New-to-240z

Just to let everyone know, went to MSA today to pick up a relay and they charge $20 for it!!!!! I got the nissan part number and will be heading down to autozone soon to see if they can match it for a generic version. Hopefully much cheaper.

sorry to bring it back from the dead, but i have been having this same problem. SO, i checked for the relay under the dash on driver side. Found it. I can hear it clicking on and off, but VERY VERY FAINT, and that's only when i do driver side turn signal. The pass turn signal doesn't even flash. If i pul hazard pully, all lights flash , (ie. front 2 orange, and rear brake lights.) I was wondering if there is a seperate relay for the passenger side, and if maybe the relay isn't strong enough to push the power to the lights all the time. I will be cleaning out the connectors VERY SOON, but first wanted to check on here and see if it could be as easy as just the turn signal relay being bad.

well, the driver side which hasn't rubbed has the rounded edges going into the cup on the frame. While on the pass side, the rear bushing had the flat part actually cupped into the frame. So, I'm going to flip it, and tighten it down. Was wondering though, qhat should i tq them to?

from what it looked like, you set the rounded sit into the cup of the frame, yet on the www.atlanticz.com web site it says to do it with the flat part inside the cup of the frame. WHICH WAY? Will be pulling it out tomorrow to see.

here's the odd thing, the car NEVER did this with the OLDER bushings. I rep[laced them with MSA's poly bushings. That when this happened. Now, what do you mean by SLEEVE? Are you talking about the washer that goes in front of the bushings? I'm going to lift her up tomorrow and figure this out because this is driving me CRAZY!!

wow, not really worth all that work. I just want to get a better geared ratio for my SR20 swap. thinking like 4.11

hey guys, i got an offer on a 90-'96 z32 vlsd's w/ axles. 408 gear. for around 500 shipped to CA. I was wondering if 1) This will even fit in my 73 240z 2) If the price is worth it 3) What i will need to make it work. I have been doing some reading, and haven't found a 90-96 z32 diff with a 408 gear ratio? Was wondering if this is correct or not. I have read the forums and couldn't find anything. Please do help.

actually forums.hybridz.org is actually having a group buy on the 16x8 ones as we speak. Go check em out. From what i understand there is a few fitment issues with them. ie 1) U must have coilovers to clear 2) can't be larger then 225/40 16 3) i fotget the rest

Edit : I actually have 185/70 14 on my rims! hahahaha. Sorry about the difference. If that makes any difference at all.

how was the improvement? Will these fit a stock 14" rim? How about the sportmax 002 15X8? I don't want to go 16X8 because of rubbing issues.

just as a number game the MSA rack is 334+ tax, and to have your steering rack rebuilkt with around 2 day turn around time, is around 150. So, make your choice ( I do say, that getting new inner tie rods is a nice addtition.)

you can goto hybridz.com and check out their drivetrain ->differantial guide. It has everything u will ever need. I just don't have the link right now. I'm at work. I'm sure someone else will chime in and throw ya the link.

looknig at the back of the TC rod (ie where it bolts to the fram and has the nut fastening it) it has the same amount of threads showing as the driver side does. I haven't checked the connection to the LCA, seeing as if they would have messed that up, I'd never take anything to them again! (I'm kind of thiknig these guys are very knowledgeable. I'm not going back) As for the tires and rims, they are the stock rims that came on the 73 240z, and are 195/60 or 195/50 15 i believe. What's odd, is the driver side has NO problems AT ALL, but the pass side is much closer to the front fender. The car has NEVER been in an accident, and BOB C can back me up on this ( Bob C has actually seen the car in person). Also, the car NEVER did this before the bushing replacement.

no, still waiting to do thje rear, and then i'll have the car aligned. Could that be the culprit?

well, i u guys were right. It was facing thje front of the car. So they switched it back out and now it faces the back. The only thing is, it didn't make a huge difference. I mean, i haven't had my tire rub up against the front fender yet, but it seems like the spacing between the front fender and rear fender isn't even. The tire sits a little forward. Has anyone else notice this? Does your car's front tires sit forward in the wheel well? Should they be dead center?

so they should BOTH be facing backwards? the thicker part should be facing the rear of the car? Becasue MSA said the pass side should be facing the front of the car? I'm very lost right now. haha They even showed me a stock LCA for the pass side.

P.S. I've never heard of an insurance company taking over 3 weeks to contact the insured about a loss they may have to handle. If I ever got into an accident and no cops were involved but the other person took my info to handel this, it only took maybe 1 to 2 weeks before i heard from my insurance.

