TomoHawk

When I got my car, it was 25 yers old, so when I went to see how it tested, I was told I didn't need to, because it was over 25 years old.

Ohio still has emissions testing. You get several years grace period before required testing, then they just hook up a scanner to see what the engine computer has stored, and go from there if further testing is required. I had my 280Z checked with an exhaust sniffer for a few years to see how the engine was working.

For something like scale autocross, you couldn't get it going fast enough to need that much room. You'd be going at a manageable, maneuvering speed instead.

How did your engine turn out? thxZ

Those LC thermometers are cool, huh? I had lots of different ones that I put on electric motors at work, and one on my sunvisor. The roof of my daily car gets up to 125 F! IMO, I think that you should be able to get them with a target temp of 185 with a range of +/- 30F without too much trouble. Don't forget to ask for the samples pack.

Dude, You're back! It's too bad you missed last year's ZCON

Maybe you can hook a switch into the sensor relay to turn on the light manually, and change the indicator to say TURBO

I don't think so. Another thing to give the car away as a California car would be the altitude sensor, which mine doesn't have either.

There's no evidence that there was a catalytic converter on the car. AFAIK, it was always a Florida car. I could be wrong about the relay under the passenger seat- it could be for the a/c or something else. I don't think there was ever a sensor by the muffler area either. thxZ

Mine says Floor Temp, but it's not that noticeable, like the low fuel indicator. And yes, only the CA cars had the sensor and the other stuff. Mine has the relay under the passenger seat, but it I don't think it's connected. I don't know why it had the lamp in the vent panel, because it was never to be lighted.

That's what I have. draztik- The right hand light indicates you are low on gas, and the left one says "Floor temp" I think, to indicate the exhaust/muffler is getting hot, and the floor is getting hot too.

Mine is supposed to have "federal" emiisions, whatever that is; hence my question. There isn't much documentation on the different emmissions types.But from what I did learn about catalytic concerters is that they are designed to operate in certain regions of the U.S., (Like southwest/hotter states, New England/temperate area, alaska/arctic, etc.) and you can't just put "any" catalytic converter on it. thxZ

I usually have trouble soldering aluminum too. Usually the soot from the flame is the problem, but since the parts are very small, I can reclean, and try the 100W soldering ion. fwiw

Do we have pictures or drawings of the different emmissions labels, for informational purposes? Mine is supposed to be "federal" emmissions, and since there is no label on the hood (or it was covered with undercoating) the exhaust guys are a little uncomfortable working on the exhaust. thxZ

Did all the 280Zs have the floor temp light thing above the vents? My car is supposed to have "Federal" emmissions, and there's no floor temp sensor, so the indicator light is useless unless there's another use for the light, like a fog-light indicator? If the floor temp indicator was removed, the panel would look unbalanced. thxZ

Will a mini-spare fit in the tire well, if you can get one to fit a Z? Anyone know the dimensions of the spare tire well? thxZ

Can you get a collapsible spare tire like the OE one? What about a new tire to fit the spare wheel? I'm sure you can get the air cans, but the tires?

Nobody managed to jump the curb, I assume? :eek:

With a manual transmission, you use a different RPM to set the timing.

There are other topics here regarding the resistance values of the sending unit.

Yes, disconnect the vacuum tube from the advance pot. The 800 RPM is with the transmission in gear, btw. I just had my timing done. Now it has a much better idle, especially when cold, better fuel mileage (the exhaust no longer smells like fuel) and more power when driving. thxZ

Good point Jeff, I had a little trouble with mine in the 78 because it was reading about 1/4 tank when I was really empty. After cleaning the connections (the gauge connection apins and the sender plug pins) It was corrected. I used Deoxit on the pins to clean them. The local place that reseals the gas tank (gastankrenu.com) will also do the sender unit, so you might consider that instead of getting a new one. thxZ

Radio Shack doesn't carry too many resistors lately, so you would probably be better off going to a radio or TV repair shop. Maybe BD or MSA would have that.

OK, so the next question would be to decide which would be more apropriate as the next action: 1) Have the oil pump extracted to check the distributor drive shaft is correctly installed? 2) Have the distributor checked and questionable items rebuilt or corrected to get it correctly installed, since it is 180 deg. off? thxZ

Can that ( moving the oil pump gear) be fixed without "taking the whole engine apart?" (refers to the FSM) Ah... there's a note about how to set the distributor drive spindle and installing the oil pump, so I think the answer is yes, the oil pump can be (extracted from below.) thxZ