rturbo 930

Would like to hear some feedback from anyone who has gotten this one. I was under the impression only the type with tinted banner were available. I'm going to need a new windshield at some point, and the only OE one available to me would have to be stolen from another car I have. A proper OE windshield replacement would be great to have.

Apologies, that was copied from the other thread to make it easier to find the relevant info. But yes, both racks measured were from US cars.

Yes, I caught that build on his channel around the time he started it. Quickly realized he has no clue what he's doing, and tuned out of the disaster that he called a build.

Here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99017-240z-rack-into-280z/ 240Z (1972) - 1.81" of travel per 360 deg of steering. 280Z (1976) - 1.5" of travel per 360 deg of steering

Yes, the steering racks are different, someone on hybrdZ measured the travel per revolution on both racks, and the 240 rack was a little faster. However, to me, that would mean that the 240 would have heavier steering, but the opposite is true.

Yes, those were vents. Your car is a series two, there is no chance it is a series one.

I just measured mine and got 20.63mm.

Yes, it's been posted both here and on HybridZ by a member who owns it.

You assume I haven't been reading the thread this entire time, and that somehow, if I were to go back and read the beginning, I might somehow change my mind. I've read all the same posts that you did and nothing in a single one of them made me think he might be tampering with something.

You can't just imply that someone is tampering with a VIN tag, or withholding pertinent info like they're intentionally hiding something and not expect them to be annoyed. You've done this before, in the thread by 87mj, and now you're doing it again, assuming that the person posting is up to no good when in reality, they're just looking for info or advice. You're out of line. And quite frankly, I really don't know where you come up with this stuff to begin with. I don't think anyone else reading his posts saw any ill intent on his part.

What? Why?

I wouldn't bother with the inner wheel arches. If you're going to flare your car, you can get by with using what's left on your car, and filling the gaps with sheet metal, most likely. There's a great thread on HybridZ about mounting the ZG flares, but unfortunately it looks like the pics, at least on the first page, are all dead. Looks like there's a few left on the second page that might be useful, and maybe there's some more later in the thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares

I will never understand why anyone would blend the air dam into the fenders, making the job of removing any of the three pieces a difficult ordeal. Looks like the flares aren't shaped too well either.

What's the preferred way of mounting the rear bar, ie, with the bar going behind the diff vs the way they were mounted from the factory, with the mounts up front? My '71 came with an ST kit, mounted with the bar going forward, not behind the diff, if it'll fit, I wouldn't mind putting those bars in my 280 if they'll fit. I expect the front bar would, rear bar *might* since the mounting looks similar.

No, a bit more than that, 350 sq meters is about 3800 sq ft. You might be thinking of yards. A meter is a bit more than a yard (36 in.), a foot is 12 in.

Not black, it's normal stainless trim, the way the photo is edited just makes it look different. Here's link that has a few more photos of the car: http://legacy.classiczcars.com/forums/dto_garage.php?do=viewvehicle&v=1428 Regarding black trim, especially with an orange paint job, I would say no way. Black trim, bumpers and wheels with orange paint will just make it look like you really, really like Halloween. If you don't want chrome/strainless trim, I would suggest a gunmetal or dark gray color instead. I think I would leave the window trim alone though, I don't think these cars look right with it blacked out or painted. IMO painting the bumpers and wheels dark gray would have enough of an effect reducing the amount of polished stuff on the car, and would look good. Bumpers and wheels are a lot easier to change as well.

Yeah, as I recall, the aftermarket replacement roll pan is only curved from top to bottom, whereas the original is curved in both directions, top to bottom and side to side.

Looks like the gas tank could use a patch.

You sure it didn't have a burr on it or something? My floor conveniently has a huge hole in it, and so I was able to measure my own (76 280Z) to compare, and in the spot I measured it, it came out to about 0.81-0.84mm (could have been an area that was stretched), which would actually be 21 gauge, and not 20, but nevertheless, 20 is what you should go with. 16 gauge is 1.5mm, and it's going to be a pain to work with, on top of being needlessly heavy. As a rule, you can assume that most of the sheet metal on the car is 20 gauge. Here's a chart that converts gauge to thickness in mm and inches: http://www.custompartnet.com/sheet-metal-gauge

Where did you get that the floors are 16 gauge? Did you measure, or is that from googling? Either way, I would expect them to be 20 gauge without looking.

That looks like it.

I think he sold the car, and I guess he let the site lapse. I noticed it was down a few days ago. It's a shame to lose all that info just because he sold the car.

Kind of an odd set of sizes, and I can't imagine why you'd get wheels 2" narrower in the front than the back. I'd get something in 15x7 or 15x8 all around and be done with it. Keep it simple. It's not like a Porsche where there's a reason to have wider tires in the back than the front.

Wouldn't an N42 head have reliefs for the injectors on the intake ports?

We got loads of those here lol. I'm amazed you've never seen one.