TomoHawk

Can that ( moving the oil pump gear) be fixed without "taking the whole engine apart?" (refers to the FSM) Ah... there's a note about how to set the distributor drive spindle and installing the oil pump, so I think the answer is yes, the oil pump can be (extracted from below.) thxZ

I checked the ignition timing on my car yesterday (finally) and the mark (marks) are off the end of the timing indicatior. BTW- which mark to use; the one on the pulley or the balancer? Maybe one was filed in by a PO? Anyway, the engine runs, but I had the distributor turned all the way to get the timing mark to about 20 degrees (at 800 rpm, without any vacuum advance.) If it was a V8 engine, I'd say the dizzy was installed with the drive gear a tooth off, but the L28 dizzy only goes in one way or the other (180 degrees different.) I think a visit to the Nissan dealer to have the S30 guy look at the dizzy will be worthwhile. Maybe have him rebuild it? Just getting it that close helped the engine run SO much better. Lots more power at any speed, and increased fuel mileage. I wonder how it'll run when I get the timing right on. :laugh: Any ideas about what might be going on? thxZ

Read up (hint: use the search feature) on how the other kinds of seats are installed, and you'll get a good idea of how it's supposed to go. then you're on your own for your install.

I've had the EGR, and all the tubing, off for a few years. It wasn't working anyway. If I ever get the engine out, I would cut off the egr lobe and close it up.

The reason why there usually aren't details on how to put the different kinds of seats into a Z is because the procedure is basically the same for all; modify the stock supports or make new ones. Some are individually documented here in the forum area, but it wouldn't be practical to document each swap you see in an interchange list, except possibly for a short note on whether the stock suports were used, modified or replaced.

It's obviously a typo, but a humorous one. Like the recent Fred Jordan interview.

This Z conversion car has a 2,800 ci ENGINE! Article: http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/142_0307_1962_ferrari_250_gto_replica_kit/index.html The engine: http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/142_0307_1962_ferrari_250_gto_replica_kit/photo_03.html thxZ

The reason I got some is because the brake guy put on two new rotors because it was squealing, stating new rotors would cure the problem. Since, I have had squealing and one side grabs more than the other. I'm surprised there is even room enough for the shims to fit! Fortunately, the brake guy is nice enough to fix mistakes and only charges you for work DONE. BTW- in the picture above, what are the "anti-squeal springs" for? IMO, they are part of the anti-squeal 'system' since they only touch the pins the pads slide on. I think I will pick up a set of caliper hardware for some new anti-squeal springs; maybe the ones on there are too old or weak to work right? Sailor Bob- My car never had the shims since I got it, and none of my repair books has them. Apparently, the "restoration specialist" that sold me the car took them out as one of the many things he did to "restore" the car, along with wiring the blower fan wrong, wrong radio wiring, funky a/c wiring & vacuum/refrigerant lines, $50 paint job, etc. thxZ

the brake guy did all the work. But the FSM shows two shims, one on the back of each brake pad. #1 and #3 in the attached picture are the shims.

Yeah, I think so. I will order another set when I'm out near the dealer. Doing both sets of shims should even up the brakes, too, IMO. The one side with the shims is a little touchier now. thxZ

In that case, bot hthe FSM andthe Nissan tech guy seem to be ib error. the tech guy told me one package (two shims) will do both calipers, and the FSM states that the arrow indicates the direction of forward rotation.

You get two anti-squeal shims in a package, but do you only one per side or two? The FSM shows two on the one caliper. The confusing thing was that the tabs looked like you would put one on each caliper, but the arrows didn't match the rotation. thxZ

Right. You could pop the switch plate out, then push it all down through the hole and pop in the spare cover (like for a show) and then put it back for driving around.I happen to have my antenna switch on that little plastic insert in the centre, above the hazard switch.

You could easily put an antenna switch in the empty switch area next to the defroster switch. Just get an extra cover to put in when needed and mount the antenna switch into the cover.

There is a seat interchange list here somewhere... I put the Eclipse seats in my car because it did raise the height so I could get my elbow out the window. the OE seats made me feel like I was sitting on the floor. I just need to duck a little when I put a helmet on, or there is a little dent in the headliner for a day. BTW- What's so great about BMW seats? Which ones?

This topic comes up every summer... Gasoline comes up through the same big pipe from the same few refineries. The difference is the additives and octane boosters that the distributors put in before you pump it. I had some pinging in my engine before I gave it a couple treatments with Seafoam (i.e., it was decarbonized) but now it is great on 87 or 89 octane. So if you have a stock engine with 8.8:1 compression, and not a lot of carbon buildup and everything is adjusted right then you'll not be needing higher octane.

Have you seen the "240Z Restoration checklist"? It has the entire car catalogued with instructions on what to do with each part, and could be used a a model for your spreadsheets. http://www.jasonjarvis.com/main.html BTW... Today is Mr. Blakes birthday, among others. Check the homepage for all of today's birthdays.

This place might help you with those lamps: http://www.italparts.com/overzicht.php?id=103 (Page 3)

My local Nissan dealer has them for about $100, and it needs to be ordered. The local trans shop had a used one, which didn't look nice enough to buy.

The last time I inquired at an autimotive electronics shop, the guy showed me the light, and then started a big story about how its installed by drilling holes in the roof for the wires and the bolts... :eek: So I will be getting one from somewhere else., like the afore-mentioned Internet link.

What would you think- Mount the brake lamp at the top or the bottom of the window? Or the roof, or under the window on the hatch? thxZ

Hi Amy! There is a fan from a Ford LTD that is a popular retro-fit. It will fit in and has more of a flow. You can find more information on HybridZ.com ,

I still need to put in the additional wiring for the driving lamps, which probably won't be fun.

Has anybody ever added the third stop lamp to an S30? It could be a useful safety tool with all the tailgaters out there, and that cars like the 280Z doesn't have the different colors for brake & turn signals. One old guy actually asked me why my brake light was flashing when I was turning, and that I should fix it (the wiring) before an accident happens... Would you rather use something traditional with bulbs in it or go with the new L.E. D. style? It could be attached to the plastic cover near the dome lamp or attached directly to the window... You could even go with the roof-mounted type. Wiring it all up shouldn't be too hard after you get all the interior panels out. thxZ

One overy odd thing I read while researching Aux driving lights was the statement, "shall be so directed that no part of the beam will strike the level of the roadway on which the vehicle stands at a distance of more than seventy-five feet from the vehicle." What use would driving lights be if they could only project about 4 or 5 car-lengths ahead? That sounds like how you'd aim fog lamps.