WingZr0

Your welcome, perfect timing huh, its supposed to rain tomorrow . ~Z~

Yeap, sounds like your pumps shot mate, might as well do the Fuel Damper too which is next the pump. You most likely need to clean out your tank and fuel lines and rails, specially if the old gas was gooey. That sound likely the fuel pump struggling. You read The Horse or Back Street Choppers by chance

OK, NGK Japan contacted, awaiting reply..

Looks like i'll have to get in touch with NGK Japan direct. Think I have a idea how to get some Nissan support while i'm at it. Stay tuned.

Yeah, they pass pretty easy. Theses around 46 in my town half of which are drivers and plenty of 76 and up 280Z's running around.

Zparts.com has alot. Searce ebay and you'll see alot of JDM stuff going for cheap, mostly in 14 and 15 inch sizes. Craigslist and HybridZ too. Theres way more sites just have to take your time and book mark the net. Z

Yeah only us grunts at the concession both. Popcorn and peanuts for us, Big checks for them. Damn corner offices ! I'll have to do some recruting then at the lower levels. Some day we'll storm the top

UPDates ! OK 1st I'm just looking at that silver fairlady for the first time on a real computer and that thang is beautiful Alright now heres whats cracking, I got the green light on the F1 ANSA decal ! So I can go ahead and start making those, if your interested please let me know by posting here and if enough interest I can put something together. Keep in mind theres is a cover on the one in the pic and the colors are a very vibrant Green, Red and Blue ( Italy's colors) with a nicley detailed F1 car that has the ANSA name in the middle or air dam and is reversed to mount inside of a windshield. If we should not make it for a windshield and just go with the normal fender or face side up mount instead let me know that too. Aslo maybe make it bigger than the size shown. The Big red ANSA shield logo is lawyered up and the yellow square ansa sticker is/will no lnger be made. Check this out, when Fiat (of all people) bought Ferarri they said ANSA can no longer put "their" Ferarri name on the mufflers. :eek: Lastly with NGK I left 3 measages with the guy in charge and still no replies. I even called again today 3 hours ago and still no word yet. I might have to take this up with Nissan and cite the fairladies need for an upgrade OK To be continue. . . . ~Z~ ~Z~

Your joking! I paid 2 grand for mine and that was before I even touched it. The newly rebuilt engine alone was $3,000 and with the clutch another 1,700. You should get at least 10K for yours. Be strong my brother

The higher fifth gear sounds good but i always liked the idea of the old drag racer style 4 speed. Just for reference Is there a lower 5th gear than came in the 77, 78 Z?

It's only Hijacking if it's completly off topic . Your questions helped give me some new insights.

MSA list it as a 'Front Door Seal' part #34-1103 and 34-1104 page 139 in the book on the car drawing. Its a ten dollar part. Let the gasket sealant dry about 2 hours then check for total tight fit then use a water hose to test it. Sit in the passanger seat as the hose still runs on the roof to see if and where it leaks again. That or buy the new part which we'll both need to do anyway. If it rains and all fails tape off the door with a trash big. You definately want to get that frame looked at though.

I think I know exactly what you have. Check the rubber wheather stripping on the far foward part on the top of the door. The rubber piece just ahead of the window frame between the edge the of door. It should be thin and roughly triangle in shape, like a bike ramp viewed from the side. If thats broke or cracked from age then rain water will spill down over the inner door panel and land right where all your rust is. The rubber piece is supposed to seal between the door and body to catch the rain coming off the drip rail on the roof and send it down past to the outter door jamb and run off the floor sill where the Datun logo is then on to the ground. Had this happen this year in my Z and since built up a layer of gasket sealent as a temporary fix. Eventually you need to get this part from MSA.

No not yet, she's still parked in the driveway. In the same spot . Found a few more things since then like the leaky clutch slave AATCO Transmission said they replaced but didn't cause it's the same old one it started with. So now for safe measure I have to replace the master and slave for that. Then later the front input shaft seal in the tranny decided to give out so now I'm slowly leaking gear oil out the bellhousing , another thread started on that, and that was with the car just sitting there. At least that part was after it sat for a month fore had it gave out while been driven the gear oil would've gotten on the clutch disc then that would have to been replaced too. Before this all I needed was brakes, or so I thought. Guess the next to go is the shocks and springs . So she's gonna sit covered till I can afford to fix, and replace, everything at once. Least I know the problems now.

