JonnyRock

Yes, it creates a CAD model. However, the model is typically then used to make an accurate ground up model (meaning the scanned model is not your finished product, it instead allows you to make an accurate new model). Unless you have access to a 3D printer, in which case you could effectively print a new part.

Hey guys, My work just picked up a handheld 3D scanner, it's pretty bad arse. I plan on scanning a few Z parts as soon as I bring my Z out of storage and was wondering what you guys think I should scan. The scanner is pretty remarkable, and outputs an actual model of the surface (not a point cloud). I'll then make the .STL files freely available to anyone who wants them. I have no problem with people using them to reproduce and sell parts if they so choose. I'm just excited to play with a new toy and help this community. The scanner has some limitations, it doesn't like reflective or transparent surfaces so those will need to be painted or sprayed with talc. I'm not soliciting anyone to send parts to me. Not yet anyway. So I may not have the part you suggest, but I do have a remarkably original series 1 car. If you're interested in the scanner, here's a link to the scanner website Creaform REVscan

The neglected 'Product Reviews' section of this site has information about a great cover from MSA. Product Review - MSA Gold Technalon Cover

The stories and videos are pretty incredible, it should get more press here in the northern hemisphere I think. However... Sounds like you'd have to jump off the 'global warming denier bandwagon' first. 2010 tied 2005 five as the warmest year in recorded history. Source: http://www.noaanews.noaa.gov/stories2011/20110112_globalstats.html And the hottest 10 years on record in order? 2010 2005 1998 2003 2002 2009 2006 2007 2004 2001 That makes 2001-2010 the hottest decade on record as well. With the data that is readily available and mounting everyday, it's amazing that people still deny global warming is occurring. :stupid: &

Sound Deadener Showdown - easily one of the best sites on the web. Tons of info, and he looks at this type of question from every angle. Check it out.

"GearWrench Flex Combo Ratcheting Wrench Set Metric X-Beam" She loves me!

You've got nothing to worry about by connecting it to the airbox, that's how it's meant to hook-up. Or you can do what esprist said and use a small aftermarket filter. Be sure to then plug the holes on the back of the airbox, as they bypass the filter element.

Again, the fuel system (lines, tank, etc) can stand E10 alright as is. It just shouldn't have to!

And that article explains why all the materials processing engineers are praying for an end to the term "dry fiber" in the automotive aftermarket.

Damn... updated link - http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_view&gallery=project1984toyotacelicaturbo&g=13

*bump* to a busier time of day :-)

Not really an introduction, just an announcement that I'm moving to Santa Rosa, CA! I'm not bringing the Z down till the spring, I'm headed down this weekend. I know there's a good community in the Sacramento area, but is anyone els in the Santa Rosa area?

Here is a link to website that keeps a constantly updated list of E0 (Ethanol-free gasoline) stations in the United States. While most of us run E10 (it's by far the most widely available gas), I know that many of those would prefer to run E0. Pure-gas.org - Ethanol-free gasoline locations I don't want to get into an argument over ethanol (E0/10/15/85) as a fuel, I merely wanted to bring this resource to everyone's attention. Please don't use this thread to wizz and moan about your position on the issue. I have no affiliation with this website, and it is non-commercial.

Many active Oregon users. You're in good company.

Near mint! Yes Carl, that would be interesting to see what he can prove. Maybe I'll give him a call and drop by?

It's a PITA to drop and reinstall the tank, but totally do-able. Just plan on replacing vent lines, as they're likely falling apart after 35 years. Have the car on jack stands and drain the tank first!

Are you going the restored route, or resto-mod? $125k is 45k above the GT-R's MSRP. Methinks he exaggerated the value to you. That one looks bone-stock.

Best get some pictures up here first. Much easier to tell how best to excise the cancer with pics. Good luck.

This got me excited, so I just checked my numbers matching 1970 (production was 2/70.) Chassis Serial: HLS30-01704 Block Serial: L24-4375 Block Casting: 9Y01A So that would be - November 1st, 1969 apparently.

How much is the total bolt kit?

Thanks for all the advice guys, the problem is now fixed. I got a new OEM cylinder from MSA and picked up the BLJ-320 brake line from O'Reilly. Just put on a pair of gloves and used my breaker bar to bend the tube around it without pinching the line. FYI, that line is FROZEN in the old cylinder. It has soaked in PBlaster for hours. I have tried the flare wrenches, vice grips, hit it with the blow torch to expand and break it free. It's not coming out. But it's all good.

Alright guys, I'll be bending new line. I tried everything to get that hard line out of the cylinder, but it's stuck. So today I ordered a new one from MSA.

I don't ALWAYS miss out, I did get a passenger window from you!

Thanks Dave. I have the hard line to do it and I'm sure I could make a serviceable facsimile, but I'd like to pick up the exact Datsun piece if possible.