Matches

OK updates at long last. After following the advice of xray and Arnie, it seemed as though the rotor was way off mark. So I dropped the oil pump and fussed with things until I got it right. Here are photos of my results: See the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire, and the crank pulley timing mark @ the zero point. When like this, the cam shaft looks like this: 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock right? So everything is properly aligned for TCD right? Spark plug wires go just like the photo xray posted. STILL WON'T START! Is it time for me to buy a compression tester or am I still missing something? New cap and rotor, ignition coil is only a few months old, new spark plugs and wires, carbs are rebuilt from Z Therapy and where running great on my old engine exactly as the are set now. I know there is fuel because there is fuel on the spark plugs after cranking. I know there is spark because I grounded out each plug and cranked and looked for spark. Got it. Looks weak, but I figure its an old car and that is probably what it looks like. Thanks so much for all the help so far. This is really frustrating. -Matt

Ok, so I will check again with the valve cover off to see what points where. With the valve cover on, I was fairly certain that I did have TCD on #1 with the rotor pointing where it should, but the timing mark on the crank pulley was way advanced. I know I have fuel because it comes out the fuel return line if I disconnect it, and spark because I took out the plugs and tested each one by grounding it and cranking the motor. Thanks for the help guys

Replacement engine is in and cranking, but not starting. Can't even hear it trying to catch. Spark plugs are in the correct order, have spark and fuel. Trying to figure out if the ignition timing is good or not. With the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire, the timing mark on the crank pulley is WAY advanced. Looks like it would be +40 or 50 degrees. I pulled the valve cover to see if timing marks could help me figure things out. I could not make heads or tails of it So when I see these white painted marks ( no mark on the chain, but a 3 stamped on the cam gear ) The rotor is here My best guess is, something is wrong. :stupid: Can anyone help me sort this out? I really don't want to have to tow my Z to a mechanic!

I will undoubtedly insult who ever owns #299, but WTF where you thinking with that bumper? Is it even made for a Z car? Looks like it goes on a Doge Neon or a Honda Civic and someone just bolted it on. Garbage.

What is the difference between the metal fuel lines and metal brake lines? Its just a steel tube right?

I did not change the oil pump, but I did swap the distributors. It could be 180 degrees out. Going to have more time to work on the car soon. Thanks for all the help guys!

HAH nicely done. I labeled all the wires and just left them attached to the distributer cap for this very reason. I have not checked the float level. I had new Z Therapy carbs on the last motor that I had tuned well. I just pulled the whole intake manifold and didn't fuss with anything at all, so I am assuming that nothing has changed there. How wrong can I be about that? Signs are pointing to timing. Going to have a look at that today hopefully. Thanks guys!

Power; check Got fuel Got spark Oil pressure good Cranking easy Spark plug wires connected correctly Going to try some starter fluid tomorrow. Any advice?

Got it all hooked up and a friend came by to give me a jump. Not starting. Off to the search function!

You guys rule.

Thanks for taking the time to respond Jim. I am a decent mechanic actually, but I am terrible about remembering where things go, especially wires. I label everything as a pull it off, but with these I must have figured too basic to bother with! Oh well. Thanks for the advice as well. Test starting various projects over the years I have: left a wrench on the crank pully bolt, had fuel spray all over, massive coolant leaks, oil leaks, and anything else that is possible to leak do so. Wires caught on fire, beer spills blah blah blah. These days I am very careful about looking things over before hooking up power!

This has got to be one of the dumbest things I have done, hence one of the dumbest questions I have to ask now. I have am finishing up an engine swap. Everything is in and connected and I am just about ready to fire up the motor. HOWEVER. I have completely forgotten where the battery cables go! And for whatever reason, it is not obvious to me. Wiring diagrams are not helping because basically I need a picture. Positive cable from the battery goes to the starter right? Where does it attach to the starter? Negative cable has a big bolt going through it. Ground to the bell housing? Sorry for this really lame question and thanks for any help. :stupid:

Alright thanks. I thought that maybe the corrosion had been happening for a while and the impact finished the job. I really don't feel like putting a band aid on that old motor. I will be looking for a long block to swap in. That will probably the cheapest and quickest option. Which of course means the longest and most expensive.

They must not be loading for you, try this: http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c121/GoonDriver/DSC_0002-4.jpg http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c121/GoonDriver/DSC_0001-2.jpg

Driving the other night I hit one of those steel plates road crews put down after digging a hole. It was sticking out pretty far and I didn't have time to slow down by the time I saw it, hit it, and the car bottomed out really hard. Right after the car started running terribly and a huge cloud of white smoke ( steam mostly ) was billowing out from behind me. Checking things out, at first I thought the headers had hit the thermostat housing because I was missing a manifold stud right there. After re-sealing the thermostat housing water was still gushing out, soaking the intake/exhaust gasket and making a huge hole. Obviously I was going to have to replace the gasket now, plus I wanted to see if I could tell if something else was wrong. Pulling everything off that side of the head, this hole revealed its self. Best guess is it goes through to the water jacket. Can anyone tell me if that hole is there on all E88 heads? Also, I now have water coming out of the exhaust port there, and water in the oil. Last time I ran it it was making a horrible noise that sounded like something knocking, but I just can't be sure because of the big nasty exhaust leak right there making different sounds hard to pick out. At this point I am thinking the engine is trashed. Thoughts? Thanks

Wow what a project! Looking great so far

1 Hotness St. Bonertown, USA

Ok last photo, of the BRE style air dam. This camera shows the color much better.

Enigma is correct. Sport Max I was told there was a small batch of gold. I personally think the gold looks great with the green. I have a BRE style front air dam and all the badges to go on. After that, the car needs to be lower! Thanks for all the compliments. I couldn't be happier

I am so happy! 113 Green Metallic. Not year correct I know, but I just love the color. Better photos later when I have my camera

Wow what a project. Looks like they would have had to replace just about everything. Dunno why they just didn't take the VIN plate off and stick it on another car. With that much work needed, the end result is probably just about the same!

Wow hot car! Thanks for the pic. Helping put me at ease already....

Thanks, but I have found that. Its where I got the paint code in the first place. The color does not look very metallic in those photos, in person it is much brighter. Its just a big decision That I don't want to regret. I am sure I will love it when I see it.

So the car is in the paint shop. I have a day or so before the color is set in stone. I told them 113 green metallic, even though its not year correct, I have always liked the photos of the color I saw. ( I have a 1970 ) But they showed me a sample and its REALLY bright and metallic! Anyone have some good photos ( I have scoured the gallery here ) that really show how the color looks? Thanks!

Mac. Comes up as a quicktime file. Sounds like you used windows media compression algorithm? Classic windows aliasing sound