Zedyone_kenobi

I think this has merit. I would add this. The people in the race can choose a set of average speeds, have a GT1 class that runs a X. A GT2 class that runs at X + 15 mph, and a GT3 class that runs at X + 30 mph. That way you avoid a procession of slow cars driving by, and passing comes into play. Getting out of the way may put you off your pace, as might passing, or getting caught in traffic. I think you idea has LOTS of merit. Rent the track and have at it.

I have never seen a quote for less than 5k for my car. How are you guys finding people who will paint it for 1200!! Are you doing all the sanding priming and they are just painting. Paint costs about 800 bucks!!

I do not find this to be a fault with the Z. My Z had this exact problem when I first bought it. It was quite bad actually. When I got the SU's rebuilt at Z therapy, It came back with new linkage rods on them. The cars problem were 100% gone. All of the parts were bone stock. Nothing was cut, bent, modified or any other creative bandaid. I am just saying that if the parts are in good non worn out condition, the throttle will be perfectly OEM. I would recommend calling Z therapy and asking them how much it would be for a complete set of new push pull rods with new ends on them I think if you get that, and remove all the slop, you will see your problem goes away. Moral of the story, when the car was new it did not have a sticky throttle, so return it to new.... Or you can get a lokar cable, as it work very well just as Mike said.

no finer evidence will ye recieve...

By any chance do you have a tach for a 71 240Z Or, "and don't laugh", dashboard that is not cracked? do you have an R180 with a 3.90 or 3.54 Gear ratio?

205/55 here as well. It is a great looking tire that clears the front and rear bodywork. I would buy another in a second.

That was darn near poetic buddy, Well said!

No go on dyno day fellahs, Had to pull kid duty on friday. Wife got called into work and I was playing with my little one. I will have to reschedule... Bummer.. but me and my 6 month old had a great day!

Those 71 numbers are for the non emissions cars Blue, as you know the 71 US emissions dizzy equipped ran 5 degrees initial advance.

Blue, get some clay and build you a model. THat is how Peter Brock would do it!

I have scheduled some dyno time on Friday morning to see what my car puts down. I will bring some jets and a timing light with me! Should be fun, but I am dealing with a shop full of Brotatoes who only work on LSX engines and Vipers. Out of curiosity what are your reservations?

Good to meet you DAVE! Great to hear form a TX guy. I may have to swing by to see your ride very soon! I am in League City next to Kemah

My lift is around .480 Guy, with a 274 duration. Maybe more duration would help. Still like I said before, with additives I am fine. I have heard the P79 head is more resistant to detenation... I am enjoying this thing very mucy, and I would buy another Engine from Eiji if I wanted another. But I still have plans to overhaul my stock engine in some way. Maybe I will make it into a screamer...

I was going to play with the springs in my Mallory to make the timing come as late as possible, but even with the heaviest springs, the curves are not that different. But it is in the direction of goodness, so it cannot hurt. My goal is to make the carbs, the head, the cam and the timing all working together to achieve the same goal. In my case that is a huge midrange torque hump with a fall off all the way to 7000 rpm. Everything I have done up to this point is to maximize mid range power. The smaller carbs, the high initial advance on the cam, the selection of a mild cam, etc. It is all about parts working together. It seems this pining issue means I have exceeded a boundary somewhere, but I can fix that with timing, or fuel, or plugs, or even a head gasket change. This is all part of the fun of building the engine and it also adds to the appreciation of how hard it is to build an OEM engine that must be used by an entire country with different fuels, climates, elevations, etc. and still be robust and fun. The more you modify an engine, the more you appreciate how good stock is.

I was going to play with the springs in my Mallory to make the timing come as late as possible, but even with the heaviest springs, the curves are not that different. But it is in the direction of goodness, so it cannot hurt. My goal is to make the carbs, the head, the cam and the timing all working together to achieve the same goal. In my case that is a huge midrange torque hump with a fall off all the way to 7000 rpm. Everything I have done up to this point is to maximize mid range power. The smaller carbs, the high initial advance on the cam, the selection of a mild cam, etc. It is all about parts working together. It seems this pining issue means I have exceeded a boundary somewhere, but I can fix that with timing, or fuel, or plugs, or even a head gasket change. This is all part of the fun of building the engine and it also adds to the appreciation of how hard it is to build an OEM engine that must be used by an entire country with different fuels, climates, elevations, etc. and still be robust and fun. The more you modify an engine, the more you appreciate how good stock is.

