring. It will be nice not having a linear spring that attaches to the valve cover. If nothing else, it will clean up the engine bay that much more.

I have not given up totally on the Two rod end configuration. I have a Universal kit from Peirce manifolds coming in that uses a 3/8 steel rod and much beefier connecting hardware than what came in my Redline Weber kit. Pics to follow.

mcmastercarr sells torsional springs by the butt load. And they deliver in like a day.

Okay, I generated this up pretty quickly, but you can get my idea. All of this is available from McMasterCarr You would have to buy the collar, and drill some small holes in it which you would put dowel pins Next you need to make a plate out of some scrap metal. The rod end is already on your manifold. One end of the spring will rest against a dowel on the collar. The other end of the spring will stick into one of the holes in the plate being held by the rod end. The plate between the nuts will need some anti rotation feature, but that is nothing to implement. Opinions?

applying for patent now... www.patentmyideareallyquick.com

EXACTLY.... it would be smooth as silk, and not put any radial load on the rod. It would be compact. I should try to make a prototype...

I had an idea. I am going to run the car until it is up to temp, and then let it run for 15 minutes after. I am going to pull off the valve cover and check clearance. I should be in the 0.010/0.012 range hot, but if I am not, then I know I can probably afford to try a tighter cold lash. The transision is the key as mentioned. There is no way to really get that clearance unless you start the car from cold each time and increase the time and temp in increments, checking the clearance as you go. That would be an interesting data point to have!!! If only I had an entire weekend with nothing to do!

I would recommend a cold lash. It is too hard to get all the valves dead nut perfect hot. I would to 0.008/0.010 cold. That way all the valves are uniform temp and at the very least you get some consistency.

sure... Let me get that, I may already have it.

IF it has two mounting rods, it simply cannot bind. The rod ends usually have 10-20 degrees of angularity build into them, so you will be okay. With two, It can only flex in the middle, like mine does. This can be avoided of course in many ways. You can get a beefy actuation rod (3/8" should do it), or you can pull near a mounting point if you can get the springs and linkages to work out. I have mine in mechanically the worst possible position in the middle, and I exasperate it by using a BEEFy return spring. I am going to get this solved one way or the other. I did some poking around this morning and found out hat my pedal digs into the carpet and I cannot go WOT :stupid::stupid: Making these linkages work is NOT hard, but it takes attention to details and time. Luckily for me, I genuinely LOVE it. I was thinking last night that a torsional spring that wraps around the acuation rod at both ends would be a VERY clean way to get return actuation if you can find a way to mount it to the actuation rod on one end and then fix it on the other end to the intake somewhere.

Thanks for the complement on the fuel rail! it was homemade i started out with a piece of generic aluminum fuel rail. drilled and tapped for AN fittings and the fuel pressure gage brackets were bent on a vice, sanded and painted and drilled from metal scrap

behold the awesomeness of the kaminari manifold! behold the arse reaming price off 699!!! Leon, want to go half-sies

The bar idea is a really, really interesting one! I like the modular nature of it. I would probably take it to a machine shop to get it done exactly how I wanted it. But I will look into that. It opens up so many options for where I can mount things and where I can place return linkages and all. I smell a project...

Thanks mike I thought the cable was to blame at first, but I have it set up that at idle the throttle cable is a tiny bit of slack in it, so the return spring only has to overcome the linkage and not the cable. I would love to run a very light return spring. So blipping the throttle would feel more natural. I need an entire day to mess with this. Speaking of the cable, it feels like it has a LOT of friction in it. I suspect that where the pedal attaches to the cable and pulls through the firewall are not properly lined up giving me more friction than I should have. I will look into that. I will also double check my screws and make sure they are not too tight. You are right, that smooth rod does allow the arms to move a bit Mike. You would think soembody would make a threaded one by now. Guess I could take a stab at that. But the locktite is a great idea, and I think you mentioned that to me over a beer or two, or three. good times. Interesting note. I looked at the universal linkage kits for triple DCOE's on Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits, Accessories and More!. Their kits only come with 2 rod ends. Apparently the quality control at CANNON really sucks. I am going to tackle the linkage all over again sometime in the next week. The weather is perfect for Z's and a few car shows are coming our way. I want to be ready.

