WingZr0

To also note after the rebuild I never had that issue again. Not that this lack of pressure was ever noticeable but 600 miles or so after the rebuild while still in the engine break in phase it seemed like that problem was coming back though it never stalled. Just seemed like it was slow to respond a couple times trying to accelerate in 2nd gear. The second occurrence being worst than the first. Thats when I finally noticed the Fuel Damper was leaking after smelling gas from the back tire, seeing the leak drops but never catching it in the act untill investigating with the engine running. Once the damper was replaced I finally had 100% solid power back and no more "stalling" related issues. Hope this helps.

Sounds like eradict fuel pressure issue. Had a similar problem once but don't know what it was since the engine was rebuilt to solve that and other issues at the same time. Let me guess, your driving along, everything's fine then all of a sudden quite. Your pumping on the gas, nothing is happening then it just revs on back alive like normal. There was a bunch of other VERY bad things wrong with my car but even after the rebuild my mechanic who did the engine still said there was a lack of power and fuel pressure at around 2500RPM untill about 3000 or so then the pressure came back. He saw it with a fuel pressure gauge. Look at the fuel pressure regulator and fuel damper by fuel pump first, if damper is leaking then there you go. Keep in mind that when the diaphram in the damper goes out it does not always constantly leek so put your hand up in there while the engine is running and feel around for wet gas. Also keep an eye on it for awhile to spot and smell for leaking gas. How old is the fuel pump itself.

Every Z is worth saving, you just have to kill your wallet in the process . ~Z~

Hi Dan, I ain't forgot about you . I was gonna suprise you when I was done . Finally found an ex Ansa guy to help assemble the parts with my blueprint drawings and various specs for member Tim Z. Won't have the final version done untill Thursday when it warms up again to 66 degress. We have a big storm coming and it's already below 60 according to the Weather Channel. VHT says the paint won't stick correctly below 60. Just need to do the Ribbons and Inner Outlet. Already sanded and masked off those areas but masking the chrome from the outlet paint required pin stripper precision. Been documenting the build with High Res pics but won't have those up till Friday, but I text'd you some crappy camera phone pics in the meantime. Oh and I also got those Big Red ANSA Stickers made you were looking for too . ~Z~

Nice . Forgive me bro as I'm using a cell phone with tiny pictures but is that Black or Burgundy and are those tail lights different? Also there is a blog page option you can start to show your project build. Check the user control panel and such, several members have started one but lots of dedicated threads are on here too, usually they naturally start in the introduce yourself and open discussion forums so you should be fine. Oh yeah, and welcome

A NOS Black Pearl decal set was on ebay a few years ago. Nothing's impossible, everything turns up with time. Just have to be patient and keep checking ebay, the entire internet and talk and ask the people you deal with when buying or selling parts. Thats how alot of my leads to rare stuff happens. That and the old folk on Craigslist ,

Also worth noting, you know how you supposed to turn on the paint first AND THEN glide over what your painting? Well towards the end I made the mistake of turning on the nosel directly over the Ansa and made a runny circle at point blank range. So waiting a second I quickly added a couple of blend coats that didn't do no good, the circle was still there. Any more paint would only add to the problem. So I stepped out in the sun and saw that it dries way faster AND the paint decided it was going to dry evenly anyway! I'll let the Black dry for the next 4 hours and add in the Orange and Red Ribbon Paint tomorrow. Awesome stuff Andy, Thanks

Heh Andy, I can't thank you enough for that recommendation of that VHT Flameproof paint! Just painted the Stainless Steel section and that stuff goes on smooth. Layed the Ansa flat then hit with 2 light coats and waited a quick second, rolled it right side up and got all the top areas and waited another second, then rolled it over flat on the other side then hit that wit 2 light coats. Rolled it around to check for runs and spread the paint even, then went back to the previous side and repeated the process in reverse hitting it a little more heavier. The area being painted was over hanging off a small box BTW and everything else was masked off.