Escalon, that is true. BUUT, what Surf should do is contact his insurance and SEE when the claim was filed. If the claim was filed late (ie over a month say) then he could say that she could have easily hit another car, or made the damage worse to get the claim. PLUS, yes he gave her his information, but that doesn't mean he knew he was at fault. He could say that he GOT HER INFORMATION, but decided not to file it against her seeing that she was so calm about the problem and there was no damage done to HIS car. I mean, its words against words in this sort of case. If there was bad enough damage for her to file the claim why wouldn't she call the police and have them come down to write out the accident? I'm just saying, that its possible.

From what i was told, on the pass side the bump is pointing out towards the front, and on the driver side it points toward the back. Am i wrong? Are the both pointing forward? Someone please make this a little more clear In your pics it looks like they both point forward. . . am i wrong?

i will stop driving the car today. It has been driving fine, but i am going to drive it down to the shop tomorrow morning, and have them take a look. From what it seems, they MUST have put the bushings in wrong!! If that's the case, I am making them fix it, and take $$ off the rear end when/IF i have it done by them. Well, i guess we'll find out tomorrow.

My passenger front tire now hits the front fender lip while backing up. I have been trying to figure out how this could be happening? I tightened down all the bolts and the only bolt that wasn't very tight was the TC rod on the passenger side. ( I didn't replace the bushnigs myself, i had a shop do this for me.) Anyway, i went down to MSA and asked them, and they thought the only reason that this could be happening, is one of the guys must have messed up putting the LCA bushing in. He said that the stock bushings have a metal cylinder that purtrudes (sp) out on one side. And it is portruding out on different sides for pass and driver. When they put my bushnigs on, they put them on in the same way for both sides, so now my driver side would be fine but the pass side is too far forward. I went today and did a finger test on how far forward the tire is on the pass side compared to the driver side. I can BARELY fit my pinky and ring finger between the tire and front bottom fender on the pass side. Then went over to the driver side and i could fit almost 4 fingers!!!! I think they MUST have FUBARED this up, because i NEVER had this problem before the bushiung swap out. Can anyone here think of ANY other reason as to why this could happen?

california state law, from what i know, is that if a driver behind you doesn't give you enough room to safely drive off ( In driving school they tell you to always stop far enough back so that you can see the bottom of the rear bumper over your hood) then it is the tail-gater's fault. Reason being, when driving a manual whether on a hill or at a stop sign, in a manual car there is always a chance for the car to roll back 1/2 foot or 1 foot. This can be because of bad clutch, bad driver, etc. So, from what i understand is that if you BARELY rolled back, (1/2 ft to 1 ft) and you bump into someone, then it is the tail-gaters' fault. I would of course call the police station or stop a police man and ask him what he thinks about the situation. NOW, about the waiting 3 months thing. U CAN EASILY, IF IT GOES THIS FAR, TESTIFY THAT HOW DO U KNOW THAT SHE HASN'T RUN INTO ANYONE IN THE PAST 3 MONTHS? U can take pictures of your car, where her car WOULD HAVE IT/DID HIT, to show no damage what-so-ever. And, explain that at the time of the incident u both decided that no harm no fale(sp). No insurance company can hold you responsible for something that MAY have happened in between her hitting you, and her reporting the claim. PLUS, i always thought that the law stated that a insurance claim must be reported within the first 2 weeks or week of the incident. If not then it is considered to be the reportee's fault. Anyway, just ranting and helping. For what its worth, if she does decide to get serious about this, tell her u'll see her in court, then basically say what i've told you, and then sue HER for time lost at work. And harrassment (her constant phone calls, lieing about the incident.) Whatever u can think of basically. Good luck.

I just found the problem!! I can't imagine how, but a green white next to the distributor go INSIDE the distributor and was shorted out from the spark!!!! I pulled it out, replaced the fuse, and BAM! FIXED!! I'm still trying to figure out how the hell that happened. I think I am going to need to get some new points, since this probably messed them up. I'll be checking the Dwell in a little while.

Well, I was driving on the freeway, and it was VERY VERY HOT OUTSIDE. I decided to turn my car around and head home for the day. I was sitting at a stoplight and when i took off, my car made a HUGE backfire and all of a sudden all my gauges except for my MPH gauge went out. I looked at the fuse box and the third down from the left top was blown. I put a new 20 amp in there and turned the car back to on, and then bam it went out again! What's going on here guys? Did a wire blow up and now i got a short? Please help me!

Ramses, could you take a few pics too? Would be VERY helpful in donig this mod. I am more of a see it kind of a person then read it. Anything will be appriciated GREATLY!!!