TomoHawk

rebirth yeah-- But in the wrong direction.

Dude-- You should go to the Ppioneer website and download the owner's manual. that simple.

a rotary saw(dremel) worked best for me. then file/sand the edges to suit. Usually on the modern radios, one power wire is for the amps & receiver, the other for clock/memory. Memory wire being always HOT, but low current (1 amp). read your info papers, it should tell you what you need.

the receiver ion my 290Z is connected to the factory plug, but I could only figure out the one wire to the RH speaker. It might be easier to just run speaker wires straight from the receiver, and I think you can get power off the factury plug. Don't bother with the radio unless you have everything else working first.

Got some bad news, dudes.... I took my chrome pieces over to the car ( at body shop) and compared it to the ones on the car. MUCH LONGER! BUT, the body shop guys "said" it was normal, and that you need to remove the plastic filler plugs on the ends, trim to length, then replace the plugs. I assumed they would be the same length, since you order them for each series car. Still need to find out which aftermarket rubber will fit, tho.

No you don't, Ed.... It would make you cry

Nice moustache bar kats. Good job remarking.

Hey guys.... Can we get this discussion back on topic? You can talk physics, but keep it related to the CAI stuff. thx. . . . . (same to you...) :classic:

the CAI works with the intake, etc. so the air flows more freely- hence the deeper dound. It also depends on a free-flowing take and the rest. the sharp bends in the intake and etc. slow the flow and increase the pitch. :disappoin

So then would you calculate the size of the tube to go with the area of the exhaust port(s)? You gotta avoid constrictions for free flow.

When you plan the tube, make sure the inlet is someplace where you get COLD AIR, like NOT behind the radiator. Most cars get the cold air from inside the fender or behind the headlights, so keep that in mind. Don't go to "just any" muffler shop! You need to find a muffler shop that can bend the tubing with a mandrel bender; most use a crush-bender, which puts constriction on the bend, and it looks crappy. Then the exhaust guy could bend the tube to fit under the hood & around any stuff to go where it should.

You got to be kidding! That's almost double! You must be in a really bad area, or they think you'll drive it like an lunatic! Where do you park it?

After removing the lock, cover the hole with a flap and just reach in with your finger to push the latch arm and unlock. I replace my lock with a trunk lock from an MGA. Looks much better and has a finger pull.

I bet the backing plate was just cut presicely to fit around the caliper. Maybe grind off any projections, too. The caliper bracket should fit without removing the backing plate. Unless the caliper was attached to the backing plate??

On my car the screws just go through the plastic. No clips or anything, and they hold perfectly and tightly.

You guys must be referring to a different model than I'm thinking of. On a 280Z, the taillight bulb covers are screwed into the finisher panel directly, without any backup clips, and it is attached along the top by barbed rivets.

Since I never brake & change the heater at the same time, it probably won't make a difference if I removethe vacuum bottle. Yes, I had an a/c shop removethe pump. I still have the evaporator in there. I'll get to it one day. Also, I don't think blocking the side vents on the splitter changed the flow- the fan just seems to go faster on a/c mode. Removing the evaporator should make a little difference tho. good thoughts tho. thx

When I removed my a/c components, I just left the wiring intact, althought I did remove the a/c snap-switch and cut the wire on that ( I think it was blue). No difference in the way it works, but I seem to get more air flow from the center vents when in a/c mode. Oh- I blocked off the side outlets from the center splitter, and removed the hoses. I think I will try to plumb the side vents to the footwell air underneath. I'm only interested in fresh air flow from the side vents. I am still ilnterested in why the vacuum "solenoid" are there and how they work. It would be nice to remove those and even the bottle, if possible.

Darn, I think mine is either tarred into place or hardened from age. Either way, I think mine isn't any good. :disappoin

Mine had the factory a/c, but I removed it all. I'm more interested in a control that will click into the detents for the different functions.

It's not how itlooks, but more like where the detents for the different functions are. You get used to the approximate position, but when you move the lever, it should catch in the detent. Otherwise you might not turn on that function. Otherwise, I think the 260s are the same as the 280s- at least the later 260s.

The vinyl-covered panels attach to the inside of the hatch with screws. These screws are like flat-head wood screws with a slight crown on the head. Colors differ0- probably same as the finisher. The plastic panel on the inside covering the taillights is attached along the top with plastic, barbed tivets and screws for the two covers over the two taillights. The salesman may have been referring to the wrong panel.

While I would refer to a dedicated text on the fuel injection system, I would expect the FSM to have a certain amount of detail to those things that are unique to the Datsun- like the door moulding removal & install. Even if it just says to pry it off carefully to remove, and hammer on carefully to install. Same for the TPS switch ( how to adjust). Like Carl says, you gotta have some aptitude for most general stuff. Until I come on some other books, I will need to rely more heavily on what reference material I do have.

the nest wiring diagram I found was the one from Mitchell's. It looks like i will have many books & such for all the things I will need to repair & refurbish & calibrate.

Can you tell us, roughly, what those run? thx