Zedyone_kenobi

I have not even put on my new rear spoiler. I did take some plastidip and painted the rear spoiler on the car now. It was okay, but the color was off. I was thinking of doing a summer of the race car look, with a wrapped rear spoiler a wrapped hood and some of those nice flat black Koenigs sold by MSA. But not sure now. The car is so clean in the silver. I am now sort of thinking about starting to save for a new coat of paint next year. It is really my cars weakest link. The paint is 5 foot functional, but I would love to see it really shine. I keep pics of all your cars saved Guy! Thanks for the inspiration.

I love stories like this... Bravo to both of you.

Wow guy that is incredible the white really pops standing ovation...you have me strongly considering 16" wheels

Your memory is amazing. Yes, I bought my Z transmission through them. They were very good about helping me after the sale as well.

What size panasports are you running? Love the euro front lip as well. Well we call it a euro lip here in the states.. Guess to you it is just a lip... I will be quiet now

Lets cut to the chase, you build as supremely beautiful car, and for that I stand at attention and salute you sir. But now the time has come to market it and sell it. I watch BAT with daily regularity. A Z car just sold for 27k and it was not as nice as yours, but it was a 240Z, and inherently they get more money than a 280Z. So what to do. I like BAT, I think that when the planets align you get great results. They have had a GLUT of POrsches lately and I see the early Z's taking off to follow them. People who cannot catch the 911 bubble can catch a Z, and you get a better car to boot. I say give BAT a try.

what I would give for a set of those headlight covers.

such beautiful pictures and roads. Your car was the class of the field bud. Love how the red pops against the backdrop of what mother nature can create. And Arne, it is great to hear from you. I have come very close to taking the P car plunge many times. But the Porsche bubble is rising faster than I can catch.

Glamor shots of the Z. I was playing with some LED lights in the cabin and snapping some pics As promised, some photos of the center console

I will get her out in the sun and snap a photo of the center console, when I get a chance sir. I will be happy to. I need recent pic anyway, so it is about time I get that done

black with orange stitching will look amazing. Please post pics when you get them in and on!

Cal buddy, I wish I did have an encyclopedic knowledge of the subject, but I certainly do not. I would wager that the seats frames would be very similar between the 240 and 260, but not sure about the 280. THe good captain here has some valid points. I would look on ebay for some Z seats. All you need is the frame and rails. You can order foam and covers from many places. I would take your time though and budget some cash for the job. I wager to source the frames,rails covers and seats and have them done at good shop, you are looking at 1000 dollars. If you do the upholstery work yourself, about 500. They add up, but think of it this way. You have to touch those seats every single time. WHen people look in your car they are one of the biggest things seen. Investing in seats and good carpet really jazz of a classic car and make it a nice place to be.

Thanks Mike!

Final photo of the seats in the car! I am very pleased. I also took the time to refinish my center console, and tried my hand at some fiberglass work to strengthen it and repair a crack. Not bad for my first go. I should have picked up some of that SEM texturizer to where I filled the tiny crack and sanded it smooth. But I can do that next time I have it off. Car looks and feels fresh and new again.

Oops I can see that now He charged me 400 bucks to remove my old seats covers and put new foam on and install new seat covers. He reinforced the springs and painted all the hardware black. I don't really feel that is outrageous as it probably took hm a couple of hours per seat Only took him one full day so I could have probably done it but just do not have any time anymore it seems. Anyway happy with the results

I used www.interior-innovations.com If I recall with shipping my order from them costs me 295 dollars. That includes the stitching on the seams, the Z logo and adding the buttons on the seats That also includes a leather shifter boot, and a leather matching E brake boot which now all match my seats. All in all,I thought for the quality, everything was well worth it. I will take a pic of them in the car.

This is going to be a beauty for sure! What an amazing build. keep it up. I am jealous for that 3 coil set up.

Thanks for sticking with me Leon!

It sat for 4 months while I worked on the roadster that's all I could figure Usually chevron 93 so its weirdit's weird

May have found another reason I swapped out the hypo jets I have been running with standard 60F9 and the problem completely vanished upon cold start the engine felt smooth and ran very well. She is back to her old self When I torn apart the hypo jet it was badly gunked up with varnish on the small tube that resides inside the jet housing I have them soaking in some carb cleaner now. But that may have been an issue

Well I started the car and it seemed to act the same way, how ever throttle response was much better. I let it just idle there for a few, and it was idling much better. I attribute that to the floats now being perfectly adjusted. I did not do much else, but rev it up a bit, and it seemed to really like the throttle again. I stopped because I noticed my LM1 wide band was not working. WEll that was weird. I had to pull out the instruction manual on that guy. AS it turn out, I had it wired correctly, but when I put my fuse box back through the DAMNED too narrow opening in the center console, I bend a fuse holder back and I had no current going to the wide band.. DOH. Need to get some fresh gas in her and drive her a bit more to see where I am. I am still tempted to try to run 45's on her. My engine is not a crazy build, and I am running 32 chokes in my DCOE 40's. I do wonder what it would do with more air.

OH that is good.... very good!

I agree, I have been going over my notes, and the more I look at this the more a vacuum leaks seems to be the case. It all fits, and is the only explanation that seems feasible. Occams Razor if you will. The rough running is mostly at idle and just barely touching the throttle. When you really goose it, the engine spins up. Again, matching the vacuum leak theory. IF it really is that simple, I am going to slam my hand in a door or something, as it would mean I let my carbs come lose on me and never noticed it. OH THE SHAME... I will report back tonight if this fixes the issue. I really do not want to have to buy more carbs.

Okay been a while since I updated this thread car has run fine here and there but I am having periodic rough running when I start up with pops from the exhaust and intake I went and accurately adjusted the floats on the carbs so that the fuel level was exactly 25 +0/-1 mm. Car still feels unbalanced like it's running on less than 6 cylinders, it is very strange, and the periodic popping is still there at slight throttle (say 1300 rpm steady) input. Car has never acted this way ever. The fuel overpressure started this behavior. My new thought is when I over pressurized the carbs I may have forced some gunk into the idle jet passage feeding the carb The question is how to clean that damn passage if it is in fact dirty. I removed the idle jets and gave them a good spray with some carb cleaner. I have read that you can clean these things with an ultra sonic cleaner. I may be tempted to try that (as I an use them to clean various gun parts as well. The problem HAS to be in the idle circuit as at idle and slight throttle the mains are not even in the picture. Here is another piece to chew on. I have the neoprene floats in mine. Standard practice is to get the floats parallel with the carb housing lid when held vertically. However when I did this, I had fuel levels that were 3-4mm low with my clear plastic gage. I had to make it so that floats pointed toward the carb cover by a noticeable amount. So many variables and so little time... Thoughts? I have been looking for a reason to run some 45's on my car. I wonder if the L28 could handle that and not loose too much Zip in the low and mid range. As drastic as that is, when I run out of ideas, I my last option is to buy THREE MORE webers and see if that clears this up. The price paid is worth knowing if I have a dirty carburetor issue or something else. If new carbs fixes the problem, I can then work on tearing down my old DCOE 40's and either sell them, or keep them as spares. I should also mention that after I shut off the car for the night, I noticed that many of the nuts holding the carbs to the manifold were VERY lose. Having an air leak at the carb/intake interface would cause all of the issues I am describing to a T. I did not fire up the car again to check if tightening those nuts as I was revving my engine in my garage at 8:30 at night for a good 30 minutes. I think people were starting to get upset.

No idea buddy, but I will let you know. I tend to not drive my car without a shirt on I am most thrilled with the new MSA foam I put in them. Seats feel supportive now.