zKars

The main bolt is 6 x 1.0 and about 15mm long. It has a 10 mm head. The other one that faces down is a 8mm head. That's a 5x0.8mm bolt maybe 10mm long. Which one are we talking about?

No big mysterys here. with the large strike load this part recieves, these components don't move much, they absorb energy via compression. That spring is very short and tight, I wouldn't expect you could move it by hand. Of the several old usd examples I have, not one has the dangly rubber bit still attached. All are broken off like your left one. 240zrubberparts has the replacement rubber bits for the latch side, which are also almost always gone. The rubber we are talking about wouldn't be replaceable without disassembling that spring pin and that doesn't seem practical.

So perfect they even use silicon nipple caps that are just about the correct Nissan blue

So today for the ump-teen'th time, I find myself putting a 5 speed on a L6 block on the shop floor. Usually goes pretty smooth. I use an old trans input shaft as a clutch disk alignment tool, really helps to get the splines lined up perfect. I hate those plastic POS things that come with clutch kits. Just not close enough. A set of wheels at just the right height under the trans tail to take the weight, SCHLOOOP on she goes. Usually...... But today being a full moon and all, and me being alone, I guess the planets don't line up and neither did my transmission with the splines and pilot bushing. After a couple of hours of cursing and sweating I gave up had to resort to a different plan. I have the luxury of an overhead hoist, so I re-oriented my chains to the rear of the block and put the motor on its nose. Added a couple of stabilizing out-riggers to the engine mount brackets for safety and secuity. Remember to drain the oil too or leave the dizzy, fuel pump and valve cover on or you'll be rust proofing the shop floor. Coolant too.. This one's fresh'ish so, no fluids yet. Gave my tranny a big hug and dropped it straight on the engine. Still took a bit of wiggling and twistin, but suddenly, POOP, on it went. Problem solved. As if the previous morning's 'joy' wasn't enough, I decided to spin the crank bolt and watch the old driveshaft yoke I have poked in the tranny end rotate to prove the job is complete (and the clutch is engaged, ie I picked the right release sleeve, but I digress... ). So I put the 27mm socket on the crank and spin away. drive shaft does move. oh oh. ok, out of gear. Move the stick shifter into gear. Rachet crank again. still no rotating of the output. WTF.... So it turns out that you can in fact put the driveshaft yoke into the transmission too far. I was at one point hammering the end of the yoke to 'help' the trans mate with the block, and in so doing, I pushed it in so far it got past the splines. Just another silly lesson learned to share. Happy trans swapping. Oh, and who's free tomorrow AM for an engine insertion? I can do it myself, but that's just not wise. Not with the full moon and all....

Yup, 1/2 BSPT. 14 TPI. Tapered pipe thread. Now, since 1/2 NPT is also 14 TPI, I'll say the likely un-popular thing and suggest you could use the NPT equivalent in its place with little consequence. Happy threading and plugging. BTW, this was checked on an N42 block. I don't think this varied across the various L6 blocks. Remind me to put that thing back in....

The head is 22mm. but I'm guessing you mean the thread size. Let me get one and check. My guess is 1/2 inch BSPT.

Wait! I see two wire harnesses in that picture. Me thinks you have the harness that is supposed to split off and run along the roof to the interior light laying in the back there. That connection is the one that goes to the spade connector on that roof light. No fun to re-route that harness....

ah, now I understand. I am totally baffled as to the use of those wires. There are no electical components in that area that these could be connected to. Check if this connection is connected to ground with a multi-meter, or if it gets +12volts when the key is on or lights are one, or ???? Possible it was wires for speakers added by a past owner? Taped onto the existing harness? Other Guesses?

I think that removing the coil wire and just cranking in 10 second bursts for 3-4 cycles until you see some oil pressure prior to initial spring start up might accomplish about 90% of what you're doing with the clever oil injection apparatus. This however would not allow one to have wonderful inventive ideas and then to be able to implement them with various machine, flame and spark producing tools. So forget I mentioned the above. Back to the shop! That's where I'm going!

