Zedyone_kenobi

Well what you could do is put a return spring on each carb individually. That way you can eliminate the single return spring. I may look into that. I may pull off a carb to see if I have any buildup of gunk that is making things get sticky.

I have been chasing a sticking throttle on my Webers for a while now. Every sense I got back from the rally actually. I have replaced my 5/16" rod ends with 3/8" rod ends and actuator rod. Very beefy, I am happy with these! I have gone with a new LoKar stainless cable that is smoothly run to the carbs. I was still getting sticking and the effort to push the pedal was HUGE and felt like it was moving through syrup. NOt good. It actually felt like I had a rubber band attached from the pedal to the carbs instead of a wire cable. Humm why could this be? Carb number one was the most likely culprit. When I removed the actuation ball rod ends and just blipped the throttle on one carb at a time, the idle retuned wonderfully. However, if I just push lightly on each throttle lever on each carb (say 5 degrees or so), it stuck there on each carb! I had to manually push it back to idle on each carb. Now these carbs are not old. The nuts on both sides of throttle rod that are attached to the butterflies are not overtight, but they may be off center. I have not checked that. My question is can the internal return spring be easily replaced? Or is it more likely I bent the throttle plates or throttle rods inside each carb? I do not think this could have happened, as I was extra careful to set my throttle stop inside the car to not over rotate the carbs. But that is not really the issue. THe issue I want you weber heads to help me out is, what would cause an individual Weber carb throttle lever to stick open without anything attached to it?

That is a beautiful Z for sure, but I think he is going to be outgunned. I also would have loved to see a Rebello 3.1 L6 motor in there instead of the RB engine. I know he would have given up some HP, but the sound and feel of the L6 may have won him some votes.

I had to trim my console in my 71 a bit, but if you are very careful, you can get away with using the OEM shifter boot and you simply cannot tell it is not from the factory. Take your time and I wish you the best of luck.

Travel'n Man, did they rebuild your OEM tack to OEM specifications. Our cars ignition power goes through the tach on its way to the coil as you know, so replacing the tach with one with modern guts worries me a bit. I will check out your link. THANKS guys for these ideas and link. I like the dremel idea, as I can always add a new dash cap if I have to later. That cost is trivial compared to getting my dashboard refurbished! also can you give me an idea of the cost of the service. EDIT: I just called them up and they were very nice Mitchell. I will pull mine out and have them repair it. As my OEM gage aesthetically is near perfect. Mechanically it just needs some TLC.

Removing my dash cap does not sound... um... fun. But if I do, I know what is going to happen. I am going to start saving up for one of those uber rare uncracked dashes. I know myself too well. But I want my tach to work, so I will give it a go.

You are inspiring me to buy a welder man... seriously!!!

Tried to fit my new linkage on my webers that I got from Authentic Weber Carbs, Manifolds, Conversion Kits, Accessories and More! Come to find out I ordered a kit to fit the right side of the webers instead of the left side! DOH so now I am waiting again for parts.

I have always had a partially sketchy tach. Now let me say that my tach works. Most of the time anyway. If I never rev my car past 5500rpm it would be a perfect tach. However, when I rev past 5500 rpm my tach sort of goes on strike. This was not a problem with my original motor (L24) as I never really pushed it that hard, as there was not really that much power past 6000 to be had. So it was a non issue for as long as I had the car. Below 5500 rpm it is dead reliable and smooth. Now fast forward to a higher revving L28, that likes to live between 3500-6500 rpm and now I have a tach I canont trust beyond 5000 rpm really. So my quandry is this. I have a dash cap on my car. A full cap. Been on there since I bought the car. The prospect of removing a tach with the dash cap on is daunting. As I think the tach came out of the dash toward the driver, not back to the firewall. I could be wrong. I will check the FSM. I have a spare tach in my box of spares, but I have no way of knowing if what I have in the car is a 3 wire or a 4 wire. I have to assume it is the original tach. So my questions are: 1) Has anybody removed a tach by removing it toward the firewall? Not through the steering wheel? 2) Is there a way to test my spare tach for continuity? You see what can happen here is this can go from a simple swap to a case of while I am at its. I may be inspired to pull out the entire dash and get a new one or get mine restored. I have already replaced/restored all my other gages. I really have no time to do that to be honest. Any tach removal stories?