Okay, I pulled my build sheet. Carl, this is for you. the L28 stock bore is 86mm, and mine is 86.5mm, not 87mm (Sorry about that, he listed OEM, first then actual, and I cut and past the OEM bore, not actual) I went and looked at the actual Excel sheet Eiji made me with the bore measurements on it, so I am sure about it. Also, A OEM Nissan L28 headgasket was used, as were OEM L28 rods. I am hoping this friday I can get my colder plugs in and if I can find a cooler thermostat.

I will get the exact numbers for you guys since curiosity has been shown. NO worries I know my cam was advanced by a large amount. Remeber that. Eiji told me when my cam came in it had a weird pin location so he had to degree it 6 degrees advanced. Gives great low end, but will probably petter out on the top end a tad. I wanted a midrange engine, so we both agreed to move forward. The huge initial advance was probably the cause for the low clearance piston to valve. Still, I could recam, but that may involve new lashpads and all that as well. I just want to reiterate. My car drives wonderfully, and the power is just great, but I wanted an open talk about sets ups and cam duration and compression, etc. And as usual you guys have answered the mail!

I will get the exact numbers for you guys since curiosity has been shown. NO worries I know my cam was advanced by a large amount. Remeber that. Eiji told me when my cam came in it had a weird pin location so he had to degree it 6 degrees advanced. Gives great low end, but will probably petter out on the top end a tad. I wanted a midrange engine, so we both agreed to move forward. The huge initial advance was probably the cause for the low clearance piston to valve. Still, I could recam, but that may involve new lashpads and all that as well. I just want to reiterate. My car drives wonderfully, and the power is just great, but I wanted an open talk about sets ups and cam duration and compression, etc. And as usual you guys have answered the mail!

This thread is all I could hope for! Such great information for myself and all others that may be looking to build an engine Bravo guys for keeping such splendid useful information here! What a great collection of thoughts!

Well I have the E312 from my orginal L24 still on the original engine. I hate to take those apart. I still want to refresh the OEM engine that came with my car. It was running strong when I pulled it. If you can get the overlap up due to a big cam you can alleviate some of those high pressures for sure. I would not be surprised if you have Zero issues. But let us know if you do.

there is no such thing as too cold in houston.

So running a tigher lash on the intake valve would keep it open a hair longer. That is something to think about. I will try the cooler plugs this weekend. And I have to find a good quality 160 thermostat.

The fuel will evaportate right out of the fuel bowls. There is nothing ot stop it. When I turn my key and let my electric pump prime the carbs, it runs for several seconds before you hear the pump load up indicating its pushing against a dead headed system. I do not currently run a flow through system, but it is in the plans.

Thanks Madkaw, the opinions form you fine fellows are always welcome! I have thought about finding another head a P79 perhaps or something with a bigger combustion chamber and having some serious port work done to it, and then one day swap out my hardware with it. But that would be a bit of an undertaking. I would however get me down to closer to 10:1 and at the same time get me some FLOW...

Leon, well said!! I agree with your assessment. My BP7ES are going in this weekend, but I am not sure it will make that big a difference, but it certainly is in the direction of goodness. I have been wanting to get the engine on a dyno for a while, since it is totally broken in. I just need to find some time. I also echo'ed your opinion about all the variables and knobs that can be turned. Right now the problem is not really that bad. But I am liking the idea of dropping some 1000 octane and playing with timing until I get 'the ideal settings', then try to figure out how much I am losing with 93. According to independent lab reports NOS octane booster increases the octane by right at 1.8-2 points per tank. So figure i start with 93 at about 95 all my pinging stops and the car runs very well with 14 degrees at 900 rpm, and 34 degrees max at 2800 rpm. I have not advanced it beyond that as it starts up, runs and keeps AFR dead nuts on all the time. In fact it runs perfect. This is where my engine build got a bit off track. We wanted to use OEM Datsun L28 flat tops in the build. But we could not get any .005" over bore. OR rather Eiji could not find any and I came up empty as well. But being the impatient person I am I ordered some ROSS forged pistons (completely overkill) that were 0.005" overbore. However they were a few thousands taller. We had to choose smaller lift cam because of this as we had valve clearance, but not the recommended amount. So we put a slightly smaller lift cam in. This is also the source of my extra compression. I think we were shooting for around high 9's or 10:1. Add a taller piston and blame, 10.5+:1 and the need for uber fuel now exists. I do not want to come across as angry or mad. In fact I LOVE how my car runs. It is strooooong. In fact my only real complaint is that I should have bought 45 DCOE's instead of 40's. The purpose of my post was to warn others and to ask now that I have taken this path of high compression, is there anything I can do other than add octane boost or retard timing to ease the situation?