I have long hated my Cannon manifold that came with my triple weber kit. The three drilled holes for the rod ends do not line up, so I only used two for my set up. I ran like this for a while, see below well now I have noticed that the precision driveshaft I bought at Mcmastercarr has started to show more slop than it use to. I am applying a load in the worst possible position as I have it mounted now. I really need that third rod end in the middle to react the loads from the return spring and throttle cable. I have given this much thought. The simplest solution would be to just bend the rod end the few thousands of an inch and then install it. Keep this up until I have no binding. But this could be tricky. today I was about to place an order for a new linkage kit from pierce manifolds that has a 3/8" steel shaft versus the 5/16" shaft that is currently on the car. This added beef would resis deflection even more. Or, I could try this. I could drill out the middle hole oversize. then install the middle rod end loose in that hole. Adjust the front and rear rod end so that it is level. This would keep the middle rod end just hanging lose in a hole. then I could apply some JB weld to the hole and in a sense it would fix it in the perfect place. I grow tired of my sticky throttle cable. If I put a super strong spring, the pedal effort gets rediculous, and the shaft flexes far too much. I need to finda way to get that 3rd rod end. how I wish the supplied shaft that came with my kit that worked with the SU linkage would have not been bent.

THANKS! I remember reading that and could not find it for whatever reason. I may have to play with this adjustment.

This is such a great post! I remember reading it last year. I have long wanted to take some of the lash out of my cam adjustment. I run 0.008/0.010 cold and when the engine is cold it is so smooth and quiet, but when it warms up, I get a tappety tap which just drives me nuts. Even though I know these engines have a bit of a noisy valve train. Good stuff.

I knew these L motors have noisy valve trains to some extent, but my L24 was whisper quiet compared to my built L28. Grant you the cam ramp up rates are far greater than the OEM grind on the L24. I just wish there was a way to make it a tad quieter.

Well I am happy to report that after several months of my car being on jack stands I got to get her going and go for a very spirited drive. Well that was so lovely. I forgot how much I love that L28 and how good it feels up top. It also reminded me of several things that I wanted to do that I wrote down during my rally. First was my brakes, and the reason that I had the car up on jack stands. The cars new calipers and wheel cylinders are working fabulously, and I even took the time to put in some ATE super blue and bleed the master cylinder for kicks. I call that a victory. Car stops well enough for now. Pads are bedding in and things feel better each time I stop. Quickly during my drive I remember how crappy my throttle linkage feels. It was fine on the first part of the rally, but somewhere along the way it started to stick, holding at 1700 rpm at idle unless you blip the throttle many many times. But that is another thread. What I want to talk about is VALVE ADJUSTMENTS. Eiji recommends setting the valve lash cold. So I did that after I I had 500 miles on the engine before the rally. Then after the rally I checked the tolerances. They were all DEAD on. I was shocked. I figured they would have crept one direction or another. I am running 0.008/0.010 as everybody else is here. Now having said that. Ever since I have had this engine I thought the valve train was a bit noisy after she warmed up. When I first start up you cannot even hear the valve train. After she is fully warm at lower RPM you can hear it ticking/tapping away. I have gone over what this may be in my head. Forged pistons do not expand as much as cast. My old V8's had piston clap all day long as I ran forged pistons on them. Now my oil after 1000 miles was practically clean. My plugs were a lovely shade of light brown. It will idle all day long and not over heat. I am really NOT worried about the health of the engine, but if I can quiet the valve train down a bit, I would like that. I have read posts here about people running narrower gaps than 0.008/0.010". I am wondering if there is any comments on the validity of that. The gaps increase on engines when they get hot as the hot lash should be 0.010/0.012" if I recall. Anybody try to tighten the valve clearances?

Yes but lotus parts do not buddy! I second the BRZ advice. It is an exceptional handling car.