Diseazd

Mark the wires, unplug them, then drive off the locking mechanism (counterclockwise). Pull out the sending unit and replace the "o" ring. Reverse the procedure to replace. You can probably get the" o" ring at your dealer, if not,you can get them from MSA or BD. 20 minute job.

Charlie Osborne at Zeddfinders had them at one time. 613-389-1395 .....Datsunzparts.com

Chris......You really need to kill that frickin bug!!!

Check all of your lash pads.....they're between the tip of the rocker and the valve. They can pop out sometimes.

That car absolutely takes your breath away. It's the kind of Z that could change the streak of low Z prices at Barrett Jackson or any other high scale auction. Best of luck to you Jared.......you've built a true masterpiece!!!

Plan to have one section with 12 foot ceilings for your new BendPack Lift. The best $4,000.00 investment (installed) you'll ever make! It'll also let you park another car underneath.

Too loose is better than too tight. FastWoman is dead on......Z engines with solid rocker to lobe contact ain't going to be velvety quiet. unless your noise is excessive, don't narrow your clearance too much.

Sorry....ST is special tool.......there's a picture in the Service Manual(FSM) that shows one. By the way, your chances of prying out those side seals without removing the bearing cap are about the same chances of me winning Indy this year with my Z. Also, I'll bet you can't find anyone on this forum that has ever replaced the side seals while in the car. Finally, I'll also bet that side seals are not your problem......there is absolutely nothing to wear out or deteriorate with a side seal. They just don't go bad......Ever. All IMO.

Without a ST to remove the rear main bearing cap, it would be a bitch. The rear main cap is a super tight press fit.

Remember.....there are two adjustment nuts on the distributor to adjust timing. You may be able to get more advance by loosening the second adjustment nut. Also, if you don't trust your damper, you can pull the number 1 plug , disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine over by pushing in 4th gear until the number one piston is rising on the compression stroke. Stick a long screwdriver in the number 1 spark plug hole until it contacts the top of the piston and bring the piston to top center. Then check your timing marker to your damper.

Acador.....Did you use Isky valve springs and retainers to handle the lift of the new cam? Dave Rebello sells outter valve springs that you use with stock inner springs and stock retainers that will work with up to .500 lift and .240 lash pads.Did someone set up the rocker geometry with the thicker required lash pads? In other words,tell us in detail what exactly was done to the head. I don't think that maximum power at 5200 is abnormal for an L28 with longer stroke. Just shift at 6,000 rpm and go for the next gear!

Sign me up for 4 pair.

I particularly like Sweet West Texas Light crude!

Isky Cams recommends. 1) BradPenn. Penn- grade 2) Pennzoil "GTP" racing oil 3) Valvoline VR1 racing oil In that order. All contain generous amounts of zinc/phosphorous.They strongly recommend not using synthetics during break in. If you must use synthetic, they recommend 1) Amzoil (red) racing oil or 2) Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil. They have some experience in this regard. Pay your money and take your chances......everyone has their own opinions, and they probably think they are right.

Everyone should wear a name tag with their "Classic Zcars handle" on it so we know who you are! :laugh: What about it Will?

Have you tried your local dealer....I bought one new last year from my Nissan dealer along with new right and left front fenders.

I agree with Arnie....1mm is .040 inch overbore...... .75 would be .030 over. The idiot that built this engine missed a couple teeth on the timing chain. .013 out of the block shouldn't be a problem unless you've got a very high lift cam. Use your new head....... make sure your bright links are where they should be and you should have no problem. All IMO. Guy

Very....very nice!!! Nissan has new horn buttons.

An F54 short block with flat-top pistons will work fine........If you install the pistons in your block install new rings, hone the cylinders, new bearings and you should be good to go. The P90 head shaved .080 with .080 shims on the towers and valve springs should give you slightly under 10 to 1 compression. Here's a similar build........ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34448

Thanks everyone.........I appreciate your input.

Rob......I wouldn't recommend that you try to change the side seals while the engine is in the car. You have to remove the rear bearing cap to remove the old side seals. This is not an easy job. I don't even know if it can be done while in the car without a special tool to remove it ( extremely tight fit). I don't think side seals even go bad ( never heard of it happening). If a seal is leaking, your chances are 99.9 that it is the rear seal (a relatively easy job once the tranny and flywheel are off). Be careful when you pry it out with a screw driver or seal puller that you don't gouge the polished area of the crank that the seal rides on. Good Luck......All IMO. Guy

Anyone found a modern touch up paint that matches 904 white for the early 240Z's? Something that you could readily obtain at NAPA or Pep Boys etc?

Same here....I have 2 F54 block L28'S with the p79 head shaved .080 inches with .040 over flat-tops running 10 to 1 CR with no sign of a ping. I've heard the more duration the less problem. Both run stage III Isky cams with .490 lift. Both are a blast to drive!

Timing gear, chain sprocket and damper. You can get them at your Nissan dealer, MSA, Black Dragon or you can always buy them from Redat on eBay.

Nice job cozye........keep up the pics!