I recommend 10w-30 oil with high ZDDP content. 20w-50 oil is probably overkill. A healthy stock engine, does not need any more than 10/30 oil unless you live in death valley. I always suspected cars with heavy oil were trying to cover up worn bearings. I would take the time to adjust the valves. It is only about an hour job, and you can sleep easy at night knowing that the valves are happy.

Man, congrats are in order John! I would love to just come by and marvel at all the amazing cars you would have. Two of my favorite marques of all time. Datsun and Porsche.

I 100% agree with you sir. How about this: Even more simple. the race is 500 miles, You can only only make 1 pit stop for tires (spec tires) AND fuel. go

Welcome partner.

Leon, I use to judge engineering competitions for high school students. Hypothetical example, They were told to make a vehcile that had to fit inside a 40 oz folgers metal coffee can that would carry an egg for a certain distance. You had to use this rubber band for your power, and everything else was open. Every year, one particular design would emerge as the best 'idea' to get the job done. And various versions of the same idea would be built. Now, if one kid was allowed to build a vehicle that fit inside a 60 oz folgers coffee can and used springs and rubber bands, would that make his idea innovative or is he just cheating? My point is no comparison can be made between the delta wing and other traditional cars, as they were built up differently. It is an apples to oranges comparison.

I am a man of laws and rules. When I was racing as short lived as that was, I had to obey the rules. I am not ready to get behind this car and call it amazingly innovative, as it lives outside the boundaries of what all the other cars do. I am not so much opposed to it as I am opposed to the hype it is getting. I would not call it innovative or ground breaking. It is just simple physics that make it work. Maybe the engineer in me does not see anything that really makes me think, what a ground breaking car. If they could make a car that would go as fast as it does, and get as much mileage as it does, still weight the same as every other LMP2 car on the grid, then that would be a crazy impressive engineering feat. But when you bend the rules and allow a car that weighs half of what the other cars weigh, is it really that amazing that it can do it with less HP and less fuel. Again, I think this is a nifty car that has some pretty out of the box design in it. But racing, as it is now, is not an out of the box game. The rules make the box. Now having said that. If they want to expand the rules to allow other cars to weigh 475 kg, then let the racing begin!!! What bugs me is that any success this car sees will be overhyped and people will go, 'SEE, how great this car is, light cars can go fast as well, and use less fuel'. But that was never an arguement. Naturally a 475 kg car with a smaller engine will go quick and use less gas than a 900 kg car. This is what I would like to see. Make the Delta Wing weigh 900 kg like the rest of the cars must weigh, and allow them to run the same engine output as the rest of the field. Then gentlemen start your engines and race. Let us see how good the design really is when it must conform to racing regulatons. OR.... Reduce the minimum weight of LMP2 cars to 475 kg and see what the chassis builders come up with. Otherwise, what are we comparing really? I just do not see the point of the car other than to be different. If you had a field of 24 Delta wings, would the racing be any different than any other series where all the rules are adhered to. What makes the car stand out is the fact that it is completely outside the rules and the design shows it. If made to fit inside the rules, and all the cars are deltawings, then it is just another spec series.

I say give them a spec series and let them duke it out. But making them mix with other cars that have to play with other rules just seems, silly.

LMP2, that is interesting. I wonder if it has to fit into all the rules of LMP2 (like minimum weight) or if they made some accomodations/exceptions. If they did make concessions I would imagine all the other teams may file protests unless they are ommited from winning points and even still they may complain. If they had to adhere to all the rules, same as anyone else, I welcome the site of them and lets go racing. If not, then no real comparison can be made for a car that is allowed special treatment. EDIT: Never mind, I saw the video now. 417 kg, guess it does not adhere to all of the rules.

