TomoHawk

On later models, the R/L wire is the ground leg of the instrument lamps. G/W is the power leg.

The reason I am concerned is because at a recent regional meet ( about 40 miles south of Indianapolis, IN) there was a poker run through the countrtyside where a car (a 350Z) was going too fast and rolled over. 26th- I don't have the ZCCA convention handbook.

While you have it, it would be a great thing to the rest of us if you could get a mold made of it to make (or splash?) copies in glass or CF or even plastic. We need to start making new molds for the rarer parts before they are all gone entirely. thxZ

It seems that many people think of a poker run as something more like a WRC rally, where you drive along at about 60-80 MPH ( or more!) on closed or country roads to the different stops. I've been on poker runs in a powerboat, sailboat, and airplane, and with exception to the airplane, you aren't going too fast and just take your time to follow the instructions instead of trying to set a record for the shortest time. If you really want to get finished fast, just don't get lost! Above all just relax and enjoy the ride. thxZ

If you were on a poker run, what would you expect in terms of roads and speeds? Would you expect to have potty stops or diversions for shopping (antiques, kink-knacks, closeouts, outdoor malls, etc.) marked on the route? thxZ

My goal isn't to make the calipers stand out, but to protect the surface from oxidation and allow them to be cleaned more easily. Raw aluminum will shed heat better than dirty or oxidized aluminum.

Registrations are rolling in! If you are interested, get yours in too, and remember that when you pay for your registration, it locks you in. Otherwise, prices might go up in August, so it's to your advantage to REGISTER TODAY!

If you were going to paint the calipers on a 280Z, what color would you pick? I lean towards Silver, red, or black. I will probably paint the drums to match too. thxZ

I got some new pads a few weeks ago on my DD car and I asked the guy about the break-in procedure, to which he says," There's no procedure. They're ready to go." Yes, they were done and ready for stopping, but you till have to break them in. I was going to get in the highway and get on & off a few times, using the brakes to stop mostly and the e-brake to hold the car at a light (after shifting to Neutral of course.) It looks like I stopped once or twice too fully, because I've got a little shudder. The same brake guy tested the car and tells me "You have a warped rotor." !!! :eek: :devious::devious: I argued a little that "There's no such thing!" and the guy then reminds me he's certified on brakes!?? Nore like certifyable... In the end, I went to another brake specialist who sanded the rotor a little and I got the pads done-in properly. The brake shop manager wasn't a specialist, just 'a guy in a suit' if you get my drift. So even after so many years of the word being out on the problem, some "experts" are still doing it WRONG.

Has anybody had success with any of those "systems" that ar supposed to repair stone chips, sctratches, etc.? I have a few spots where the paint just peeled/flaked off ( probably wasn't properly sanded before painting) and a few chips, and could use repair. thxZ

This is a good place to start learning about reading spark plugs.

The reason I might be interested in lenses likethat is the safety of having the yellow turn signal lenses. I'm concerened with the newer drivers, that they would understand what the flashing yellow light on the rear corner is, and that flashing red brake lamp might just mean that your lamp is malfunctioning. OTOH, the red lenses are more correct for the antique cars. thxZ

What's involved in mounting those? Will they fit the cutouts in a 280Z, and will the bolt holes match? thxZ

My paint is cracked on the pillar at the top of the hatch opening. I assume it's a clue like you suggest? Then to find out who makes rear strut bars for a 280Z... thxZ

Not to hijack this topic, but do you think a 78 could be fitted with a full-size well for the spare? It would be great to be able to get that tire a little lower in there.thxZ

He's an Englishman.

If I send you a milliion quid, do you think you can get that 240Z for me? The rest you can spend on bitter & chips

Coutesy Nissan sells the stainless bolt kits. They're not the cad plated kind, but you could correct that yourself easily.

The reason why it got that way is from the collapsable tire & rim rubbing on the bottom.

Do a search. there's a lot of info on this.

Interesting video. RPM graph, longitudinal &lateral Gs, and speed along the top, and timers along the botton.

I saw some POR products at the NAPA store in quart cans...

Higuys ( and babes), I was contemplating the fitment of a trut bar in the back of my 280Z, and besides the actual bolting-on of the thing, I would probably want to get the covers back on the seatbelt retractors. First of all, would a 280Z benefit from the addition of the strut bar? Personally I don't think I can tell if there is any flexing of the body. I'm probably more aware of the screaming tires :eek: than flexing. Is there enough room under the retractor to bolt on a strut bar? I think you'd need to cut a slot in the cover for the bar to go through, so would that spoil the looks of things? thxZ

For all those people who are or want to participate in the Mid-Ohio event, there is a tech inspection checklist & faq that needs to be reviewed and checked prior to the convention. You'll find it on the Mid-Ohio page oft he convention website: www.clevelandrockz.com/track.htm thxZ

Yup, mates! What they said...