WingZr0

Heres the pics of it I was asked for with the box and part numbers. Photbucket pics link here -> Speedo Pics Hopefully the info I have about it being for a 6/73 car is correct. Thanks.

HaHa, this thing's not going to fit in my oven , it's like 28 inches long. So what oven did you use, is there a paint that doesn't need curing? On the way to up load the pics I took now. Should be up in a hour or two. Discovered a new polishing technique since the pics were taking which pretty much took off all the dirt from the chrome, so they're even more shinyer now .

If you need new wiper blades call Motor Sport Auto or order from them online. You can't find the blades at say Wal Mart (told me my car was to old) or your average parts store. But they, MS Auto, has the whole wiper blade assembly for around 20 bucks.

He can find that kind of Z easy, just stay off ebay for the most part and hit up Craigslist. You'll see Z's worth five to six thousand selling for three to four. It all comes down to a person who simply wants to sell or someone who don't really know what they have. For example last month I seen a low miles, super clean, one owner 1979 Silver 280ZX 5 speed with Red interior being sold for $1,000 ! Can't guarantee a non cracked dash though .

So when you gettin your license so you can take that Z to the drag strip . Lake Os huh, so what's the Hot Rod scene look like there?

Welp, back to ebay and craigslist. Seriously though keep the faith bro, you can find alot better with just 2 Grand alone.

If you can recieve picture on your cell phone I can send you a picture text of my Zs' frame rails outside. Uhh, never mind

These things look SiC on a Z! . I just did a mock up on my 280z just to see what it looks like and if a retro fit was even possible and took pics with my camera and camera phone. It wouldn't take much at all for a muffler shop to fab a new hanger bracket and have the 1.75 inch inlet meet up with the rest of the Z's exhaust line. The inlet pipe can be cut off and replaced with a 2 inch pipe for later Z's such as my 280. It pretty much fits perfectly in the stock mufflers' location! Well if anyone has a phone that can accept picture text and would like to see how they turned out then you can text me at 5307011244 and I'll send you the pics. Or wait till Tuesday when I can load them up to a PC .

Welcome bro . 280Z only went up to year 1978. In 1979 it became the 280ZX. There are lots of good Z's around, try looking on Ebay of course and Craigslist California, New Mexico, Texas and Arizona for starters. I'll keep my eyes peeled for you cause there are at least 40 in my town alone . ~Z~

Can anyone recommended a good quality high heat paint? Finished cleaning up one Ansa now going to give a shot at repainting the inside of the pipes like brand new. Heading to Kragen Autoparts tomorrow and they said they got some at 6 to $10 a bottle. Might in to Auto Wood instead but don't know what brands are better than others.

OH Hell yeah, thats for me!

Head in arse! Found myself using that term more and more on other people, now I'm the butt of it ! My idea of engine braking was simply go to next lower gear and come straight off the clutch but at a low enough mph speed for that lower gear so when the clutch was released, for that one time only, the revs wouldn't redline. Shifting fast enough that way so the flywheel and trany speed still closely matched never made a burning smell and the clutch never slips. But that feathering stuff did a bad deed. And as the next post is pointing out, I believe I was down shifting WAY TO soon . What does HPDE mean now I need classes ? Thanks guys for helping me out; Case of the Head In arse, solved.

Well hopefully I didn't hurt it to bad since it was only the last 200 miles I drove that way. But still damn, can't believe I was doing that and to a new clutch. Thats just negligent abuse of a Z, hope my parole doesn't get revoked!

OHHH DAMN , guess I had that scalding coming ! Now that we understand each othere I thought I was doing a race technique called power braking, or do I have that concept wrong too? Learned how to shift like described in a 70's Honda Civic hatch back, also did it my 88 BMW 320i both of which I never smelled a burning clutch which is why I thoug it unusual.

Tried to find the thread were I was told/read that but couldn't. Basically what I gathered was with Poly Bushings when the stock springs compress they would put to much load on the Tie Rods because the Poly wouldn't have enough give to them and the Rods will snap from the travel length of the stock springs creating to much of a load. With stiffer springs the suspension travel is shorter hence the remedie to the problem. Theres a good thread called "Poly bushing : not worth it?" by Mikemerkury with lots of information on Poly Bushings and user experience of pro and cons. If you do go with poly I highly suggest you drill and tap for grease fittings to eliminate the squeaks you'll hear about.

