Zedyone_kenobi

Any car that pays homage to our WWII heros makes me tip my hat. Bravo.

eeeewww, that would require drilling them out, tapping them with the correct tap kit and CORRECTLY inserting a new helicoil. May I be so bold as to humbly disagree with you my good man. I have never had any luck with those things and holding torque requires a near perfect installation which has many variables. I know you were only offering an alternate solution. Trust in the good engineering of Datsun. The car was old, but the engineering principles used on bolt strength were VERY well known even in the early 70's. Do not forget we sent men to the moon before the 71 Z even came out. We were pretty smart. I put lots of faith in those old engineers. I have yet to be let down.

me thinks you may be a bit too worried. I am using those captive nuts on my 71 and pushing a strong L28 though it. You will break the rubber mount before a welded in nut on a metal frame breaks. The load is just not that big compared to the yield strength of steel.

Lycoming, Continental.... you sound a lot like my dad who passed away in 2012, who was a certified A&P mechanic and instructor. I get all my anal mechanical tendencies form him. Oil most certainly does cool the engine, ask any 911 owner, who engines are primarily oil cooled supplemented by air. I agree with you. The 185 number I could see I suppose for suspended H20 particles without the benefits of surface tension to keep them bound together, as well as the PCV system. But I would wonder if the PVC system connected to our SU air cleaner was capable creating less than atmospheric in the engine case. Still great thread here full of neat bits of info. For what it is worth I run a 190 degree nissan thermostat in my Z, with a 60/40 water/coolant ratio

As far as an N42 head with flat tops, my engine came home with 10.6:1 compression with N42 and flat tops, and I can tell you the most timing I can run is 30 degrees at max advance without fuel additives. (NOS brand is a viable option BTW). I would like to dial in more advance, but I start to get pinging in 3rd and 4th if I load the engine up at low rpm. My problem is very narrow and usually I do not notice it. But one day I will probably pull the head off and get some work done to it, while I do that I will probably put on a 1.5mm head gasket and drop the compression to 10:1 and be happy with it.

You know the same thing sort of happened to me. I center bolt was not positioned right on my mount so I ordered another one. It happens, but also check you have the cross member and mount installed in the right direction. It makes a difference I think. I will have to dig up my old post. Since you got it back on with a used mount you probably have it installed correctly One more thing, I would not worry about the strength of the bolts. All those bolts really have to hold up is the weight pressing down which is not much at all, as almost life the tail shaft up with your hands with the engine bolted in to its mounts. The engine mounts take up most of the rotational torque as well, and all the transmission mount has to see is the little bit of flexure the engine mounts allow. I would drive without worry.

Okay, Any warm surface will cause water to evaporate faster than say just 70°F ambient air. But why 185. Natually 185 would cause water to evaporate faster than say 170, but why do you say 185 is the cut off point? plain Water will boil at 212, water with coolant even higher. Allowing the oil to reach 212 would guaranty your engine oil is free of water.

bravo Well bought man.. You did good. Now go out and drive that work of art. You will not stop smiling ever. Its been 6 years for me and I love my Z more and more every day

I share your desire sir to have only good things on your feet. It is one area of clothing I will spend money on. A splendid pair of driving mocs are a thing of beauty. Yes, I admit to it. I have a shoe problem.

YOU GUYS CRACK ME UP when I replaced my sending unit, my fuel gage started to read biased low. Do not be surprised if your gage reads high or low. I wish there was a method to correct this - aside from bending the rod.

You guys are awesome By the time I get around to spending more money on the Z this will be an old and well understood mod. My Z's mallory is running so well, I will have a hard time pulling it. Any chance 123 makes this ignition for the 2000 roadster?

The guys at Z therapy are truly top notch. No kidding. You cannot go wrong there. SU's are fantastic carbs. They are very close to set it and forget it. When healthy they can keep a Z purring along for a great long time. Best of luck

won't drive, huge dent in hood, rear wheel wells need to be replaced.... NO way this is worth 8000 dollars. I always find it funny how many people rebuild engines and then 1000 miles later store the car for 20 years. Unless you want a HUGE project, avoid this car. If this car were 2500 I would say got or it, but 8000 dollars you can buy a running driving Z. At least I think you still can.

Installed my 60F8 jets this afternoon after work. Car did not like the mixture ratio. It felt rich, but when the idles screws were adjusted to get the best (read as fastest) idle, the car stumbled in every gear and still had bad popping through the exhaust. Then I installed the 55F9's. Wow, such a small change and what a difference. The car settled into a very smooth idle, I could not make it stumble with clumsy launches or wide open throttle openings or barely applying any gas and letting the clutch out too fast. The car just is just thrilled with this mixture. Now I will say this as well. And this is interesting! While I was putting my jets in, the FedEx truck came by. And dropped off my NOS OEM 68 datsun seat covers. They are just stunning. But with them I ordered 4 new oil filters and 8 new NGK BPR6ES plugs. So after I put in 55F9s in the car I went ahead and installed my new NGK plugs (gapped to .035"). The car had Autolites in it (PUKE!!!) But the way that baby climbs to 6000 rpm is just glorious. It is seamless. Makes me wonder if it was the autolites or the jets. Happy to report that the 2000 feels like a race car now.