What class is the Deltawing going to run in during the 2013 ALMS / Grand Am series race?

I am very interested in this one. My Z is similar year and has some nice parts on it, but if this one fetches north of 13k I will be pleased in knowing around what the market will bring if I ever decide to sell mine.

I am just here to show my support for your work and the art that Eiji creates! He is a magician with these L28's. I hope your love yours as much as I love mine!! Are you going to black out the radiator support like the OEM did?

Welcome my friend! If you need anything just ask around. I have never met finer people than are here on this board.

You are at the point where you need EGT on each cylinder. But the output may not be that useful. We can only tune so many screws. The older Z's have no feedback, so you will have to pick where you want to run. Also, are you tuning for power, or efficiency. While I think that installing EGT's would be cool, I am not sure how much more beneficial it will prove over just a standard Wide band. Now if you could datalog real time and use redlines to shut down the engine incase soemthing bad was happening to one cylinder or another, it would be very useful. I can imagine many situations where it COULD be useful, but the trouble of installing them and monitoring them may prove more work than worth.

I thought you had stripped down your car there for a second Arne! Hey if you have time, it would be awesome to hear your opinion on life with the 911 vs the 240Z. You have had the Porsche long enough to get your vocabulary settled and to do some fixes and get to know the car. What is it like? I would love to know the differences in ownership, feel, community, mechanicals, ease of use, etc. The Z's have a feel to them. You know it. What are the 911's like?

I thought just that Captain. Well sort of. When the manifold was off and I was test fitting the original rod, I had all the rod ends lose without any lock nuts on them at all. I swapped around rod ends, and tried all possible combinations. My middle was still a good bit more than 1/16th of an inch off at least regardless of how lose it was or what order I put them in. It was very discouraging. I can tell you by the looks of the Cannon manifold that it is so cheaply made ZERO finishing or quality control was done. I had to remove flashing from the runners on both sides. The webbing on the outside of the runners shows the sloppy casting. The last hole by #6 cylinder required 'persuasion' for it to sit flush on the gasket. I am not the only person who has had issue with the Cannon Manifold. I get the impression the FET or Kameari are leagues above in quality. The cannon is built to a price point. I was able to get my fore and aft rod end holes drilled (.334" drill) and tapped them with a 3/8-24 tap. The Rod ends are extremely close to parallel with each other and they appear to be perpendicular to the surface of the manifold. When you are only using 2 rod ends, the need for perfection on linearity is not nearly as important. I used a set of calipers to ensure they are sticking up the same height above the manifold within 0.060" of an inch anyway as best as I could measure. When I inserted the 3/8" rod, it barely moves when I apply a load to it. It also spins freely in the rod ends. Also the rod ends supplied with the Weber kit had a metal ball riding in a phenolic 'race'. That plastic bushing if you will had developed some slack in them that was not there when new. They had also become extremely stiff as well. I know that seems like a contradiction, slack but stiff, but that is what they feel like. Sort of like the worst of both worlds. The new rod ends are a different story. They are all stainless and are extremely smooth and of higher quality. The metal on metal of the rod ends and the new actuation rod feels almost lubricated its so smooth. I will attempt to attach the lever arms tomorrow if my new baby boy lets me. He does not give me much free time haha.

Well drat I managed to get an hour of time today to get into the garage and found out my new beefy linkage kit was a bit too beefy. HA. It seems the Cannon manifold has 5/16-24 threads in it. THE rod ends in my new kit use 3/8" threads. I have looked everywhere and it seems that rod ends that accept a 3/8" shaft ONLY come with 3/8" threads. I may have to drill the manifold and tap it to to accept 3/8" threads. Drilling into the manifold is not my idea of fun, but I figure it can be done. and if I mess it up well then I will have to take it off and get it done again anyway. Wish me luck.