So thats how you do it James? And is that a challenge I hear . Jim- I think you about got it. Thought I was doing it right, so what do they mean by "using the engine compression to assist in braking"? I explain a little more clearly EXACTLY what I'm doing. I'm going in a straight line on the highway at 75mph and see a red light ahead. I clutch in, hit the brakes shifting from 4th to 3rd, rpm's now at 2,000, at around 65mph I then let the clutch out a bit till rpm's hit 5,000 making the car stop quicker then put the clutch in again to let the revs drop (it's at this point I smell something), at 50 to 55mph I let the clutch out all the way in 3rd and revs hit about 4,500, then down shift in each consecutive gear as usual coming to a stop. Is it that I'm feathering the clutch too long and that I should actually brake to a lower speed other than 65mph untill I am able to just come straight off the clutch in 3rd or any other gear for that matter?

I was using that more as an extreme metaphore but I get what you mean about the potential to over rev. One of the main drags in this town is a highway, so when going from 4th I started to brake, clutch pedal in, let the revs drop about halfway then let out the clutch while still keeping the revs below 4 to 5 thousand. Only to assist in braking. Thought I'd phrase it that just to see if any shifting condition that made that burning smell was allowable which I'm now told is not.

Try looking at ArizonaZcar.com for one place that has better than OEM parts. Alot of them are race but some of thier things are actually good as replacements for stock but let the pros here chime in on what you really need to do. Plan on replacing all your bushings, if you use Polyurathane you need stiffer springs to shorten the suspension travel or you'll snap the tie rods. Or just rubber bushings on the tie rods instead.

I'm talking from top of fourth to third gear. Still something WAY wrong? Funny cause it's true, I'll pass it along

Thanks guys no worries on the flame bro haha, was just curious if I was missing something or not. Like said it works fine but I'll have those adjustments checked when a new trans goes in. Adjustments might of gone off a bit from the new enging install maybe. Pedal is set and still feels right though and takes 1/3rd travel distance to fully disengage. If the clutch is let out slow enough or I can match the revs then no smell, but come off to fast. . . Burn. So yeah, I'll use those brakes

I've searched but didn't find a answere. Question is is there a procedure for braking in a new stock clutch? I have a new engine with 1232 miles and clutch with 1500 miles. Is it normal to smell clutch when down shifting? AATCO who installed the clutch says there was no brake in needed. Reason I ask is because I been using the clutch to down shift more rather than using the brakes to stop. I'm not letting go of the clutch pedal all that fast but still get a little smell when ever I do down shift, or is this normal? Worked and still works fine for the first 1200 miles or at least untill I started paying attention once I started intentionally down shifting on purpose. Keep in mind the Z has been parked for awhile and since that time a month later I was rowing through the gears and broke the front input shaft seal in the transmission and begun leaking fluid out the bell housing. But the car was parked a month before that happened and hasn't been driven since so doubt that is related to the question. Thanks Z

Yep, if it is what it is that it's a fair price. The average "low" price for a clean running Z in cali is about $4,000. And thats for stock minus this cars' upgrades. As mentioned just check for the rust and remember the little details like seats and stuff you can always change.

The jokes keep coming .Might wanna correct your thread your title, we're pretty sure someone can use your service.

Both Celica ANSA's arrived today and just two hours right after my 2nd Rally Calendar Clock! The Ansa's look great, just some small pitting on the chrome and need of new Red Shield logos but they'll polish out great for a daily driver. Were sitting on a storage shelf for like 25 or 30 years! Will check tomorrow to see if they'll retro fit on a Z. Good thing I happened to take my stock muffler off earlier today already, since I'm back to prototyping a new Twin Stack Ansa for the Z with measurements took to blueprint the originals . Wow so Toyota never really made a direct challanger to the Z then? Unless they were made to battle the S20 motor. They just look to be born enemies. And Langford how'd you wrap your 510?

What state is Tuscon in?