Glad you're making progress. Wish we had a simple way to measure flow, not pressure. Running pressure is irrelavant, all it has to do is keep the bowl full, which is a flow determined variable. The car would run perfectly at 0.25 psi if the pump could flow enough to keep the bowls full at all times. The 4 psi is just a ceiling that shouldn't be exceeded as the float valves can't keep back any more. Remember its all big system. The fuel lines, the return lines, the fuel filter and the flow valves in the carbs are resistors, the pump is a voltage source. The flowrate (current) is determined by the resistance in the circuit at the applied pressure. Unfortunately the pump pressure can vary depending on the supply and return circuit. Complicated. There are an infinite number of pumps and plumbing arrangments that will let the car run just fine. Thats why you find so many people with a huge variety of systems who's car's run just fine. The problems occur at the extremes. Long term high flow rates (can the pump really keep the bowls full?), extended life (is the pump always deadheading most of the fuel, and getting hot?) etc etc etc....

The shifter bushings are larger. I had a few of both of these in a bag and didn't realize they were different until I tried to use the throttle bushing in the tranny.. oooppss...

There are no stock wires in that area. The wire harness typically goes up overtop of the evap tank, goes through one of the holes in a support beam at the back, and then runs along the back panel beneath the tail lights. There is a branch that goes down through the hatch floor to the fuel level sender, and fuel pump. This branch has a ground lug that attaches under the hatch floor above the gas tank. What I see is a harness in the bottom of that area below the filler that normally shouldn't be there.

While the 260/280 consoles are quite a bit larger than the 240 consoles, and this cover may more than have enough material to cover your 73 consoles, there may be detail differences that leave an area blank. I wouldn't chance it. BTW the 2+2 consoles have an ashtray on the very back vertical end cap. Other wise they are interchangable with the coupe version

That's going to be tough to find. I have one, but its busy... And I had to cut out the back to make the clock fit.... Sorry....

oh oh... I hope that exhaust valve has the same installed length as the others..... i'm thinking it's "different"... They should all adjust the same way.

Great advice all, thanks! 123100-P0100 flywheels are hard to find. Rock auto only lists 2+2 flywheels (20 mm) . Ebay has nothing. Clutch kits come up with nothing that includes a flywheel, where as only a few years ago, there were none. Don't really want a Fidenza alloy flywheel. Well I do, but not at the current exchange rates! Anyone with a source? I'm fresh out of used ones.

What say you good Z'ers? When putting in a new clutch, what is your SOP on the flywheel resurfacing? Wet sand with Silcon carbide paper till deglazed? Always take in for a skim resurface to local rebuilder? Don't bother? Share your experience. Yes, I admit it, this is a silly question is based on being cheap, and in a hurry to get a clutch swap done in one go without a day or two "in the shop" waiting for a proper skim to get done....

Very cool! good eye. I especially like the little old lady tossing the tire in disgust! That could have been my mother!

ok, THIS is cool. Thanks!

oil level cannot exceed a certain point or it just overflows internally and gets burned. It's possible to have too little, but not too much. As long as your not really low, or you've overfilled and it hasn't had a chance to overflow and stabilize, oil quantity can't have much impact on performance.

I've used POR-15 and Chassis Saver on several projects with outstanding results, and I can say that both products appear, smell, apply and perform nearly identically. Chassis Saver is marginally cheaper in my market. Prep is the secret. You cannot skimp on prep, degrease and cleanliness and application directions. Follow directions as mentioned. Did I say clean?

The 73 mounting brackets and bumpers are unique as you've discovered. The four studs on the back side of the 73 bumpers are not the same location or spacing as the earlier bumpers. 73's do have both the pair of holes in the body that the 70-72's had to mount their simpler earlier brackets, as well as the ones for the 73 brackets, so you can use earlier bumpers, but not the other way around with out some fabricating to make things match up. Did I make that clear? ish?

What are the chances. Watching James Bond on TV, "You only live Twice", and admiring another lovely car, the Toyoto 2000GT. White of course....

And welcome back ZODB! The old noggin still tuned to spotting Z shapes, I see.

Man, I sure have a soft spot for Aston's. Never really knew about that one. mightly S30'ish though, ain't it? The recent Vanquish shapes have always been what I had hoped Nissan would do the "new" S30. My dream don't seem to have any hope of coming true though do they?