Zvoiture

Yup, that's basically the same location as the factory mounts. I would still be interested in seeing a factory one. I know this has been discussed on an 'Alan' thread before, but don't remember the outcome. The brackets were welded on in US from '73-on, but were rear sway bars ever INSTALLED in them? steve77

And about half my collection of Z sway bars. NONE OF WHICH WORK!!!!! steve77

And here is the 11/76 alignment:

Does anyone actually OWN a rear sway bar for a 240 that fits into those cute little brackets that come pre-installed on something like '73-on? It looks identical to the 280 and accepts the same bushing and cover and bolt and everything BUT they are in different places!!!! Needless to say, a 280 stock sway bar DOES NOT fit into these brackets. Well...it fits INTO them just fine, but the eyelets for the endlinks are hanging out back somewhere around the e-brake lever. On closer inspection, (lucky me, I have a 280 and a 240 side-by-side in the gee-raaage) the brackets on the 240 are welded on the same structural member that crosses the underbody and contains the front diff. and control arm mounts. So a bar installed on a 240 would have to be bent either FORWARD, to go around these items, or DOWN to go under the diffy mount (blocking all the bolt heads). On the 280, the brackets are well forward of the diffy mount and are welded to one of the multitude of structural members back there. The bar is perfectly straight and lines up with the heads on the control arm bushing retainer bolts. Hence the 'arms' on the 280 bar are much too long to use on a 240 and they hang out way rearward of the end-link area. If anyone has a bar that fits into these brackets, I would love to see it. Here is the 11/72 alignment:

This situation has re-surfaced in another car. Question 1. I have never seen the early style, but am guessing converting to the new option is not an option. #2. the boltholes in the tranny are the same, no? steve77

Yeah...wait til you find all the typewriter parts and modified Zero fighter bits......sorry Alan... steve77

First time back on all fours in a few weeks. The corners were fresh back from the machine shop and have been sitting here for a couple weeks. New spindle pins, urethane bushings, everything cleaned and painted. 25mm sway bar front and not-so-fat aftermarket rear, new Tokico struts, BRE springs and tubes, 3" X 1/2" lug studs installed, rear hubs removed and replaced with new seals and severely packed. 280 hubs. T/C kit. Adjustable camber bushings. Solid diffy mount. 280 rear drums. Front rotors turned. Front shrouds removed. Carbotech fronts pads and Porterfield R4s rear shoes. SS brake lines. 83 R180 and halfshafts (stub-style). Not bad for one afternoon, huh? Gonna need to borrow someone's baseball bat. those fenders are gonna need some work. There's no engine in that yet, and they are only 225#. REar is gonna rub too when cell is installed and seats and tranny and cage and...and...and... steve77

Yeah, I think I will buy a shorter bolt and just cut one of hte new spacers down into two 3/4" pieces. That way everything will look new. Funny thing: my new bushings and washers will not fit on the old bolt--that was my first impulse: Use the old bolt and nut and spacer and everythign else new. It must be 9/16, not 14mm. That is, unless I find some sort of 360 degree swivel for an eyelet. Gonna have to go browsing on that aisle tomorrow. Would love to find a way to adapt to solid links. Are sway bars pretty hard steel? Could they be threaded or drilled? steve77

3/4"

So al I need to do is get a shorter bolt and nut and re-use the center spacer and use my new bushings. Is there a way to adapt a solid endlink on a bar with eyelet ends? I have only seen them on threaded or pinned ends. steve77

For comparison....

OK, flipped the hting over and found some really shord end links in the salvage bucket. These must have been them. This is off the jack, but nothing tightened. Looks like it will work! Thanks. steve77

No, that's the embarassing part! This bar was on the car before I stripped it. So I know it works. the car was lowered before, but about half as much as now (I am 1" from tire to fender in rear with no tranny, tank or interior and 14" tires). I saved all the end links that came off the car just in case. Now I am glad. There are some shorter ones, but no longer ones. I am going to try the shorter ones and go under the axls. steve77

I test-fit it UNDER the axle, but it looked like it would need end links that are about 2" long to work. In the picture above, I had to take the end links off to get the car down off the jack. They totally bound up and wouldn't let the car down (up, actually). I had end links on there that I bought from Energy Suspension that are 3" from bearing point to bearing point. Someone has to have a picture of this thing installed on a severly lowered car. steve77

Over.

That's it...the one in your post down at the bottom. It's hard to see in the pic, but the arms are bent slightly up and down into a little arch. THEY HIT THE HALFSHAFTS!!!! Is it because the car is too low? Let me go take a picture. steve77

Can someone tell me where a picture of a rear-oriented aftermarket rear sway bar is that shows the end links? I just put one in this 73 and have clearance problems. I can't figure out which way it should be installed to clear the halfshafts. steve77

>>>Z32 NA, S13+ or R32+. <<< Agreed. That is NOT the way a Z31 is supported. steve77

Thank you, Professor. steve77

I'm 2460 with me (125) and 10 gallons. That's LB's (over here you say "ell bee's")...lookng for my cal-q-lator... steve(that's a 280 with full interior, by the way)77

Is this an AU only conversation? steve77

I found a Z for sale today that the owner says is "prepared for GT2." Looking at it this weekend. Now, I just absorbed EP, CP, BSP, F prepared and ITS and am curious what GT2 would mean applied to a Z. What is GT2? What is the competition? steve77

>>>>Chloe's 'bombproof' packaging is becoming legendary, and I 'm sure defies physics with the amount of packing material they can get<<<< I agree. She's GOTTA be losing money on shipping! (side note: the packaging has the distinct aroma of cigarette smoke!) I always use UPS and they also have a cost calculator on their site. I send anyone there with their zip and weight. steve77

>>>>It is the amateurs (mostly) who do not know how to price their items properly and then experience remorse when it sells cheaper than they wished who screw people on onerous shipping charges. <<<< Thanks, Carl...that was very nearly my point--I just never got around to actually saying it. I have never had ANYONE quible about my UPFRONT/PRESET shipping charges (and since this whole thread STARTED with the problem of NON-upfront shipping, perhaps it is irrelevant) and now have a really good idea of what something will cost to ship when I advertise it. It was a learning process, yes, and now my shipping prices are higher, but upfront. steve77