Don't know if you thought about it or not but do you need the light inside of ashtry? Don't know if all Z's have it but my 77 does, never worked though.

Lastly, whew this's alot of typing , I can make this in several different appearance styles. Reads like an options list . All Chrome look meaning no Red Ribbon or Red Ansa Shield logos, with or without Red Ribbon, with or without Red Shield logos, Gloss Black inner outlet paint or Flat Ansa Orange, Black painted extended "Ferrari style" Y-pipe section or I can leave that part Stainless Steel Silver which I admit is a pretty cool look . Just need to know the inlet size wanted and intended horsepower goals for those interested. Ok, I'll post pics when I can . ~Z~

Secondly, and this is the main reason, to eliminate the over under routing of the exhaust which serves no intended purpose. The stock exhaust from the Nissan factory has the inlet hole on the top half of the muffler or above the centerline of the mufflers cross section. The original Ansa's where a over under to keep it a direct bolt on cause of where the exhaust line was located once the factory muffler was removed. Now with these the inlet is ON the center line of the Twin Stacks cross section. So when you remove the rear most hanger you can raise the TS (Twin Stack) just enough to where it virtually lines up and slips on the exhaust line eliminating the over under bend creating a straight line and a freer flowing exhaust. Thats how I designed the prototype. Also if your replacing the entire exhaust line I can make the inlet closer to the rear to eliminate that funky S Curve the exhaust takes once it clears the differential to mate with the stock muffler. Meaning you can creat a more direct route to the TS.

I intentionally didn't make it a direct bolt on for 2 reasons. One, since on my Z the rear most hanger bracket hangs way to low in my opinion. I suggest removing that bracket having a muffler shop fab a new one, this way you can raise up the pipe and adjust the look further in, out or snug up against the lower rear valance as you like. And since the diameter of these pipes are a little bigger than the originals it will seem that much lower so you'll want that extra bit of clearance.

Outlet is noticeably bigger too at 1.5 inches for both upper and lower pipe. Pretty much used the blueprints I drew from the originals to get the exact look right (once mounted) and also make it flow better. Used stainless steel on the extended section for it's rust resistance, but I'll paint it Black to match rest of the pipe. Heres the catch though, it's more expensive to make than the originals. If you live in the 48 states it cost $400 shipped to your door to make. That includes all price of parts, paint, all polishing, assembly, correct placement of NOS shield logos since they're almost always slightly incorrect according to the blueprints or messed up, shipping and any restoration cost. The pics will always speak for themselves

Yeah I'm on the hunt too . But all of my leads for more since finding my last batch of 19 have not pand out. So for sure I'm making more, I have a set for myself already buffed, polished and restored ready to be assembled , and I have enough parts to make 30 to 35 more Twin Stacks. The "restrictiveness" of the originals some complain about have been solved since I can make the inlet diameter 1.75 inches for stock 240Z size up to 3.5 inches for higher horse power cars.

Heh John, the product reviews seem positive. Ten good reviews and no negitives. Might be worth the price if you can get with paying that much unless theres an alternative as Blake is pointing out. And yes flipping something on ebay's always easy!

THA HELL? Did you come up with that? I see you mention Stig, truely some serious dedication

Thanks so much for that lead! They didn't have gloss in any of colors I needed, even on VHT website, but I did pick up that Flame Proof Flat Orange SP114; and it's a dead set for the main shade of ANSA Orange . Mailed the Celica Ansa's to Japan already but going to paint the first Twin Stack Ansa prototype I custom built yesterday instead

I just finished building my FIRST ANSA Twin Stack Prototype yesterday ! . Built it for a fellow member. Took some liberty and made the inlet pipes longer for a more "Burblely" sound. Similar to what I've seen on the early 60's to 70's Ferrari's. Has the same Slash Cut Slant Chrome style as the Originals with a 2 inch diameter inlet. Could of made it a possible 5 inces for something stupid if I wanted too . And I used vintage Ansa parts! Will post some pics when I'm done painting it over the weekend and ad more details as well . ~Z~

