Zedyone_kenobi

Slow down ace.. You are a junior in high school. First is go through the entire car and make sure the brakes are good, and all the electrical is straight. Then make sure you have good rubber on the road. Are all the bushings in good shape, are the fuel lines in great shape. I was a junior in high school once too and I ate, slept, and drank cars. So I know where your mind is. I know you see yourself in totally 'redone' Z with twin turbos cruising your town. But the journey there is not quick nor is it cheap. Some people will say 'yeah baby, twin turbo it'. I am not going to do that, instead I am going to do you a favor. You will be in college soon, what you need is a reliable car to get you through. NO 35+ year old car is in perfect mechanical order when you first get it. Spend some time learning the systems of the car. Fix anything you find out of whack. I know bearings and bushing, and fuses, and wiring is not as sexy as turbos, but they MUST be done... you have to walk before you can run. I know you love the idea of it, but you said you have limited mechanical skills. I would wager that by the time you fix the rest of the car, you goals and aspirations will settle down as well. A well tuned L28 is a great engine for a 240Z. Twin turbos, as flashy as they sound, are a totally custom setup, (read that as crazy expensive). Putting carbs on it was a step in the wrong direction for a turbo setup. I know you see what you want in your head, but I am asking you to calm down and look what is in front of you. If you spend the time to ensure all the items in the car are up to the challenge of more HP, then you will have a great car for the rest of your life.

I was under the impression the 2000GT came out in 1968ish time frame...

Welcome to TEXAS! Great to have another collection of Zs in Northern Old Mexico.

Without a doubt my favorite time in American road racing.. THANKS SO much for these pics. Wonderful amount of history that produced the creme of the crop in American driving talent still to this day.

S60 R looks really stable. Love that AWD. Z looked really good. I am heading to my first real track day with my Z next month...

I am a long time autocrosser and Tire rack supporter. However, a new local tire shop, A Firestone opened up near me. So I brought the Z in for a new set of shoes, since mine were over 10 years old, and I just do not trust them. I installed a set of Bridgestone G019 grips. Not bad by any means, but not nearly sporty enough for my tastes. After talking with the owner he agreed to let me return them for something more sporty that would fit. All I have to pay is mounting and balancing (35 bucks). I cannot tell you how thrilled I am with the ability to talk and negotiate a deal that makes me happy. Its a little strange to get that kind of customer service. Tire rack may be 10% cheaper, (in my case it was a dead heat), but the service after the sale CAN ONLY be accomplished by a local shop. I will be outfitting all three of my vehicles this year with new tires, and I will give this place my business for all of them. What you say is true Arne, you should establish a good relationship with your tire shop, just like you would your butcher, your mailman, or your doctor. It pays dividends.

Those domes look a bit more polished than ZT's usual fare.

Getting back to brakes.. I finished my drum brake install yesterday. Painted the drums and lightly sanded inner bore of the drum where it fits over the hub. also applied some brake grease to that fitting to hopefully prevent galvanic corrosion due to the differing metals. I need to go test drive it when the darn rain lets up. I ordered a set of speed bleeders. I am just too nervous that the mityvac did not get all the air out. Speed bleeders are something I should have invested in a long time ago anyway. Next up are some hawk pads on the front calipers.

Well I just used the coolest tool... I picked up one of these... What a cool tool to use. Beats saying "PRESS", okay "LET UP", okay "PRESS".. Has anybody used one of these before? I have a couple of questions. I pulled the master cylinder down 3 times, and completely flushed the old dirty fluid out, but Never did get a solid stream of liquid from the rear drums. I still got MOSTLY air with a trickle of fluid from both sides of the rear drums. There is absolutely NO way I could have had that much air in the system and stop the car. I think when pulling a vacuum, I am also getting air in from around the nipple and around the threads. The good news is even if I am sucking in air from around the bleed nipple I cannot be introducing more air as long as I hold a vacuum. That is why I love this tool. It is almost impossible to mess up bleeding the brakes.

I was reading this again and noticed that it was mentioned you cannot turn the factory drums. I just had my aluminum drums turned, They came in at 9.015" and 9.005" when the allowable ID is 9.055" Should I be concerned. My car is currently used for only street driving, but I am taking it to a track day in March and want to start autocrossing it.

Just a note, before installing your hose over the nipple, make sure its clean. IF it is dirty or corroded a bit, then it will be hard for the hose to form a tight seal.

It is really to help warm up, I would not worry too much about it. After the car is warm, it makes no difference. But Arne gave you the history, its nothing more than a novelty in Cali.

yes, it does, by design every time you pull it, it moves a lever on the wheel cylinder and ensures the shoes stay in approximately the right position to function properly. You are right esmit208, but a full rear brake upgrade will cost about 800 bucks and while I still have life in my aluminum drums, I will use them. They measured 9.008 and 9.015". Max ID is 9.055, so even after turning, they are still within spec. The chances of me wearing down my rear drums again are close to zero in the limited fun driving I do, so if I feel I need more braking, I will probably go with the toyota 4x4 brake upgrade for the front. Or the front disk upgrade from MSA, which is essentially the same thing.

