srbigbutt

I'm having a similar issue with one of my tail lights, but I think its because the bulb is not making good contact in the housing. The spring is worn out and doesn't make contact with the bottom of the bulb. I have fixed it a couple times but I probably just need to replace it.

I will try to give them a call. How much did you pay. I have a guy that has a set from a 74 that is willing to sell, but i'm not sure if they will fit.

The early Z's are deceptively slow! Feel fast when you are behind the wheel. My stock 280z ran 15.8 in the 1/4 on a slipping clutch, which isn't to bad, but will have a hard time keeping up with newer cars of today. BUT, its a blast to drive!!! I guess once you start driving it you will see that you can keep it pretty stock with minor bolt-ons and be greatly satisfied. If you are looking for serious power at a minimum price and keeping that classic look and feel, then I would recommend going turbo with a 280zx engine.

Ok, I need some quick help identifying which Window Regulators are the same. I've been looking for a driver side window regulator for my 1975 280z. I know for sure that the 77-78 are different and that the 70-73 are different. So I have someone who has a set from a 74 260z and he also has a set from a 70-73 and he has confirmed that it has different mounting points. So is the 74-76 the same?? I'm having a real hard time finding these.

Nice looking Z! Looking forward to more pics!

Have you tried pulling pulling the door handle as if you were trying to open the door?

Any pics?

Man love that Z. What part of Houston are you from? Can't wait to see that Z in person. Not sure about those clear side markers either by the way. And where is that front plate!! Been burned a couple times in town with no front plate.

Well looking at it from under the dash it looks like the leak is coming from the heater control valve/hoses area. Hoses look pretty nasty. Where can I find just the hoses. My car has factory AC by the way. I'm thinking I will replace the hoses and try to pump some water through and see if I can see any leaks. If I do I will try to hunt down a Heater control valve.

When I bought my 75 280z it had the heater core blocked off and they hose looped back into the block. The car was his sisters and she had passed away and he didn't know what was wrong with the system. So what i'm wondering, is there anyway to know what exactly is the problem without making a mess? Should I just plug everything back up and turn it on and see where if it leaks and from where.

Another Z update. She has been running fine for about a week now. Seems like the reason my lash pad fell off was because my Z needed a valve adjustment and it had been sitting for a little while. Atleast thats what i'm hoping! So far so good. Its definately running better after properly adjusting the valves.

Ok I figured out what happened. PO must have had issues with replacing headlight previously, because it only had 3 of the four screws for the headlight and they were somewhat stripped and the headlight was not mounted right. He then compensated by adjusting the light to point up which made it look like it was popped out. I replaced the screws with hex bolts and now it all looks good.

I was thinking of buying his 280z to 240z bumper brackets kit. $95 shipped for front and back isn't to bad.

They both are metal. I'm thinking that its probably some bent brackets for the headlights and they don't sit in the bucket properly. I tried to take them off last night and ended up stripping some screws so I will have to deal with that later. I just got some hex bolts to replace the screws.

Is the driver side headlight bucket on a 75 280z different from the passanger side. The reason I ask is because the passanger side fits nice and snug in the bucket, but the driver side looks a little different. The headlight seems to stick out a little more and it doesn't seem to have the same lip as the other one. Is this just something wrong with my buckets or is this normal.

Here is a link that helped me out when I was buying wheels and tires. Helps understand the difference in tire and wheel sizes http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp Hope it helps.

Ok, thought I would post a Z update and would like to some comments. I went back and took the valve cover off again and another lash pad had fallen off. Different one this time. I figured this was caused becaused I may have adjusted the valve to loose or something was really wrong. So I did another vavle adjustment and I can tell i'm definately getting better at it. Turning crank over by hand was better than bumping the starter. Made sure each lobe was pointing directly up when I adjusted. Double and triple checked adjustments after I tightend the lock nut. It seemed like everytime I would tighten it would change the lash setting. So I made sure all were correct and took my time and pretty darn sure I did it right this time. Turned on the car and it seem to run better than its ever run. Idle is a little lower than it was. It was at around 100rpm now its at around 800rpm. Runs smooth! So I drive it around a couple of times and everything is still smooth. I'm scared to really push it, because before it would run good and then I would push it and the lash pad fell off. I also put some Marvel Mystery Oil in it because I could see some sludge around the valve springs and I figured it couldn't hurt. I've been slowly pushing her and have gotten her to 4500rpm with no problem. I also bought a Engine compression tester and all 6 Cylinders read 135psi. Seems kinda low but all are exactly the same. So what do you think. I'll probably go out and push her a little harder tomorrow to see how she takes it.

Ok I need some help. I put the lash pad back in place, did a cold valve adjustment and then a hot valve adjustment. Spark plug in #5 where the lash pad fell off was bent so I replaced all 6 with new NGK plugs. Installed new valve cover gasket and then started it up. Ran fine and I was happy and thought I was done. Decided to take her for a drive around the block and it ran perfect until I got back in my driveway. It started to hesitate and stumble real bad. I can hear the AFM flapping and it felt like it wanted to die. Now it just runs like crap when I start it. Did I do something wrong with the valve job? I'm pretty sure I did everything as documented. Kinda strange that it ran fine for a while. Could it be a vacuum leak or is something else wrong? Any advice would be helpful.

Nevermind. I got it back in. Put the VC back on and started it up and it seemed to run smoothly. I will be doing my first Valve adjustment during the holidays and I hope everything turns out ok.

I took my Z out for a spin today and when I was close to home it started knocking, so I got home and took the valve cover off and saw the same thing pictured in post 1. Retainer on #5 had popped off. How exactly do you get that thing back in? I will then adjust the valves and hope to god everything is back to normal. I'm new to adjusting valves and hope its pretty straight forward.

How much for the side by side one? Also whats the size of inlet tube? Any pics of them installed on a Z? I have been looking for some pics of a Z with twin tips like that. I can't make up my mind on what exhaust to get.

Anybody have pics of a 280z with a 240z front bumper on it with the bumper guards. I was wondering how much of the 280z turn signals they cover and how it looks.

I definately miss both my Z31 and Z32. The Z32 TT was just awesome. All 3 Zeds have definately been a blast to drive. I love the Top Gear video of all the different Z's in a drag race including the 350z and a 90s TT just walks away from them all.

The fatter piece of my fix is the shift knob end. Here is a pic of my shifter. It seems a little shorter than stock and also does not have the bend I see in most.

Here is a question I have about the shifter in my car. Its obviously not stock, I would presume. Most of the shifters I've seen are threaded on the end and the shift knob screws onto the shifter. My shifter has a whole in it that is threaded and the shift knob has to screw into the shifter. This was very annoying when I bought my shifter from MSA. I had to make one of these to make it work... I welded to bolts together with the thread size for the shifter and one for the shift knob. Worked great. Until recently when I added shifter bushings I was trying to get the Z lined up right I broke the bolt. :mad: So now I either got to make another one or buy a new shifter. Does anyone else have a shifter that has a whole drilled in it and where do you think it came from.