zKars

The first set are 15x6 "swaztika's" from an 82 or 83 ZX turbo. The second set are the commonly found "D-slot" alloy mags (14 x 6 ?) on 195/75 -14's, put on by dealers to boost profits. Several manufacturers are possible, look at the back to see if there are markings. In restored condition, both are sought after and do indeed seem to be ~$200 ish a set. Cost of professional restoration of these to this price level is typically more than $200, unless you spend many hours doing it by hand yourself. Put them up on the classifieds and start with $200 then drop the price every few days until you find out what they are worth. Its called market research.

Steve is correct, 78 had no ballast and no provision to actually use it "no ballast in crank, but ballast when run" configuration, but thats ok. It just means you won't get the little boost in spark energy while starting. First question to ask, did you get a new mallory or other type of coil? If you have the stock coil, then don't worry about the ballast resistor. Its not designed to run with one. If you do have a new coil, and its instructions specifically call for a ballast resistor, just put the ballast resistor in series with the wire that goes to the + side of the coil. Said another way, connect the wire that now goes to the + side if the coil to the ballast resistor (either terminal) and make a new wire that connects the other ballast resistor terminal to the + side of the coil.

Whatever you're drinkin' Blue, pour it down the drain. Now.....

Take the upper rad hose off and check for split in the hose and make sure the clamp is tight....

wingsuit: Congrats on the inspection (near) pass! Driving time coming real soon! No in-tank pump on any S30. All 240 had mechanical pump on the engines, some had addition electric pumps back by the tank. THat can next to yours is filter. The fuel pump quit for sure. Most likely problem is the +12 power to it has been lost. Blown fuse, bad connection most likely. Plugging wouldn't burn the pump up quickly. The red wire attached to it runs somewhere, likely to the ignitions switch of something that gets power when the key is in the ON position. Just trace the wire back and see where it goes, then it might be obvious why its not connected anymore (like loose or blown fuse in-line). First test, turn the key to the On position and test for +12v at the red wire on pump. There is no exposed wire at the pump, so trace it back where it goes until you can get a bare end to test. Or expose a tiny bit of the copper on the wire near the pump, or slice into with a razor blade to touch the core wires and touch you probe to the blade. Check the black ground wire too. It has to be connect to car metal somewhere or the - side of the battery. If you can't figure out what went wrong, just re-wire that red wire to a new spot. Find a fuse position that gets +12 when you turn the key on, and temporarily connect the red pump wire to the fuse connector by tucking a bare end under a fuse. Make this VERY temporary, it will get you running. Make sure you put that wire under the terminal closest to the CENTER of the fuse box or you may risk blowing that fuse with the extra pump current. Worst case, just connect it straight to the battery +12. Having the pump up front like that is a poor idea in general. Pumps are good pushers, not all are good suckers. The inlets tend to need to be below the bottom of the tank. That particular pump is a decent sucker, but it belongs in the back with the tank. Later! Good luck. Call to chat if you need to!

Dang. Another part for the 3D printer gang....

Fiche has that these are only on 280. N4400 from 11/75 only, then N4600 from 08/77, ie 78 only. I've only ever seen them on a single '78 280. nissanparts.cc has a listing for 66882-N4600 $1.97 each. NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories They are a Nissan dealer in Tecoma Washington that does on-line parts sales. I used to buy a few things from them a couple of years ago, quite good to deal with, I'de definitely start with Courtesy Nissan first though.

The restriction is a temp valve on the back of the intake manifold (SU 240) feb by the pipe that goes around the back of the head. It closes when the temp gets high enough. Its just to warm up the intake, not to continuously heat it once the car is up to temp. Its a bypass on the thermostat as well when cold. Everyone should read the hybridz thread about cooling these engines and what might happen when you loose important things like manifold bypass and other "un-necessary" stuff..

Welcome to Tabco has the listing

Ok, I give up. Nearly took the hot knife to it this weekend. That sorry, abused, incomplete, mass of sadness and has to go to a better place. Blue/Ross, 147 is all yours. At least you get first dibs on her. Anyone else interested, let me know! I'll just console myself in knowing I saved it from the hands of its past oppressors and gave it at least a chance at glory. Next....

The challenge is to save the oil pan gasket from getting ripped when you remove the front cover, AND when you put it back on. To help with the removal, start with a thin thin razor knife blade and get between the cover and oil pan gasket with a few passes to separate them. Take the 4 oil pan bolts out first that go into the front cover from the bottom to give you maximum space in there. Once you are replacing the cover, smooth and chamfer the two top edges and two bottom edges of the front cover (the outside inch or so) slightly so that it doesn't tear into either head or pan gasket as you slide it back together. Just put an extra small dab of sealant on those four edges to ensure a seal. Start with the bottom first, put it over the oil pan gasket 1/8" then start the top under the head. Use a bit of oil on the head gasket and oil pan gasket to make the cover slide and not grab. Go slow when replacing it, and watch what's happening. Good luck.

To temporarily block the heater core, just plug both engine hoses. This is the same as having the heater core turned off, so its safe. The common mistake is to connect (short circuit) the engine hose connections. This reduces head cooling, effectively making the hose the easiest way for the coolant to get from the back of the head to the rad, rather than making it go thru the head, ie removing heat! Its ok to do for a short period, like in an emergency on the road, but don't leave it like that. The heater valve is a restriction even when its wide open, so having the heater valve open is NOT the same as connecting the head connections with a hose.

