Diseazd

Ditto to everything Brandon said......This guy could sell rides at $100.00 each. It was the most exhilirating experience I've ever felt in an automobile. If you ever get the chance to ride in the GTR the way it should be driven, offer to pay for the gas and go for it!!!! Just don't go if you have any heart problems what-so-ever! The Skyline powered 240Z was faster than the GTR only very much more dangerous. If you can "light up the tires" at 80, you can imagine some scarey things that can happen. Thanks Russell for letting me know how inferior my cars are!!!! Guy

Check with Motorsports or whoever you order the timing chain kit from......there is a different part number for 280 versus 240, but I couldn't find anything different. When I asked the difference they said one of the chain guides was slightly different, but I still couldn't see a difference when I compared the new kits.( I was building a 240 and 280 at the time.) Guy

The 280 and 240 timing cover are identical, everything works.....240 Z distributor requires spacer bracket that attaches between distributor base and timing cover (get it off of used 240Z front cover) or from ZBARN.COM. The distributor shaft, cam sprocket,oil pump etc. are all interchangeable.

Steve....Thanks so much for pointing out that thread.....Bruce did an incredible job of restoration....he didn't cut any corners! Bruce is also an incredible person ( I still stay in touch ) The car is absolutely beautiful and has won 1st at every show I've entered it in! Ask Fred (PIZZAMAN). He's a national judge and knows his stuff. I did build a modified L-28 engine for it ( it really hauls the freight now ), but saved the beautiful original engine that Bruce had built. Wait till you see the finished product on the 71 I'm restoring now. It will be be equally impressive. Thanks again Guy.... By the way...I'm the Dad http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31001 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

Jon.....Thanks for the suggestion......I may try them someday, but I get good "POP" from the SU's, and they sure are easy to maintain....right Bruce Palmer?

TRUCE???? Just remember.......you started this by saying I didn't build my own engines.......Me and Five and Dime pride ourselves on building our own engines, and we do a damn good job of it! We also recognize the 1st amendment and if you don't agree with us that's fine.....but don't accuse of of not building our own engines!!!! We'll continue to try to help others on the forum with our ideas and we respect your views......OK? By the way.....great video!!!! Guy

Jon....These are pictures of the last 2 engines we built....now post yours!!!!

Amen!!!!!

Jon.......If you wish to cut corners in building your engines go ahead. Five and and Dime has been taught by his "Old Man" "Diseazd" that if you put $5,000.00 into a "well built engine" you're a "dumb arse" if you cut corners to save $200.00 by not putting new rockers into that engine. You build your "half arse" engines the way you want and we'll build our pristine smokers the way we want!!!! See you on the race track!!!!! "Ojects in my rearview mirror are losing"!!!! Author unknown!

Jon.....Who pulled your chain?......I do all of my own work and have done since 1970. I've built over 20 L series motors including the 5 I currently own (3 L-24's and 2 modified L-28's). If you want to build an engine with old rockers do it........however most good builders recommend reconditioned or new rockers with a cam regrind. You build it your way I'll build it my way!!!!!

Marty.....Changing the cam to a Stage III will give you about 20 h.p. Changing the cam and increasing compression to 10 to 1 will give you give or take about 30 h.p. (flywheel). To do so you need to shave and shim the head. New cams require correct rocker geometry........installation best left to a pro with access to multiple size lash pads. With parts and labor, a correct installation will cost $1,000.00 to $1,200.00 for everything! Well worth it IMO.

Isky will regrind your cam to stage III, provide the proper valve spings (stock is good for only .450 lift max.) lash pads and retainers for $390.00. New rockers are an absolute must for a new regrind ($200.00 from Nissan). The L28 stage III is 10 degrees greater duration than stock with a .490 lift. You really feel this cam come on above 3,000 rpm. Head work helps as well as headers, but increased compression with flat tops does the most for a hotter cam. www.iskycams.com

Could be a P79 or P90......With flat tops, either head would give you about 8.5 to 1. To increase compression,you'll need to get someone to shave and shim the head. .080 cut will give you 10 to 1, but the cam towers and valve springs must be shimmed .080 also.

Motorsports sells the bolt kit for the thermostat housing.

I believe the oil plug is magnetized. It may be attached already!

Pull the car uphill slightly.......pull the oil drain plug and watch it come out!!!!

280 master.......The owner of that motor must have run on grain alcohol......the flask is still attached to the front of the block! Nice paint job!

Mike....If it's that clean, I wouldn't "futz with it". Put it back on as is and run it!

I'll post the pics as soon as I pick up the head. This is what's so cool about the L-series motors........people are always trying to squeeze that extra streetable h.p. out of a 35 year old motor! Thanks Guy

Ditto for me gerry 240, and also for setting points.

Carl......I've got your answer. Go to www.datsunzgarage.com click performance tip, then under heads, click the underlined P 79. This guy worked with the Z Doctor and has built and discusses the identical engine to my first build. He mentioned that he cc'd that identical P 79 .080 cut and shimmed head and got a reduction to 46cc chamber volume. Now you can tell me what my 1mm overbore will give me as a CR. I appreciate your help. If I did my numbers right, with the stock gasket that would be 9.9645 to 1 on the 1mm overbore. Guy

Carl.....The first L 28 I built was standard bore, flat top pistons, F 54 block, P 79 head shaved .080, shimmed .080 with Isky Stage III cam .490 lift and 20 degrees more duration than stock L 28. I guess you could start with the CR of a stock 1983 L 28 which is standard bore, flat top pistons, standard head etc. ( what CR was that engine stock?). If it was 8.5 to 1 or so, I guess the decrease in head volume brought it up to 10 to 1. The new engine I'm building now will be bored .040 over, so I'm not sure what CR I'll be running on this engine, but I've had absolutely no problem with 93 pump gas with the first one.........It's a real joy to drive with the SU's. It really gets up and goes and has very little lope. It makes driving a ball!!! Guy

Carl....... I've seen how it's done in my old "Modify 510,240Z Book". Doc probably knows to the cc what the volume is.......I'll ask him next time I talk to him. He did say that the standard bore L28 with .080 shaved P 79 head was 10 to 1 compression, so you might be able to plug in your other known L 28 numbers to find swept volume. Guy

Gary.....The Z doctor in Roanoke is building the head.......he says 10 to 1 , but with the higher duration cam it runs perfect on 93 pump gas....at least the last one I built did! Carl.....I'll get pics of the head with valves when it comes back.....I'm not sure how I could cc the head though. Guy

Points are fine if you keep 'em set correctly........gives you something to do from time to time!