superfunk

More importantly, Will the EVAPO tank fit in my car if I plug the hoses?

My bad on that one. I really havent bothered with my profile since I registered, and it turns out I had checked the wrong year. My car was built in 3/71. From what I have been able to decipher, it is not a series one, no big deal to me, its still going to be a sweet daily driver. Were the tanks on these cars that different over the years? I might have a lead on one out of a 74 that was wrecked from the front, tank is in OK shape... needs work but should do.

sorry, by proper work done, I mean getting scrapped and starting with a tank in better shape.

OK, So I patched up the hole using JB Weld, Its sticking nicely. It seems that over the years with moisture trapped under there, the tank has become porous. Gas will literally seep through the metal. So i guess the tank is coming out and getting the proper work done.

Whats everyones fear about gasoline? In reality, gasoline is not THAT volitile of a substance. Ever wonder why there is such a small range in the fuel to air ratio that will work. I have never heard of gasoline exploding from something like that. Yes, it will burn, but my car is not going to blow up. To make it burn it would also need to be dripping on something very hot, like the exhaust manifold. I need a temporary fix because I am VERY short on cash. I'm graduating very soon and have a really good job lined up. So this fix would be for just a couple of months until I can afford to do it right. As for getting a cheap tank, unfortunately im in Canada, and all the tanks for sale (the few that I found) were in the same shape as mine.... so there is still the cost of properly sealing the tank. I am aware of the risks in what im doing, and understand the responses I've been getting. So I guess I'll just kinda refine my question. Will a patched gas tank pass safety inspection in Ontario. Thanks

There's rust on the tank from moisture trapped under the bad fiberglass job. Yes the metal around the leak is a bit thin. This is a temporary fix, and I do know its not the right way to do it.

Hi, In the long quest to get my z on the road, i've run into a leaky fuel tank. I went underneath and found half of the tank covered in fiberglass. This made it nearly impossible to find the leak, since the fibreglass diffused the gas nicely to make it drip from the entire bottom of the tank. I decided the best idea was to rip off the fiberglass, which was easy... too easy. I found moisture (gas) and rust under the glass. I am planning on (i know this is the wrong thing to do, but im very tight on cash) fixing up the hole I found with JB Weld or Seal All. Any recommendations on this? Will this pass safety in ontario? I do plan on sealing it properly in the long run, so dont get all mad at me for the cheap fix. Thanks,

I have experienced this on many older cars (none with spectacular trannys). If it is just when shifting into reverse, I find that it is typically just because your revs are too high (or your car is moving forward too fast, same problem just from the other end). I have not had one of these transmissions apart, but typically (and from what I can tell in the Chiltons manual) there are not syncros on reverse. That is most likely your problem.

Thanks for the reply, I had kinda thought this thread had died. As far as work goes, I had my head rebuilt - surfaced, new valve seats, old valves reground, mild polish job. Its an early E88 with the small E31 combustion chambers. As for other work, there really hasnt been much. Its running dual webers. I went ahead and tried firing it up, after solving a fuel issue, it fired right up and idles very smoothly. Much too smoothly to have a compression problem. Im assuming I just had some dry rings that werent seating properly. The car had been sitting for a few years. Its all good now, and I just have a few minor issues to deal with, then I can put plates on her and really experience the Z.

The linkage on my '71 was sticking in two places. There is a spring under the gas pedal that was extremely worn, and the return spring on the carbs (I have dual webers, but im sure that the SUs have a similar return spring)themselves was gummed up. A little clean and lube on the carb spring, and replacing the other one fixed it up quite well. I would be very interested though if anyone knows if someone makes new linkage parts. Mine are worn badly and there is alot of play.

Got er, Thanks

Thanks, Sorry, its a '71 240z. So I have to unhook the slider assembly to get the faceplate off. Are there any easy ways to do this, because it sure is hard to get behind there.

Ok, Im pretty sure im just an idiot missing something simple. I need to get the plastic panel off that covers the heater controls and radio. I took the 4 screw out. I took the faceplate off the radio, the radio is free. I took the knob and nut off the fan switch. I've taken the ends off the slider controls. In my book, it says the face plate will just slide right out. My problem is that the faceplate seems to be connected to the slider controls still. It wont move at all with respect to them. I dont want to break this plastic piece, but I really need to get the heater working (The government says it has to work in order to safety the car so I can put plates on it, plus it gets cold outside). Am I missing something simple? or has something fused together ( I cant see how) over the years? Also, what are common things that would cause the fan to not work. I had it blowing for a second the first time the car ran, then turned it off and it didnt start again. So I'm guessing the switch, but are there other common things that go wrong. Thanks for any input.

Im in Kingston right now finishing up my schooling (not in the prions). I know there is way too much salt on the roads here to be driving, but I really couldnt resist it, and I'm going to be tackling my rust issues soon anyways

This is kinda weird, I just got back from my first drive in my Z as well. its an early 71. Definately a unique experience. I cant wait to go drive her again.

I have my car almost ready to fire after a lot of headaches and learning never to trust a previous owner. I decided to do a quick compression test while im waiting for a distributer cap. 4 of the 6 cylinders were fine, in the 140-150 range. My problem was with cylinders 1 and 3. Now I did this test on a cold engine, and didnt put any oil in the cylinders. The thing that I found weird was I first tested #1 at 50 pounds. I went and did the rest of the cylinders, then retested #1 at 70 pounds. Did I mess up in how I tested the compression, or should I be looking at rebuilding the bottom end. Also, on another note, how important is priming these oil pumps. Will they such if they arent primed completely. Thanks for any insight Its a '71 240z with an E88 head Adam

Ok, So I am slowly getting my '71 240Z together. I bought it with the intake and carbs sitting in the hatch. I havent seen one of these cars together in person and I cant wait to get this running to drive it. I have a little question about the cooling circuit. On the drivers side there is a heater hose that splits into two parallel lines. One goes through the intake manifold and one kinda bypasses it. My question is, on the line the goes through the manifold, should there by some sort of a thermostat valve there? I dont think I want hot coolant going through there all the time. If there is a valve does anyone know the part number and where I could get one? Thanks, Adam

You'll notice that the casting comes into the combustion chamber a bit around the spark plug, on all the head pics that have been posted so far. On the later versions of the E88, this was left smooth. That is to say that the profile stays round in the spark plug area and there is not notch into the combustion chamber.

Thanks, I am going to go with the first one, mostly because its built and ready to go.

Ok, if I look around the internet I find alot of different comments about E88 heads. I know that there were early e88 heads that were similar to the e31. The way to tell is by the notch around the spark plug. But I seem to have two of them that have different combustion chambers. Any insights?

Well it looks like I need a complete head rebuilt. I was wondering about putting larger valves in my E88. I have heard that this is a great way to increase flow. I am running a L24 engine. Do you run into the same problems as with an N42 head on an L24. That is, will I have to notch the block to make it fit? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Adam

My first is a 71 240Z I bought just a few months ago. I got screwed by the previous owner (my fault for trusting the guy) and now im stuck with a "freshly rebuilt head" that has a burnt valve, several bent valves, broken valve guides, among several other perculiar things. I cant wait until I finally have a chance to drive one of the fine cars.

Oh wow.. ya... . well, sure... but I guess I should thank E Racer for the quick answer

Just out of curiosity, Whats the accepted cut-off for Series 1 Cars?

HAHA, yeah I guess that does sound a little funny. Anyways, thats for clearing that up for me Zbane. I didnt think it was anything, but I also didnt want any unexpected problems