Check two things. 1. The hazard switch itself. Take it apart and check the internal contacts for corrosion. Your lucky, yours is in the console and easy to get to. 2. There are a few connectors that are under the dash on the passenger side foot well, actually at the firewall, near the hear core. There are two or three in a bundle there. Pull the connectors apart and look at the pins inside. I've run into several of these things that have gotten wet from leaking heater cores that have turned the pins in those connectors to green meanies... 3. And of course the turn signal switch itself in steering column could need cleaning as well. Get the wiring diagram and do some tracing and see what is common with the problem. Good luck!

Another unsecured battery accident. You're lucky its not all up in smoke. Those things are heavy, bungee cords don't cut it. 78's have another pair of fusible links for the fuel injection on the battery side of the relay bracket right beside the battery. The fuel injection and fuel pump relays are under that bracket as well. Here's hoping all those fusible links did their job...

I'm going to be the devils advocate here. Why don't all the SU carb guys in the hotter climates complaining of similiar symptoms? Should be real common to all "float bowl" users.... I have this issue too with my Mikuni 44's The time it takes to get it to start is directly propotional to length of time it sits. Mechanical pump or electric. 24 hours, no wait time at all. 48 hours, maybe 15 sec of cranking, 7 days, maybe 40 seconds of cranking. I have a check valve too. How can something this pretty be so tempermental? Maybe that answers my own question....

I'm sure its possible. With just the right tools, the right light, with an extra pair of hands, with the spring still around the plunger shaft, with the right patience.... with enough beer... It's a balance between your, sorry, 'his', fear of the unknown and having a whole day and more patience than I have, to try to get that tensioner back where it belongs and the chain back on... Dawg7, since you're friend is so anxious to learn and do, I say take this as an opportunity for learning about what's under the front cover and how to properly mechanically time a L engine. enjoy!

I've heard stories its possible, but frankly, I'd never attempt it. Off comes the cover. Take the rad out, it makes it much easier. Really. Especially when you have to take the balancer off the crank. Remind 'him' of the two 10 mm headed bolts between the head and the front cover that tend to hide in crud and get forgotten. And the two at the base of the cover into the block, just above the oil pan, especially the one behind the oil pump, which has to come off anyway. Tell him he's not alone. This right of passage has been experienced by many many before him.

Whoa Ken, run, don't walk from that one... Not good. It is hard to extrapolate that to the rest of the car, just because the floors got wet and rotted doesn't mean the whole thing is like that, it depends SO much on the storage condition, but if it was outside all this time, keep looking....

Glad to see the sun is shining, Mad Mike is being himself, and Matsuo is chillin' ! All is right in the land of the mighty Z. Enjoy! And just who's lipstick is that on the wine glass, anyway? Blue?

Kevin: Welcome to the forum and apparently to the land of early 260's! I've never seen so many early 260's come up for sale in my life, all in Alberta. I've personally run across 5 or 6 in the last couple of years. Please be extra vigalent about rust on these cars before buying one. The #1 most expensive part of the restoration is rust repair and paint, so start with the most rust free example you can find, even if it means going to the US to get it. Spending $5-6K on a good 240 body in Alberta is worth it in the long run. There are a couple on Kijiji right now. Before you purchase I'de be happy to have a look at the cars with you to give you an informed opinion of cost and time to restore them. Both of the cars you are mentioning have rust issues that I can see from the pictures. The white one not run since 98 will need the most work. Parts specific to early 74 260's parts are hard to find, 2+2's even more so, due to the very limited production. That said there isn't too much that all that specific, bumpers, wiring harness, emblems, etc depends on your plans for the car, ie stock restoration, or just make it run, look good and have fun with it. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll give you a phone # so we can chat more. Happy to answer any and all questions you may have and to support your restoration in any way I can.

The color will grow on you. Bid man, Bid! The current bid is way undervalued. IMHO....

On/Off working/not working is 95% ignition probabilty. About the only exception is random fuel supply cut outs due to plugged lines or sticky float valves that come and go but they tend to act differently. Read on. Couple of questions to clarify. 1. Given a 30 minute hypothetical drive, what percentage of the time is it running fine vs running bad? You mentioned its good initially then the problem starts up, but does it randomly go back and forth between good/bad over the remainder of the drive? 2. How quickly does it toggle from working fine to working bad? Is it near instantly or does it get progressively worse over over a period of several to 10's of seconds? Near instant = ignition, slowly fades to bad = fuel going away. Pull the vent hose off the top of the front carb fuel bowl lid and get a thin stick about 3 in long that will fit in the hose barb that sticking straight up now. Poke it in there and see if you can feel a nice freely bobbing float as you poke it up and down. You're making sure the float is free to move with this easy trick. If you feel a dead end, ie no bobbing, then the bowl is empty or the float is stuck. Pull the top off the front carb float chamber and remove banjo bolt. Check the condition of the filter screen inside the banjo fitting and see what crud is lurking in the float bowl. Pull the float valve and check the needle tip for deterioration, crud caught in there, and has free motion. If after a lengthy drive with this problem coming and going, if the front carb is to blame, the front three plugs may look different than the back three. Just a clue here. Good luck! Don't give up.

Go to Google, then to Images, and type in "240z front hub" Lots of pretty pictures

John will be racing in the E-Production class for sure. I agree Carl, surprised there aren't more $10 contributors. Spent more than that on gum last week... The EP final is 1:00 pm Sunday Sept 22. Consider making it a weekend of fun at the historic Elkhart Lake "Road America" circuit. I'll be there all weekend to cheer ALL the competitors on. Full race schedule is posted here: http://www.roadamerica.com/userfiles/file/2013%20Schedules/2013_Runoffs_WORKING_Schedule_1_30_13.pdf

Fab! Now you can relax and enjoy the show. Now is this a one off problem with that rocker, or do we have to be "careful" with re-worked rockers? Wish I was there too. Guess I'll have to live this ZCON thru you'z guyz. Enjoy the ride! Literally!