TomoHawk

If you would ask people on the street for a $2 bill, most will say, "what's that?" or "You can't get any of those." Maybe you have a few around. I have 3 of those for collecting, as well as some rare $1 and some $2 coins. the only place you can find the $2 bills lately is at a bank. Thats why I I say they don't exist. Nobody bothered to ask what I meant by that. I'm the only person around here to ask the questions others are afraid to ask. If nobody asks those questions, no one will ever know what's better, what's not, what will work, or won't, or whatever.

$2. Such stuff from Mr. Scanlon that he doesn't even know there's no such thing as a $2 bill. He is totally misinformed, and has no ideas of the capabilites of others. Nor does he care to find out or even ASK. have a nice day.

No. I only mean the Booster and the M.C, as those go together. If I was rebuilding the rear brakes I'd so the rear cylinders. You can do all the parts like you were suggesting, if you wish.

I know you were referring to the booster unit. I suggested the upgrade to the ZX unit, but I forgot to mention the master cylinder AND the booster both, BECAUSE: When I do the brake booster, I replace both at the same time. It looks like Beandip and others only make reactive repairs, which means ONLY replacing the booster and using the same OLD worn-out master cylinder. This misunderstanding creates a problem. Instead of presuming YOU have the only reasonable comments why don't you ask others to clarify their statement when you don't understand??:stupid:

Why do you disagree with 240Zx's suggestion, Beandip?

The reason the reubber dried out is because the natural oils in the rubber dried out. Since oil dries (really slow) it takees that many years to happen, and it's very difficult to get the oil back in properly. It would probably take you 30 years to do that (same time it took to dry out). But you can probably get the surface to look & feel good, if that's your goal. But that's just the reason they sell all those miracle silicone spray dressings.

If you're replacing, why not upgrade to the ZX m.c.? It has a larger bore, so you get more pressure. thx

What about your insurance premiums? I got a ticket once (1986) and my insurance went up some, but by the time it was back to 'normal, ' I figured I had pad the equivalent of the fine itself. I have a couple friends that car cops, and they'll joke about speed tickets, but they'll also tell me that if they catch ME, I'll get cited just like anybody else. the same guys would do their best to protect you, too.

Thanks EZZZ, I'll have to get out my old book on vulcanizing to see if you can re-vulcanize a rubber hose ( depending on the type) to hold a shape. I haven't fooled with that stuff since the late80s.

Metal sounds good, but copper is out, so stainless is probably the only one that isn't reactive. How well does thin stainless tube bend?

NO! I'm referring to the wheels Mr. Ricklandia had pictured. OK? I followed your link, and it has a lot of interesting data, thanks. How did you manage to get mixed up into this? Also, does anybody know what the availability for the Appliance wire wheels will be like in about a year? I'll probably want to buy some about then. I'm using the 6-spoke ZX wheels now. thx

Those wheels look so much like real knock-off wheels that you might not like hearing the suggestion that it is a bolt-on, either with the bolt-on adapter or just a plain bolt-on wheel with the faux knock-off. I have seen both kinds. American Racing has both for the Z. Carl- Right, chrome lugnuts, or whatever you want to call them. You have to look close, and at any speed over 0 MPH, you wouldn't be able to see them (which is good). 240ZX- Obviously, your comment suggests you've never seen wheels with 5 or 6 or more lugnuts holding them on to suggest all wheels have 4 bolts. And SOME kinds of wheels have NO lugnuts!

No offense to Ricklandia, but there are definitely 4 boltheads in there, you have to look close. Are the knockoffs functional? thx

Those are nice. Do I see some bolts between the spokes?

Stop what, Tom, asking questions that nobody else has asked? thx

At least he says he's aware that he needs to give attention to the whole thing to get to his goal. I wouldn't be surprised if there were some people who were staring at the engine, or some other thing, wondering why something wasn't working right, when all they really need is a little can of DeOxit 100. thx

Which engine is that? The OEM spec is for 8.8:1 compression ( on the L28). Do you think your mods give more hp than the stock engine? Which car is that? thx

I see a lot of stuff about bent hoses, like for the gas tank. Is there a way you can form te hoses in a desired shap so they stay bent, or does the manufacturer have to do it at the factory. Maybe bending it with heat in a wood mold of some kind, then letting it cool? Solvents are out, obviously. I haven't fooled with vulcanizing in a few years. thx

No wiire spoked wheels?

Then why didn't Mrcow say he was aware of it in his original question? He seemed to be so interested in just the mechanicals (header, exhaust, cam), that one might presume his electricals were intact and perfect. He even said he was going to spend a LOT of money on the rebuild, but (none?) on the electricals.

You don't seem to be seeing the whole picture. the wiring AND connectors are as important to making horsepower as a turbo or any other device. Even a perfectly new engine won't go with bad wiring. The entire engine SYSTEM must be working well for any modifications to work well. Even the stock engine won't work well, if your sensors AND wiring AND connectors aren't up to snuff. The original question was asking for suggestions for improvements. Adding a turbo or any other device won't do much good with a bad ( engine) electrical system. OK...... go take off all the wiring, Beandip, and see how much horsepower you get with a turbo, or stroker or even if the thing will start. Even one of those Rebello engines will totally suck on horsepower will an (old) electrical system.

If you use this site as your homepage, then you might see many. if any, new posts, if you start and restart your web browser often during the day. I usually check in the morning (8am), after working(1pm) and aevening (after 6). That way you see new stuff every time, and don't get depressed because you feel like "nothing is happening." :cheeky:

it would be good to know what you did to mount the seats. Di you modify the mounts? thx

Before you start taking the engine out, or while you ARE taking it out, you better look at the wiring and connectors, if the connectors aren't perectly clean & shiny and the wires conduting perfect with no resistance, your money won't be of much help. The engine depends on the ECU doing its job perfectly, and with the old wiring ( and sensors, and AFM, etc.) and connectors, the ECU won't be getting the correct information to produce the right fuel mix or probably even put out the right signals to the injectors, etc. to make those horses you are looking for. Get yourself a good repair manual and/or FSM, and the "280Z fuel injection 'Book": '280Z fuel Injection Book I've been working on the wiring & stuff for about two years (summers) when I get time.

That's interesting. What kind(s) of variable do you think are involved? brake pad area? rotor diameter? Pad material? thx