Weasel73240Z

I saw this set of ventilated service doors for sale on eBay. I'm wondering if these are a factory option? I've never seen them before so I assume somebody fabricated them but they look really well made. Considering the occasional under-hood heat issues, they may be a good idea.

One mans misfortune, is another's gain. Life goes on, right JimmyZ.

I've finally put up a few pics of the Z. http://theweaselworld.blogspot.com/

Welcome aboard, Patrick. You'll find just about anything you need to know about your car by using the search function in this forum. Enjoy the Z.

Nice work. One question, what did you fill the holes that were left behind when you removed the side moulding with, solder or body filler?

I am rebuilding, as opposed to buying new, based mostly on how few (25,800) miles the car has on it. Sure, all new would be nice, but I don't think its always necessary, and my budget isn't unlimited ($10 for a rebuild kit/$100 for a new master cylinder). As far as going larger, I would imagine the stock 7/8" master cylinder is plenty for a 2,200 lb. car.

Thanks Nissanman, a little air pressure and "pop", the secondary come right out.

I have removed the stop bolts. I thought air pressure might be the way to go, thanks for confirming.

I'm trying to dis-assemble my master cylinder for a re-build. I've removed the primary pushrod, but I can't get the secondary pushrod to come out. Anybody know any tricks to get the secondary rod out? Thanks in advance for any help.

Sorry to hijack the thread, this was supposed to be a new topic but I screwed up, my bad.

I'm trying to dis-assemble my master cylinder for a re-build. I've removed the primary pushrod, but I can't get the secondary pushrod to come out. Anybody know any tricks to get the secondary rod out? Thanks in advance for any help.

Mohamed, You have nothing to apologize for. And that was a really weak apology, Salty. Tolerance, my friend, for all people, cultures and languages,you should learn about it. Nice to hear from the Middle East, Mohamed. Paul

This is a mistake I'll never make again. I just painted my engine compartment, and before I did, I took all of the fasteners and everything else on the firewall and inner fenders off. I put everything (except the rubber, plastics and electrical stuff) into enamel reducer, figured I'd get everything really clean before I put everything back together. So at the end of the night, I put the fasteners (and the enamel reducer) into my cleaning tray. Thought I'd let them dry off in the tray. The tray I usually only use with mineral spirits. You probably know where this story is going. I get home from work yesterday, and go out to work, and I find my cleaning tray melted to my table, and my fasteners all melted into a ball of liquified plastic tray. I spent the next 2 hrs. cleaning off the fasteners, and soaking them in clean reducer. Fortunately, I got them all clean, and didn't lose anything. Learn from my big screw up folks, and be careful what you leave enamel reducer, and more importantly your fasteners, soaking in.:beard:

Rust, look for it everywhere. Pay special attention to the frame rails, firewall, doglegs, rockers, etc. Search this forum, there tons of info here. Zhome.com also has excellent info on buying a Z.

I think, because the underside of the car isn't "in" an electrolyte, a zinc on the unibody for instance, would only protect the metal in the direct area that the anode is attached too. Even in an electrolyte solution, it takes very specific conditions (i.e. a certain pH level for the electrolyte) for cathodic protection to work. I think there are too many variables if the anode is exposed to air and different weather conditions. Plus, if it could work, and I'm still not sure it could, you would probably need hundreds of individual anodes to protect the underside of a car. And the last thing any of us want to do, is add weight to our Z.

Yeah, I'm not sure we learned anything Z related, but whatever, gave us something to talk about.

Good stuff Bob. But sacrificial anodes do have a place outside of fulltime "wet" environments. And they can serve a purpose even when dissimilarity of metals (i.e. based on the metals ranking on the "scale of nobility") is not an issue. Note - I didn't write this, I cut and paste this from an industry website. If anyone other than Bob and I care...... Reinforcement in concrete is cathodically protected by galvanically connecting a sacrificial anode, such as a zinc or zinc alloy anode, to the reinforcement, and contacting the anode with an electrolyte solution having a pH which is maintained sufficiently high for corrosion of the anode to occur, and for passive film formation on the anode to be avoided. The pH of the electrolyte is preferably at least 0.2 units, and preferably from 0.5 units to more than 1.0 units, above the pH value at which passivity of the anode would occur. The electrolyte may be for example sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide but is preferably lithium hydroxide which also acts as an alkali-silica reaction inhibitor. Same basic idea, but instead of seawater, the electrolyte is part of the concrete mix (I think they would use potassium hydroxide). What a great subject, if I ever tried to talk about this on my softball website, I'd be blackballed.