Zedyone_kenobi

I was replacing my rear inner control arm bushings this past weekend. When I jacked up the car and dropped the control arms, the spring fell free from the perch and sat in the lower strut spring base (could move about a half inch up and down freely. I am not too worried about this condition, but I was wondering if the spring should sit on some rubber cushions or something. Is the upper mount rubber? I know the bottom is metal base to spring coil. Just curious. I checked the Black dragon site as they have a nice schematic of the rear suspension. I did not see anything for the springs to sit on. Just a curiosity.

UPDATE: With the new inner rear control arm bushings, my faint clunk is still there. Which makes me think its still either in the diff or the tranny. I am running out of mounts to replace! haha Next up is the engine mounts. I am not sure they are actually bad, but I figure I may as well do a refresh of them while I am at it. I think I can knock them out quickly. I just hope I can jack up the engine far enough without unbolting everything.

THanks!

hmm, not sure, but I had a turbo style muffler with my 2.5" all the way back and my MSA header, and it was louder than my ANSA with a resonator at cruise. But at full open the ANSA just wails like an old Ferrari

I think that he is pricing it pretty optimistically, but not that much. If the inside is perfect, and the underside is perfect, then I could see him getting 15000 for this example if its all this clean. Although the gold paint does make me wonder where else shortcuts have been taken. AS the years roll on, the price of the 70-73 Z's will pick up. The 73's may be hampered by the carbs a little, but I see no reason why the 72 would not start picking up speed eventually.

What is a Zapp Z?

I would like to see how they clean up in your booth if its not too much trouble. I have a bead on some other left and right parts now that may clean up as well. I am considering buying both sets just to ensure I can get the best possible parts for my car.

Lets see these pictures. I am circling some piece parts right now and hopefully can come up with some good ones. I think I have a center valance identified, but still need to find dent free left and right ones. Please post up some pics. Yes, i would be willing to trade my front air dam for some good left and right parts

Was the cam properly installed... meaning was its installed point in the advanced or retarded condition? Also, what happens at 4k. Does it sputter, or just fade off, does it surge?

I am in the surrounding Houston Area near clear lake texas

Do you have any pics of this modification Mr. Duff

I am having a heck of a time finding these parts. I thought I had a bite from Hybridz.org but they have not panned out. Does anybody else have these three parts in sandable/paintable condition.

I just went to hybridz and sent him a PM.

Absolutely not. Do not overestimate how much air you actually need for a mostly stock Z car. I am currently running an MSA header with a 2.5" outlet, that stays 2.5" all the way until the rear suspension, then necks down to 2.0" so it can go to my ANSA. I can promise you, I would not pick up any power at all from replacing my 3 feet of 2.0" pipe with 2.5" pipe. By the time the gas reaches the rear of the car, the gas has cooled significantly, and thus has a lower volume given the same mass than when it comes out of the cylinder. So going to a smaller tubing toward the rear of the car would probably actually help keep the velocity of the gas up without effecting back pressure.

true, but still worth it, as I figured there are quite a few 16" rims on this website. I am thinking of ordering some and just storing them

For those who do not know the RE-01 was one of the best autocross tires you could possibly buy a year ago. It had grip in both the wet and dry and was in all ways amazing. They are closing them out. Get these while you can! This is a genuine smoking deal http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Potenza+RE-01R

SUCCESS~!!! yesterday I swapped out my amp/fuel gauge with my spare and joy of joys, it performed flawlessly. My amp needle responds to all inputs form the lights, the horn, etc, and rests beautifully in the middle when off. Also, my glass had come unglued on my old gauge, and now its well adhered to the bezel. So my needles can move uninhibited. My fuel gauge has never worked this well. I love it when things just work. And I am very happy to report, that upon inspection, not a single wire was butchered under my dash... and I left it that way. I used all the factory connections and managed not a single splice. Now I am going to send my clock to www.zclocks.com for refurbishment and I will have a full compliment of functional gauges! Pics to come soon.

