superfunk

Pefect, just what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the post... and all the posts lately. Really helping this car come together

So looking at how everything fits together I need a starter to match my tranny. That'd be simple, if I knew what tranny was on my car. Its a '71, but somewhere along the line a 5 speed was shoved in there, the PO says it was out of a mid 76 or 77 i think... .. but his information has been less that reliable. soooooom, here's the question. I notice that starters stay the same from 70-77, thats fine and I'll get one of those if thats what my car needs. But then they change, will this earlier starter still fit on a later tranny, or does the fit change as well. Im hoping someone will have a quick simple answer for me that doesnt involve me jacking the car up and crawling under there in the rain and mud. OH yeah, I know I could just pull a part number off the old starter, but the number seems to be rubbed off (maybe it was stolen and the theif filed off the serial number ).... Thanks,

Thanks... yeah... I was staring right at it. Thought it was just a wire, didnt notice the two connectors on it. I've been working with a 72 wiring diagram that shows another at the alternator, Im guess that this was not on the 71, so good, one less thing to find. It wasnt blown, turns out im an idoit. Im kinda embarrassed, but I forgot to plug the wires back into the ignition switch. Not too sure how I missed that one. Thanks for the reply, at least I know where the fusible link is now.

I shorted something today and heard the started click, now the car wont start. So my thought was that the fusible link has blown. I pop the hood and look for it, I cant find any. Can someone post a picture of the fusible links in a 71 240z. I would really appreciate it, I may have been looking right at it an not realized. Otherwise, Im pretty sure sometime during my cars life the fusible links have been removed. Thanks

I pulled my combo switch out today. I gave it a quick test, and everything seemed to be working. My Ohm meter isnt all that precise, but it was showing zero for the connections im concerned with. My question is about the tail lights (i guess thats the same circuit as parking lights). There is a power wire going to the headlight side that connects when I turn on the headlights. Then there are two green wires on the other side of the switch. They connect at the parking light and headlight positions. The power does not go to these wires. This is correct right?. Where does the power come from for this circuit. Is it the same power supply as the front marker lights? If so, where, physically in the car, do these circuits split from front to rear. Also, I just noticed a sort of dimmer switch under the dash to the right of the steering wheel. Does this control the intensity of the interior light only? Its not in my wiring diagram (chilton). Any input on these points would be appreciated Thanks, Adam

Ok, I got both my headlights working, high and low beams... YEAH! But it cost me..... I lost my tail lights. My turn signal will only work with my headlights off. The tail lights used to work, I'm gonna do a bunch more investigating to get that straightened out. But the turn signal has kinda got me confused... Does that sound like a Combo Switch problem to you? Thanks, Adam

WOW!! Zs Thanks for that post. You saved me a heck of alot of figuring out whats going on and which wire is doing what. I probably wont have time until saturday to tackle this, but it should be a breeze with all the info you gave me there... Once again, thanks. Adam

Well I replaced both my lights today with new haolgens. Nothing has changed. A quick check with a voltmeter shows no power going to the light. Fuse is good, and I replaced it/cleaned the contacts to make sure. So I guess im chasing the wiring. Any tips?

Ok, that comment is kinda scaring me... How bad are these headlight circuits? Is it a problem with the switch heating up. Im not sure how stock my wiring is because looking at it, it seems to have been hacked at a few too many times.. its a real mess. Anyways, the basic operating of these relay conversion circuits? Do you take the power that would go to the lights and use that to activate the relay which will have the lights on a different high amperage circuit. This would protect the switch.

Cool, thanks. I'll definately keep that in mind when I do finally go ahead and upgrade my alternator. For now, Im just going to pick up a regulator. Thanks, Adam

Thanks, Thats was exactly the info I was looking for. I'm going to get some new lights tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how it works out. Adam Oh, and by the way, its a '71

Hey, Just finishing up my final little things to get this car on the road. I was checking my lights and determined that my brights werent working properly. My driver side light it burnt out. The passenger side will light up, but will not switch to brights. When I hit the switch, the light get slightly brighter, but it is just as if more current is going to the bulb and its not switching bulb circuits like it should. Anyone have ideas how to fix this. I have the electrical diagram from chilton but its pretty much useless. I konw that on old VW vans goofy things would happen if you had a burnt lightbulb. Will this fix when we replace the lightbulb, or do I have to dig through the wiring to fix this. Thanks, Adam

Its a fairly new battery. The ammeter sits mear zero at idle right after start up. It only goes up when I rev the engine. It will go up to near 40 if I rev it high, and fall back near zero at idle. This is while running minimal electrics. Turning on lights or radio has a minimal effect on the gauge. Also 14-15 volts at the battery, is that too much? -Adam

Im going to stick with the alternator for now. It seems to be working fine, and I cant justify buying a new one at this very moment. Just a couple things I thought I should clear up. It is always on the positive side. Also, my battery froze (oops) and this is hapening after thawing it out and putting a good charge on it. Could the battery be messed and causing that? Either way, im going to get a regulator.. just curious.

Thanks, Thats what I had figured, I guess its time to go find a regulator for this baby

Hi, I'm not familiar with this ammeter in the car, more use to voltmeters. I start the car and it runs well. When I rev the engine, the ammeter follows. It does not go past about 40amps, but its following the revs of the engine. Putting a voltmeter to the battery shows 14-15 volts, again raising with the revs, but not going much over 15. Is this normal, or is it a sign of an electrical problem... volt regulator, bad connections, etc .. oh yeah, its a '71 and has the original style external regulator. Thanks, Adam

Thanks Arne... I did a bit more searching.. and found itm so I guess I dont have to make one. Mine measured in a 5.5mm. Thanks,

Ok, Im an Idiot. I got my car going, but I now realize that there should be a spacer between the head and the mech fuel pump, something the stupid previous owner forgot to put back. I had one kicking around in the spares he gave me. I put it in a really clever place, so I would remember to put it in before starting the engine again. Well, I forgot where that clever place is, and am now without this spacer. No big deal, I plan on making one using a gasket as a template, shouldnt be that hard. The big question is, how thick? Also, just for information, what does this spacer do? I have read a few times that its very important to have it. I ran the car without it for about 10mins, and everything seemed fine. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Adam

Interesting... the doors changed over the years... I would like to know more.

I paid what I think is too much.. 5000 for a straight rust free car........ needs alot of interior and paint... . but it was just what I am looking for. And clean Zs are hard to come by in Canada...especially Ontario.. where the roads are made of salt.

Damn that looks nice... At least alot nicer that my oil covered block that I wont be able to pull and build for a while now. I cant wait until I get the Chance (time and money) to do that... .

I like the Chiltons manual becuase it tires to cover 18 years of the cars that are completely different.. But yeah, I'm also looking for a FSM for a '71, if you find a decent source let me know.

I've had that happen on older cars before. I believe term for it is Dieseling. Not too sure what causes it, but its pretty much just the momentum of your engine keeping it going. I'm sure someone here knows exactly what causes it and how to stop it.

I just got my head machined by a well respected machinist in town. It came back painted. I remember him saying something about the paint, but I cant quite remember what it was. I think it was just a finish so you dont have a tarnished aluminum look on your head after a few months.

I'd be 22. I think we're going to find a big divide between the "younger" and "old...er... more matured" z owners