swflaz

This is probably in the nits and grits category but I want to get the engine and transmission on my 72 to their original colors. On my transmission it looks like the steel adapter plate (assembled you just see a 3/4" wide steel band) at the end of the transmission case has some faded blue on it. Does anyone know if it was originally painted the same Datsun blue as the engine block? As always, any help would be appreciated.

I had the same problem a few months ago. Finally found a guy with a parts car who cut out the hatch sill piece and sent it to me. I had it welded in and it looks great. FWIW

I'll take one as well. 1972z. mfg 12/71. Thanks for your efforts so far. This sounds like a winner.

FWIW, I was able to find a guy with a parts car who cut it out and shipped it to me. Cost was $85. It's welded in now and the install looks great.

I'm in need of the engine compartment metal part that supports the battery. The part that is welded to the engine compartment wall. I've seen one available as an aftermarket part somewhere but can't seem to relocate it. Any help would be appreciated. Ready to go to paint in the next 2-3 weeks. Thanks

Zero Z. Wow, that's a beautifull car, thanks for the photos. My original color was the lime green and I've had the car since '78. Thought it was time for a change but I may have to reconsider.

Thanks for the input guys, that's great. I think that's the yellow I'm going for. Also gives me a color number for the paint guy to match. Great pics.

I'm within 2 weeks of having to finalize on a paint color for my 1972 240z. The original color was the yellow (lime). I want to stay with a factory original color but not that one. I'm leaning toward the 1971 yellow but haven't seen any full size pictures of that color on a car. I've seen one yellow that's pretty dark and another one that's much lighter. Don't know which one is original. Any good pics you can share? PS, I've owned this one since 1978. Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll look into the Eastwood product. I've also used a product called Econorust that does a good job of rust removal as a first step (you have to submerge the item, can't just paint it on). It's good to see more "red" names every day. This site has saved me from taking a lot of wrong turns and I think we should all give something back when we can. End of sermon.

Good thought. Any judges out there??

Regarding the manifold finish survey hls30 ran back in sept: the jet hot process got a lot of votes. My question is whether that could be considered "stock" in an original car show. Looks great. "Real" original would seem to be the rusty crusty cast iron.

I got parts from zed findings and Baddog as suggested. The body man did an excellent welding job and they fit and look great. Driver's side pan turned out to be OK. Thanks again everyone for the great suggestions. swflaz

Justin, thanks for the fuel tank suggestion. I've already sent it out for cleaning and coating. There was minimal rust. The guy put some pieces of chain inside and rattled them around for a while to knock loose any rust paticles then coated the inside with a product simply called Tank Liner. He says he's been using it for 15 years and hasn't had any call backs. Cost was $75 which I considered to be a bargain. I'll let everyone know how the brake lines from classic tube work out in my case. They're about 4 weeks out from shipping.

Thanks for all the good cleaning/plating ideas everyone. Just discovered the classic tubing option today and am now leaning in that direction after thinking about line deterioration after 34 years. Hope I have better luck with fit than Justin apparently did. Yes, I am doing the fuel lines as well.

I've got a handle on cleaning up almost everything in my engine compartment as part of my refurb job on my 72 Z except those lousey looking brake lines. Anyone successfully clean them up? I've seen threads about sanding, steel wool, and Caswell plating kits. I'd really like to do a replate. Anyone tried it on brake lines? I imagine the long skinny nature of the lines would create some problems. Any other good ideas? Desperately seeking help.

BO-56 it is. Thanks webdawg1. Sounds like the next issue is availability and price. Tried to contact them today but seems like they're down for the holiday. Merry Christmas everyone.

Hey guys, I'm looking for help with the flat metal piece that the rear deck lid latches to. It's about 6 inches wide and the width of the rear deck lid. Does anyone know of an aftermarket source for this piece? Or for that matter, an OEM part for sale. My alternative is a flat piece of metal and I'd rather not go there. Thanks in advance for any info.

No, I've not pulled the fenders yet but I definitely will. They look good outside but inside?? Also plan to POR-15 the underside when all the rust I can identify is scrubbed. I had the underside and engine compartment pressure cleaned which makes it easier to see what's going on in the exposed areas (grease and dirt removed).

Arne, that's exactly what happened here. The battery box has significant rust that has progressed downward. Ron, you've got me concerned about the left side now. I'll take a much closer look. Like they say, you can pay me now or pay me later. And later is always more expensive. Thanks for the good input guys. I appreciate the help.

Ron, thanks for the good input. This should save me from a fab job which I'm really not up to myself. Checked the floor pans on Charles O's site and sent an email question to John. On his 280Z rails he says they will fit over the exixting ones.I'm asking him if the same is true for the 240Z. If so, I'll just replace both sides. The driver's side is in pretty good shape. PS, I think I'm ready for an avatar like yours.

Nissanman. That was very helpfull. Thanks for the correction on the radius rod mount and the great photo. You hit the nail on the head. Unfortunately, the answer was the one I feared most. Looks like we need to fab something or, as you say, find a hulk. The passenger side is mostly rusted out and I believe beyond repair. The driver's side is just fine. Guess I need to get to work. Any other thoughts out there? Any parts cars available in Florida? Thank you for the quick and accurate reply.

I'm restoring a 72Z and have a floor part question. I'm replacing the passenger side floor pan. As you know, the floor pan kits come with a metal support on the underside that stops at the toepan. However, there is a wedge shaped metal piece that runs forward from the toepan to a point wher the right front support strut connects. This is rusted out and doesn't seem to be part of the kit. On the driver's side, the original part is all one piece that goes under the floor pan and includes the forward piece I'm talking about. Hope this is not too confusing an explanation. This is not about the front frame rails which are a seperate issue. Thanks ahead of time to all you knowledgeable folks who share info with the rest of the group. PS the wedge shaped portion is about 16 inches long from the toepan forward. Whew.

Hello everybody, I've been checking out your site and it looks like there's some terrific info out there. My car is a 1972 240z that's had an engine rebuild a few years ago. Now, I'm looking to finish the job on the rest of the car. Hope to find some great guidance from all you experienced z meisters. Rodger