TomoHawk

OK, so I've built the corrector box (refer to the attached schematic) and when you plug it in series with the Coolant sensor, it works as you'd expect. You can even tell that the engine runs (or sounds) differently as you fool with the switch and potentiometer. Be mindful that this device is intended to be used to see how much your ECU electronics may have drifted over the years. So should you be using a sniffer to find out if, and how much drift there is, or how you otherwise determine that? I suppose you could use the old seat-of-the-pants method, but since that is so imprecise, any adjustments you'd make would probably be hit-or-miss. "Disclaimer" Also, please be aware that this is what you'd call a "very advanced" technique, which is not for anyone that is fully knowledgeable about the Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection system used on the L28E engine. Discussions?

Yeah, it's kinda like the Chinese picture-instructions for assembling furniture. You can be sure if you're supposed to insert a screw into Hole A, or screw-up Hole A...

ou can find them on eBay occasionally, but you have to be patient to get some nice ones. Mine (driver's side) keep falling down. They seem to stretch sideways or the hooks on the doorpull plate gets worn. Is there a trick to keeping them hooked to the door pull fitting, besides a dab of glue?

According to the 1978 wiring diagram, the blue wire on the coil goes to the tachometer, ignition box, and the ECU Pin 1, and the Black-white wire goes to the ignition box and the battery (12V, via the ignition relay system.) I confirmed it using a test light.

I think this guy can help you: Rod's datsun parts San Jose, Ca Office phone: 408-448-3277 Office fax: 408-723-0485 URL: Welcome to Rods Datsun Parts Toll Free: 888-257-7773

Do you mean the bypass fitting that goes to the Aux. Air Valve? If you have the required attachment bolts, you could probably make one up. You didn't mention the year of the car/engine.

Here is the diagram you mentioned: [ATTACH=CONFIG]63429[/ATTACH]

So far, all I did was make a mounting plate and bolt it to the bottom screw on the coil bracket. I also bought some ring terminals and female blade connectors. Then I swapped in the MSD Blaster 2 coil I just got. The engine seems satisfied with it, BTW. I went to the AP store to get a coil condenser, but they are NLA? I will try the new coil for a few days, then hook up the HEI module.

Most of the write-ups I have seen are for the 240Z distributor swap or something else, like a general description, but none specific to the L28E engine.

Thanks Sarah. I forgot about the ECU wire. It's a black wire that connects to pin 1 on the ECU, but I can't tell which black wire.

-I was going to start cutting the wires and one thing hit me: what to do with the current connections to the coil. The ignition coil has a battery connection (he + pole) and the (- pole) goes to the ignition box, or in this case, the GM ignition module. It looks like if you disconnect the OE ignition box, you can just connect the GM module to the coil, leaving the other wires connected, unless you want to remove only the (-) one and wrap for in case you want to restore it back one day.

You don't need a professional to clean up and polish those wheels. You just need some fine steel wool, some buffing supplies and a few hours (and a few beers) for each.

Something seems to be funny with my AAR, probably. The engine doesn't idle-down after a minute, and after driving for a short time, the idle is up to 1500 in neutral. I even plugged the AAR tube into intake manifold.

When you install the GM ignition module, what do you do with the wires already connected to the coil? I know you should disconnect the OE ignition box.

There is a recent thread about installing a GM HEI ignition module into the '78. People have reported success with it, and the OE ignition box is no longer needed. It's cheap enough you can buy lotsa spares for what the OE ignition box costs.

I had a similar problem once. The engine would stall at a stop sign. The distributor pickup gap was too big.

what are "emissions"??? I know what the gas tank is.

On my 280Z, There is a small bundle of wires behind the passenger seat, by the door, that does under the rear deck to the rear lights and such. Right now the wires are exposed so you can see them if you tilt the seat forward, and it is held in place with something that looks like wide duct tape. Is that correct? I had a foot-long piece of plastic wire loom, so I put it on there so I don't have to look at the wires temporarily, but it's still not too pretty. I was thinking that a piece of carpet should hang down from the front of the luggage rail to cover the exposed metal of the body and those wires? thxZ

I finished stripping the undercoating of the hood and painting it. It looks much nicer how, but the rubber seal over the radiator is marring the paint. At least the engine area is much more clean and bright. If only polishing all that shiny stuff was easy to do.

There is a much easier way to block off the idle air. You simply loosen the two screws on the metal connection elbow on the throttle, slip a piece of card in there, tighten. There is no need to crush any hoses.

What do you mean by other AARs? A new one? The one I have is only a few years old, and ought to be working. I had checked it on the workbench too.

It happens even in august, when the ambient temperature is 80+. I'm going to try a thermal wrap, unsightly as it might look, to see if it has a positive effect.

I disagree. The AAR will cool down and open almost immediately if you turn off the power, or faster if it has cooling air. The block with the coolant circuit inside is needed to keep the AAR closed while driving. Otherwise it will cool and open a little while driving.

Higuys, I was thinking about the AAR and that it opens up as you drive so you end up with high idle even after driving a while, then while waiting at a stoplight, the engine slows down to the warm running speed. So I thought of two questions so far: 1- what kind of material could you use for thermal insulation of the AAR? 2- what would you wrap or cover so the heater stays 'hot?' and the shutter inside stays closed? For the insulating material, I though that you might use a header/exhaust wrap, which should be available at an AP store. And that part you insulate should be the horizontal, heater tube. Again, the only alternative that I think would work would be a a valve, either electrically-controlled, or manual.

Jey, sorry for the delay, but I've tried a couple spark plug ends, and they were all too small to allow the wire to the bend and the eyelet connectors to fit on the threaded stud. I tried only spark plug boots from a car (full-size cars) so I'm wondering if there is some thin truck maybe?g like a large spark plug boot? from a truck maybe?