Thats what you'll need alright 70 and 76. The 77 and 78 arms and blades or black that much I know, but differently shaped not sure.

Got hold of my ANSA friends and will know more hopefully in the morning. The guy I needed to speak with at NGK was out of office today so hoping to track him down tomorrow too.

. Knowing Nissan problely not for a lack of trying and because maybe they didn't have a original to base a copy off of. Notice all the fine details not on the one from the car no more. I've scoured the net up and down in all possible word combinations and couldn't find even a vaguely worded description of this decal, let alone a picture, other than the Fairlady site. And that was cause the seller knew what race they were from. So im guessing they were a one race only print and the originals don't have any makers marks on the back.

Oh wow Mike thats the car! Its so faded it looks gold. Suprised it stayed on all those years during those other races.

Lastly, if you can afford it, replace off your connector plugs. All of them. Theres about 10 or 11 of them and they are all the same as the ful injector plugs. They are the 6 FI plugs, cold start valve, water temp sensor and so forth. MSA has all those plugs at $8 each. Member Sblake can maybe help with the TPS sensor plug as its one not sold after market. Have your engine builder solder on the new plugs in place of the old ones, no need in messing around with old plugs with faulty connections, aka non working fuel injectors, on a new engine. That should take care of your minor basics . ~Z~

Well far as this part of your problem with oil in the water, if your over heating them your head gasket's blown or the block deck or head warped. When my water temp sensor was bad it felt like my Z was running hot, I mean with the hood up and looking at the engine, to the point of almost excessive. But when the electric fan kicked in at 160 degres all the heat was INSTANTLY evacuated. Pretty much saving the HG for my water is still oil free, this will work for you for sure. Your radiator might be done too cousing over heat so save yourself the the same amount of cash instead of boiling it out and get the aluminum that will work way more better to start alone by itself.

DAMMMN ! Was teaching my 17 year cusin the same thing not long befor the law up. She did good though so I tell her she'll make an excellent drag racer, keeping the revs high between shifts made me proud and she peeled out a few times . But she still had the usual stalling in 1st though . Sorry to hear about the tranny. Sounds like you had a Domino Grenade, one thing broke which lead to anothere one shattering so on and so forth. IMO anything could've popped the seal, it's my understanding it don't take much to destroy a tran or clutch like that. The things you say may need replacing are correct if for no other reason than preventive maintenance. But the clutch may just need to be taking out and cleaned off is what i'm guessing. Othere members will know more of course than me from experience and will hopefully chime in.

Well my driving is not overly aggressive, at least not in this case since I was still breaking the engine in. Keep in mind the clutch is also new with the same amount of miles as the engine at 1274 miles. Since it needed brakes now i was doing more stopping by down shifting for less than a week and I could smell clutch for the first time. Figured this cause the clutch was still new and was still breaking in, so thats when the car was parked 2 months ago. Since then thats how Noticed a leaky clutch slave and then after sitting in the same spot for a month thats when the red stuff started dripping. I have been going out and sitting in the car at nights to clear my head sometimes and be rowing through the gears. Most likely thats what threw the seal out so hopefully theres nothing on the clutch disk. Fix one thing, two more breaks.

BTW spring for a new water temp sensor too. If thats acting up it'll cause fuel enrichment issues causing mis fires, possible other issues and eventually the oil will start to smell like gasoline. So 30 bucks will prevent that. The cylinder head thing from earlier usually happens during the first 1,000 miles of breaking in the engine. ~Z~

Hi bro, we have the same year Z's . Mines is a newly rebuilt engine to with only 1,274 miles on it. Heres my bit of advice, the stock injectors will work more than fine so get new ones or have the old ones rebuilt. And also your head may loosen from the block, you'll see a little sipping from the passanger side head gasket. Don't trip it's just means the head bolts need to be retorqued, your head gaskets not blown. Also I would surly get a new aluminum radiator and electric fan from MSA. Pratically gurantees you won't ruin the new engine due to over heating. Thats what I have and my engine runs well on the cold side ALL DAY LONG, city or freeway.

Found a diagram of the input shaft in the Vic Brit cataloge, now i know exactly what ya'll mean. Thanx guys ~Z~