Rear drums are turned and ready to go back on. Both wheel cylinders look fairly new, so I cleaned them up, applied some lube to the adjustment wheel, and installed my new shoes. I just have to get the new drums measured to be sure they are within the 9.055" max allowable ID, as the parts store was not able to measure it :stupid: I was wondering what people would suggest to put between the aluminum drum and the steel hub to keep it from sticking due to corrosion. Anti seize comes to mind, as does some brake grease, any other suggestions. Paint would work right up until I actually put the drum on the hub when the close fit would scrape all the paint off. I should have this done by wednesday, as my mityvac brake bleeder kit comes in Tuesday. Then its by by old fluid, hello new.

Agreed, they are next. But I know I have plenty of pad on the front. I never knew about the drums..

THere is a trackday coming up in March, that is the ONLY reason I am swapping out all the pads and fluid. I just wanted to be absolutely sure all my stopping bits were in tip top shape. I still had quite a bit of shoe left on my rear brakes when I removed them, but they looked really shiney, also noticed that the car did not want to roll while in neutral. With the driver rear jacked up, and the car in neutral, with the E-brake off, the tire was still VERY hard to turn. I know some dragging of the shoe is normal, but I think I may have had something out of whack.

I have taken on a new project. Decided to totally redo my rear drum brakes. Getting off the rear drum was a bit tough. Lots of convincing needed. I still have the Aluminum Drums. One thing I noticed was that the pads I took off the car were stamped AKEMBORO, I think. I was wondering if these were the stock shoes. My car just turned 70400-ish miles. And I do have relatively new wheel cylinders. The shoes I got are from Japan as well. Kashiyama I think. That was not my question. My question is can I use DOT4 fluid when I currently probably have DOT3. I was going to get some DOT 5 silicone based fluid, but I was not sure if it was compatible. Just curious. So far I have one side done and still need to get both DRUMS turned. I hope I still have some life left. I would like to keep the aluminum drums as long as possible.

THE SU's remind me of the first holley 1850 4 barrel carb. Mechanical primaries, with vacuum secondaries. THe engine will only take what it needs...You can tune it by giving it as much help as you want with spring diaphrams. I guess in SU land, you can adjust the weight of the fluid to control how soon you get it to full open. Such a nice carb design. I have not tried to performance tune mine yet, but I will probably play with air/fuel mix first.

I got it Wednesday jerbear. Thanks so much, you gave me FAR more than I could have ever used! I used the plate from retrosound. The ABS you were kind enough to send me was too thin. I tried to cut it with my dremel, but it vibrated a bit too much to get a smooth straight line.. however, I think if I use a sharp razor blade, I can make a USB plug holder that will look nice in my glove box next to my antenna switch. So I will definitely get some good use out of what you sent me. Thanks again!

You WILL NOT REGRET getting your carbs done by Ztherapy. Not one bit. Really improved my mid and upper RPM,a swell as gave me a rock solid idle. The video spells out exactly how to use the car sync tool. After you get the carbs hooked up double check all your vacuum lines are good. The new SU's are so tight, they respond to the slightest adjustment. Make sure all the vacuum lines are pristine so you give yourself a fighting chance to get those carbs dialed in. I think it took me about 5 minutes to do the job once the engine was warm. After I drive it a few months, I will probably just do a double check, but watch the video several times, and get acquainted with every adjustment screw and its location, it will become like second nature after a while. PS.. I have to add this, DO NOT forget to remove your fuel bowl vent caps... haha

Ask and you shall receive.. Remember, Before: After: Before: After, Notice the new knobs they gave me. Looks very period correct: I consider this mod to be almost a wrap. I think if I get some of those rub on decals from the hobby store, I can duplicate the font for VOL/POWER, and TUNE. Should not bet that hard. I may try that. If I do, then I will update this thread. IF not, then its been fun and I am very happy with the results.

I have to add a continuation to this. Retrosound just sent me a VERY nice package in the mail. The included a new plastic front cover and they included a 70-73 datsun template. They also sent me newer control knobs that really look like they belong in a Datsun. Kudos to great customer service

Hey buddy, I just finished the same paint job, but yours is just a hair better than mine. You did a much better job on the font on the numbers. I did choose the same wheels though haha, they are the closest thing to the 4 spoke ones I could find. What I am the most impressed with is your ability to take the picture. I have not explored that in forza 3 yet. VERY nice lighting. Anyway.. my user name is: relentlesleming I would LOVE to see your car. I will send you mine if you like and we can compare notes. I have her tuned into a pretty respectable D class car now. She is a joy to drive and push hard. If you do mostly graphics, maybe you will like my setup, its pretty tweaked. I do not want to go higher than C class with her though. Want to keep the original engine and not make her unrealistically fast.

HAHA, I am looking to pick up some graphite rewinds and sell my panasports. I like the gunmetal color. So I was trolling for pics, and had to laugh out loud at the panasport weight quoted. Did not even look at the age. I need something to do when the other engineers start rambling. HAHA, we do love to hear ourselves talk.

No way the panasports are 10 lbs for 15x7. They are not heavy, but you are talking forged weights at that point. I have not put them on the scales, but I have picked them up. Definitely did not feel like 10 lbs.