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A brief update: I picked up the transmission jack at HF . Other stuff filled most of the day but I managed to get the jack in place and raise the tank with it. Actually got the filler hose and clamp in place. Yeah. then I went to the other end to raise and hook it up. That's when the filler hose came apart and fell back down. Turns out that I failed to raise the jack enough so that it would hold the filler tub hose clamp assembly together. My bad. Anyway, I now know that I can get the filler tube aligned and joined which was my original issue. By now my neck was telling me to take a break so I'll get back to it tomorrow smarter than I was today. Thanks for the advice all. Rodger

Heading to Harbor Freight.☹️

Steve, thanks for staying with the conversation and the Harbor Freight coupon note. I'll be trying to hook up the filler end first this A.M. Failing that it will be off to HF. Rodger

Steve thanks for the comments. Yes, I am sure that the tank is the right size. I have several photos comparing my old one with the new tank. Not sure that I want to go for the trans jack just yet but that may be an alternative. Yes I've lifted the tank until reaches the top. However I've been working mainly with the end opposite the fuel filler end. Getting the fuel filler end in place first may help since that was the hardest to get apart. If there are additional thoughts I'm all ears. Thanks Rodger

To clarify above, the combination of the two metal bands and the mounting bolts are still leaving me 3 o 4 inches shy of being able to connect properly. Hope that helps.

OK after some down time I tried to install the new gas tank from S30. i have spent a couple of days wrestling with this thing. My problem is that I cant get the tank high enough to connect the two tank mounting bolts. It's almost as if they are too short. Obviously they cant be because they were holding up the old tank. Since I'm doing this by myself the scenario is that I'm laying on my back under the car trying to hold the tank up with one hand while trying to attach the mounting bolt with the other. It's not working. I've got a small wheeled dolly under the tank with some 2x6s stacked on it so I'm not having to lift the tank all the way off the ground every attempt. Any ideas from some of you smart folks will be appreciated. Rodger

CanTechZ thanks for your post and introducing me to your amazing re-restoration posts. I just spent a couple of hours looking through all of them. Great insights and many useful photos. Looks like we had similar experiences with the fuel tank and filler hose connection.

Be patient. Good advice. Too busy yesterday but got back to it this morning. BTW I did get the pics from Harbor Freight. They worked great. Kept working them gently around where the filler hose meets the gas tank using WD 40 with it's straw for a lubricant. As soon as I let the tank down a bit further and pushed it to the side it popped loose from the filler hose. Now lets see, reassembly is just reversing what you did to take it apart, right? Great video on tank cleaning by the way. Lol. Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone. I'll probably start a new thread soon on my reassembly efforts with the new gas tank.

Ha, fantastic. Thanks Steve.

Thanks Guys, some excellent advice on tools, approach and lubricants. I'll get on it tomorrow and post some feedback on how it goes. Thank you.

I am replacing my gas tank (rust issues) with a new one from S30. I have everything unhooked but the main filler hose that is connected to the tank. I've used slip joint plies that won't budge it and also gentle heating with a heat gun. The tank has been empty for months and i blew a bunch of air through it first. Also afraid that if I get the rubber too soft I might just deform it with the pliers. It looks like new main filler hoses are going for about 125 to 175 dollars so I want to avoid that. Right now the tank is just hanging loose under the car on a support I've set up. Any ideas are welcomed.

I agree. In spite of my overall frustration with the order it was a class move on their part. Rodger

After exchanging emails several times with Chris at s30 it was determined that the initial gas tank shipment was lost. They finally resent it about a week ago and now they estimate that it should arrive the first week of May (per Chris in today's email). Twelve weeks after my initial order. It's a good thing i wasn't in a big hurry. They say they have added the door rubber strips and emergency cable to make up for the inconvenience. I'm out of town for two weeks starting tomorrow. I'll post an update if/when this thing shows up. Rodger

Update to this thread is that Chris at s30 has responded. He said I should have received the tank long ago, checking the warehouse to se what happened. shipment is insured. Fingers crossed.

To SteveJ , unfortunately i have to agree with your language joke as being right on. There is another one about two Americans visiting England and having trouble understanding the locals. They finally said to the person "we don't speak English, we're from America". And so it goes.

THANKS, dutchzcarguy . I spoke to Chris a couple of months ago and his English is fine. The person answering the phone was most likely an office person expecting a call from a local .

Thanks for the suggestions. It looks like i got thru with : Chris@s30.world. Now waiting to see what they say.

Dealt not delt , duh.

Based on favorable comments here about reproduction early Z gas tanks from J30 I ordered one several weeks ago. I actually spoke with Chris there and we agreed that I was selecting the correct one for my 72 (11/71) car. he said at the time the shipping should be about 2 and a half weeks. It has now been twice that long and i have no communication from them and no parts and yes, the credit card payment was processed . I have called but of course the person answering speaks Dutch so that was unsuccessful. Also, my email was retuned as undeliverable. SO, can anyone who has delt with them help me break this logjam so we can connect? Any help is much appreciated.

Actually, I had considered that hole saw idea as a possibility since the metal around that hole is solid. Nice to get some confirmation of that approach. Why not give it a try?

I'll give it a try minus the rubber bits, thanks.

Wow that is really effective. Appreciate the info. (slow to respond since i was out of town for a while). Thanks, Richie G.

If you were reading the service manual last night I can recommend some good books. Just kidding. Sounds like a good idea. Let's see where it goes. I'm not aware of a form like you are suggesting that already exists but my experience level here is not as deep as other posters.

Per suggestions from Patcon and grannynot I've pulled up some of the floor deadening material around the hole in the drivers side floor pan. Most of it came up readily with the help of a large flat blade screwdriver and a stiff bladed putty knife. There was no rust where the tar material was still firmly attached to the floor but in all areas where there was any separation there was some rust. I went over the area with a worn down wire wheel on my Dremel which cleaned it up pretty nicely. It looks like the main problem is still with the yellow painted patch where the pencil was inserted in the first photo. Attached is a progress photo. Lighting is not the best in that small space. Will continue until all is removed. Just wanted to post an update for anyone else looking at this situation themselves. More spaces left to uncover. To be continued.

Thanks grannyknot, didn't realize that that was the case. Hate to lose the sound deadener but I suspect you are correct as to it being a source of current/future rust problems. Trying to look on the bright side, I'm not just losing sound deadener, I'm gaining another project!!! Comment is much appreciated. Working on bumpers right now but will try and post what I find in a bit.