Z train

Do a search here for ECM issues.Could be a simple 10 minute solder job.I did a write-up last year on the same issue you're having. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36903&highlight=ecm

If you thermal coat the heat shield silver(or better yet-white)that will be your best "bang for the buck".Exhaust gas temperature is over 1300 degrees when it exits the head. If you are still having a "heat soak" issue after that then something else is"out of sorts".

The factory makes a heat shield,but i'm not sure what models it came on.Having that thermal coated would be a decent alternative.

Fastchick-expoxy will not survive the oven.

Port matching and smoothing out "runner boogers" is never a waste of time.

Eastwood makes a good coating for the manifold.As far as podercoating goes,the normal stuff melts at 400 degrees. There is stuff called "Toon bright" that will clean up the intake good.

So,Will-Are you a danger to your Z and /or other Z's?

Pandora's box...about to be opened.Arne-you are correct.HOWEVER,a lot of states place responsiblity for the cars"sales worthiness"on the current seller.regardless of past "POs"transgressions.Still,this needs to be dealt with now.

yeah...welll.....ahhh......$^!#. Well it is Tucson and it was 105 that night.And the cord from the portable valve guide machine did reach the pool.

The back one loosened up again?I was gonna mention the tightening the front bolt thing. Oddly enough the belt started squealing on start up on Mo's Truck.The back lower bolt had come loose.Sound familiar? Keep an eye on the bolts,you might need loc-tite them for somre odd reason. Some.Repeat SOME regulators are adjustable.I'm not sure about these.

1)Non-sequitur 2)Compared to you,i do know it all,as i've forgotten more than you'll ever know. And seeing as how Jans car has been in my garage and i have first hand knowledge of the issue(noise),if i can't get a handle on it,safe to say you won't.Take a look at all the members on this board.I'm the last one you want to start a pissing contest with. Now,back to our regularly scheduled programming.

At least that rules out anything we did during the timing chain swap.Right now,Don's idea is the only thing i can come up with.

O/K.But we did cure some of the noise with the chain kit install correct?

No-but he was running only 10/40 then.

Ya don't run 10/30 in a 250,000 mile motor that lives in temps exceeding 100 degrees for months at a stretch. The balancer is tight as Jan stated. Sitting in the pool last night talking with my machinist,we were discussing this little "issue"he trggiering a long lost fact filed away somewhere.If i remember right,the tensioner is fed off of the number one main(or somewhere in the vicinity.It is POSSIBLE that a piece of gasket or some other debris(not sludge) has entered the passage feeding the tensioner.This MIGHT explain the problem.

We've been +100 for the past three months.Yesterday it was 112 at Gila Bend.A few weeks back it hit 120.Tucson is always about 10 degrees cooler.And for Ca,you're 90 weight selection would be correct. But in any event,the oil weight isn't the issue here.Everyone here is scratching their heads over this noise.

Sorry,Steve-YOU look again.I am looking at both FSMs(as i type this),one for the 810 and one for the 78 620 and they both call for 20/50 for temperatures encountered here in Tucson. And as a side note they also call for 140 weight gear lube.

Because the FSM calls for 20/50.

Thought so.I highly suggest "Luna starters & alternators" over on Grant Rd.You can also get a pulley from them that increases alternator output at idle.I'll be back early Tues.You can try that reg if you want.

Jan-is that an IR alernator?Or is the reg external?If it's external,you can try the one off the blue wagon to verify.

There might be a loose connection between the seat & steering wheel.have you checked lately? ;0

I thought it was pronounced"Joisey".