I think I have found the correct torques: Somebody please check me as the part descriptions give me a headache! Transverse Link inner bolt (read 23mm end cap bolts) 101 - 116 ft lbs Rear link mount bracket (I think this the two small caps in the rear) 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Front Diff mount member installation bolt (????) 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Front Diff mount member and diff mount insulator installation nut 23.1 - 31.1 ft lbs Gear carrier and diff mount front insulator installation nut 43.4 to 57.8 ft lbs Those last three have me puzzled. If I had to guess. Torque the big 23mm bolts to 101 - 116 torque the differential cross member bolts (4 of them that hold the bushings) to 23.1 to 31.1 torque the small brackets in the rear that hold the bushing to 23.1 to 31.1 Torque the nut that holds the diff isolator to 43.4 to 57.8 IF thats right, then they really need to work on their wording! hahaha

UPDATE.. I have begun round II on this. Yesterday, I jacked up the back of the car and replaced the inner rear control arm bushings (about 2 hours once the car was on jack stands, I work slowly, and carefully). That is a really smooth job once I got the exhaust out of the way. Currently, I have all 4 new bushings in and the for large end cap bolts are hand tight, and the small brackets in the rear are snugged down but not tight, and the diff mount is snugged down but not tight. I am going to fire up the FSM and see if I can find the right order to torque these bolts. From what I have read, it would seem I need to tighten all 8 of the mount bolts first, then lower the car, and tighten the 23mm bolts. I will do a search here and then fire up the FSM. IF this sequence is right, all I need is torques.

update. I just talked with RON at Zclocks and he has agreed to rebuild my factory clock to quartz specs. This I think will be the beginning of a short down time for my car. I am going to put her back on stands and switch out some bushings and mounts, as well as get my carbs redone at Ztherapy.

THanks! I may have to go that route!

Did you get those from Autotrend.com as they have all those there, and I tried to order form them last week, but cannot get a hold of them.

ooops, should have proof read, fair enough

Well I started my guage swapout. I had an extra amp/fuel, and an extra clock, so I decided to get those ready and would swap them out when time permitted. Well inbetween naps of my 1 year old I found some time to get the glove box out and remove my factory clock. It was quite easy with the glove box out of the way. Well the first thing I noticed was the font on the replacement clock was different. This worried me. To make sure I was not wasting time on the clock, I removed the voltmeter from its holster (what, you don’t have a fluke voltmeter as a sidearm) and testing the blue wire which according to the wiring diagram should be a 12v source. Wait, let me back up. There are three things that go into the back of a 1971 clock housing. The light bulb, WHICH JUST PULLS OUT. I must have rotated it about a skillion times before I realized it just pulls out! So don’t cut those nice OEM wires in your dash people, just gently pull out the factory bulb. But I digress. So you have the bulb going into the back of the guage, and you have a small rubber grommet with a black and a blue wire coming out of it. The blue should have 12 volts constantly even with the key out of the car. Which makes sense as the clock would only work when the car is running, which is great if you have an outboard engine in your car and you need to know the hours on it, but otherwise, you want 12v constant. The black is of course a ground. So when I tested my blue wire, it did in fact have 12.6 volts. Yeah. Next step was to make some jumpers to hook up my battery straight to the clock. NO dice, my clock was non functional. I suspect it’s a rather simple fix though. AS all my gears turned smoothly and nothing looked out of place. I may try to replace the lone resistor soldered to the wires to see if that helps, but that’s another day. Next step was to hook up my spare clock, with the slightly different face plate. And curiously, my spare clock had the word “QUARTZ” on the bottom. Remembering that there was a website called www.zclocks.com I looked at that and sure enough, it appears to be one of his. The face plate, and rear case were identical to the ones pictured on the website. When I took it apart, it had a very modern looking plastic case that was white but tranasparent where you could see the clock mechanism. When I hardwared it to the battery, it immediately began to tick. YEAH. Only problem is the backing of the guage has no place to mount it to the chassis like my stock guage. Unless I fabricate an L-bracket and epoxy it to the back, I am not sure what to do. Picture three below shows the lack of any mounting hardware, so any ideas? http://www.zclocks.com/images/portfolio/clock-1.jpg http://www.zclocks.com/images/portfolio/clock-2.jpg http://www.zclocks.com/images/portfolio/clock-3.jpg

Well look into the Konig Rewinds, panasports, or Rota RBR's. I think all of them would compliment your car well.