Every time I see a Gnose, I start getting very evil thoughts.

That engine shot has my attention... what is that!!

I did email you... or so I thought.

I found a lot of that by researching a bunch of our old DCOE posts blue. I think you and I should write a book one day!

The car had originally 55F8 idle jets. With the aforementioned issues that I attribute to a bit of a lean condition... I tried a leaner jet 50F9 - which should have made things worse, and they did I tried a richer jet 60F9 - which should have made things better, and they did The problem is the F9 runs marginally richer than the F8 given the same fuel orifice per weber documentation: Rich - F6 F12 F9 F8 F11 F13 F2 F4 F5 F7 Fl F3 - Lean So the 50F9 could have been much closer to the 55F8 than I wanted, which makes sense as the results were only slightly worse. Likewise, the 60F9 was probably two many steps to the rich side as I think she is burning a bit rich on throttle application, but I have zero hesitation or stumbling. What I should try is a 55F9 or a 60F8 Oh the joy of this job. Things will be much clearer when I install my sideband Personally, my money is on the 55F9, but I ordered both just to be sure.

UPDATE: Well I managed to find time to pull off the float bowl covers from my Webers. Unfortunately, both floats were adjusted perfectly according to what my weber book says for 45 DCOE 15/16 So I went ahead and changed out the 55F8 idle jets for 50F9. I think this should make all my problems worse. Hopefully I am right. I am more interested in getting applicable results than fixing the problem. What I need is an Innovative LM1 in my roadster. That will happen in July. June is already spent. Anyway, if I am right, I should have crazy popping from my exhaust on deceleration and then also bad off idle performance. If this is the case, then I know lean is my culprit and I can start the process of bringing her back up I have a set of 60F9 jets that are up next. I will report back to this thread when I get my driving review of my 50F9's. Oh also, the threads on the 45 DCOE 15/16's are very different. A 1/16th of a turn makes a difference on these things. Very interesting.

The main venturi is called out in my weber book to be a 38mm for a 45 DCOE 15. I know I have a hotter cam which would need more airflow if the head can supply it adequately. I think on the roadster forum there is a flow bench test of the U20 head. Each barrel of the carbs must feed a full half liter, a whopping 500cc, where as in the L28 I have in the Z each barrel must feed only 466cc go down to a L24 and naturally it drops to 400cc Going to a smaller choke size may increase my sensitivity to a throttle inputs. But I will leave that alone, as the 45 DCOE 15 was made originally on the 1800 BMW sedan. So while engines differ, my hot 2.0 liter should be able to handle it within reason. Now I still need to verify the chokes are in fact 38mm and now some 40mm monsters.

AS luck would have it, I happen to be looking through my Weber carburetors tuning tips and techniques book and it happens to have a cutaway from a DCOE 15/16 and how to check the float level on those particular carbs. Man, the usefulness of books and literature is just staggering in this hobby.

did you say DATA!!! DROOL

With that green paint and those wire wheels, that may be the classiest Z I have ever laid eyes on. I mean I have seen a lot of Zs, but I have never been tempted to call one classy until I saw yours. Sporty, fun, mean, sure, but never, ever once did the term classy come to mind.. until now. Well played sir.

Thanks Blue, I could not remember which ones ran at 1 turn or less and 1 turn or more.... The thread pitch changed at some time. I know the mains are at least close. I will go and pull the jets to see what I have. I need to yank the carbs to at least see what the chokes are. Just did some checking on the Webers. Upon removal of the covers to the progression holes, the butterfly uncovers the first hole the instant you move the throttle, which is EXACTLY how it is suppose to be. I was a bit shocked it was so dead on. Checking the float level, as I learned with my 240Z was critical, so assuming the DCOE 45 was the same as the DCOE 40, I used the Keith Franck float level checker which measures exactly 25mm. Both my carbs float levels are too high by about 3 mm. That may explain why unscrewing the idles past half way makes the car want to die from being do darn rich. First step is to get the floats in the right place. Then I will report back, but I have to find more carb gaskets. Oh this is what she is running. 2000 cc engine Mains: 125 Idle: 55F8 Etube: F9 Air C: 150 The mains and the air corrector look way to close.. but I am not there yet. I would think she would need a bigger main jet. We are talking about 500cc per cylinder. The 55 F8 is a good median choice. I cannot mess with either until the fuel level is perfect though.