Camo I'm letting myself get caught up on the technicals here , my bad. But yeah I was thinking of the Inline Four engines as being in the trucks and roadsters only. The Fairlady I saw was a Green rust bucket on ebay 2 years ago. It had what appeared to be infact a S20 engine, so I assumed that was a L20A seeing how it wasn't a 432, But the L20A is a 4 cylinder right? Anyhow back on topic follow Arnes advice, get one from the west coast, they're better and cheaper. If Floriday is closer to you then go for it, but remember thats a hurricane state so rust from a flooded car is possible. You've got eyes in Racerville, CA.

Thank you JelloBob! Thats exactly what I was coming back to say, "Walk!". Theres know way he can swear up and down on what he knows he has absolutly no proof of, physical or otherwise. Ask him for documentation or where you can go and read more information about a GT Fairlady Z. His response will be funny as he lies out of it. Yeah dude the car is worth 5 to 8 grand here in California. Check ebay and Craigslist in the rust free States and have one shipped to you or drive it back home. Check your import tax and other procedures to bring a car into Canada. You know what your right I always think of the L20A as being in the Datsun trucks and Fairlady Roadsters only. Does the L20A and S20 look similar? I recal almost buying a Fairlady with a engine that looked like a S20. You know with the sparkplugs down the center.

By the way the 432 and 432R were the racing versions of this car. They were factory prepared race versions sold to racing teams and privatears. Do a search here and on IZCC.com for more great info . The 240ZG was the aerodynamic version with a sleek more cone like nose design much like the Dodge Daytona Charger or the Plymouth Superbird. A member here, Alan, owns a 240ZG aka ZG. And another member named Kats owns a 432. The 432's are super rare and sale for CRAZY money, often considered by many to be the epitome of classic Japanese sports cars sort of like the 1970 Chevelle SS454 LS6 is to muscle cars over here in the states. The car looks good but people set on wrong information were either misinformed by thier previous owner, or they're lying which means no matter how clean the car looks they could be lying about something else. Buyer Be Ware.

Look, just tell the seller to get online and search for Skyline GTR badges on google or even better on ebay if he wants proof and still refuses to believe you. If he really wants to sale you the car he'll come down in price once he sees they are Skyline GTR badges. But if you cought him in a lie then he'll refuse to search the badges and say he'll call you back and never will. Tell him to come here to the site and talk to the guys who actually know the history of these cars and see what he says to that. The engine is a L series and NOT the S20, far as I know the only Fairlady with a L engine was the "Fairlady 240ZG" that had the L24 inline six. A completly different type of Z car. Theres only seven versions of the Z. Those are the Datsun 240Z 260Z and 280Z, Nissan Fairlady Z, Nissan Fairlady 240ZG, Nissan Fairlady 432 and 432R which was the supp'd up version of the already crazy 432. Ever find out what the VIN number was? Is he the original owner?

I agree with the last post. First thing that drew my mind was lack of the original S20 engine, or Fairlady Z engine in Japan incase you didn't know that. Is the engine a inline 6 or something else? Sounds like someone played around on ebay and bought a GT badge from a Skyline GT-R and a set of Fairladies too. NOT worth $10,000 unless you plan to put it all back to JDM stock, even then it has to be SUPER LOW VIN car for that price. Oh yeah, and it also helps to know that some of the members here know the actual guys who designed AND built the Z car and they never designed nor built a "GT Fairlady Z".

Your navigation bars changes from page to page. There was a link on transmissions and I can't find the page on L28 rebuilding tips anymore. Was those pages dropped? I thought they were very helpful.

Awesome! I like the Blue on Black background, reminds of of my own parts store website. The white on gray is a bit hard to read though. Ok i'm going back to do some more reading now