zKars

Yeah, at least one. Maybe two.....

The shaft does not normally come out of the switch body. Since you have it out, pry open the case tabs and have a look see inside. Chances are you will need a new switch but you never know. I'm not close, but I can send you a switch if you get to that point.

Dwell is set by changing the points gap. Go with 15-17 initial, make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up and that hose is in good condition. And set that 17 with the vac advance hose removed and plugged don't forget. And maybe its time for an electronic ignition rather than points. If your dizzy is in good shape (bushings and mech and vac advance works correctly) then just stuff in a pertronix kit. Will look totally stock. And Welcome to the club. There are just about a billion bits of information here for you to read and learn from.

Windshields are available. Both Asian copies and PPG (I guess PGW now) american glass. I've found the asian stuff in Alberta for the ungodly prices under $100 CDN.. Just keep calling around to different suppliers. Start with the big boys. Also ask them to look under Nissan instead of Datsun. I had that problem with Crystal glass here in Calgary recently. Conversation went like. "Datsun? 71 240Z? nope, just seeing 510, 610.... Sorry can't get it". Whoa whoa whoa...

These look great Randy! I've cobbled up my own but nothing this slick! Ok fellow innovators, to me the real holy grail is to contrive a method to adjust the float levels without the trial and error madness of removing the lid and bending little miserable tabs. That together with an external indicator of the fuel level (see post #1) would be pure nirvana.....

The keyed door locks need a place on the body for the key thing to lock behind. Only the early "series1" cars had the door knobs and a matching loop welded to the body for the latch to get behind. Jai would have to add something like that inside the door opening for a keyed door to be effective.

It makes sense that the fuel filler components didn't change until the larger tank showed up, which I'm fairly sure is a 280 thing. early 260 should be the same as 240.. The fiche showed the 260 being same as 280, but the change is likely late 260. Anything. bolt count is the easy visual check. three early (easy), four late (harder, but do-able)

Steve, after three statements of fact, I'm inclinded to believe you, but take a closer look. Are there three or four bolts holding the filler neck to the body? Four is the larger from the backside later filler neck style. The bolts thread through the body and thread into the flange in the filler neck. Yes the fill cap and opening in the filler neck are the same up to end of 76, and look very similar. Can you post a picture of your filler area? I gotta see this. Here is a pair of 2+2 and coupe 260/280 filler necks for later reference. the longer below the body 2+2 one is even marked "2/2"

I've just realized there is a considerable fly in the ointment about my little locking cap solution. Only the 240's have that external filler neck ring that is so easy to remove and apply a weld bead to.. 260 and up has a much larger filler neck like this. There is a unique filler neck for the 2+2 according to the fiche, and the 77-78 models are different again, with the smaller cap and no chance at all of a locking cap. Dang. No way to get in from the end and place that weld bead. However there is a way to make this work, I think a screw/bolt in from the side at the right spot at just the right length would accomplish the same task of providing a stopper for the locking caps tang to hit, just like the weld bead. You'd have to seal that bolt in that hole as well to prevent leaks. Little welding for that, or JB weld.... Getting this sucker out of your car is perhaps the most challenging thing. So long story short, if you have a 260/280 and want me to do the mod, you're going to have to send me the whole filler neck. I only have a couple of these, so cores will be required. You lucky 240 folks can just get a modded filler ring off me. Questions?

Charles, let's not complicate this too much. Jai, if it's ok, let me send a few rings out for CAD plating, or powder coat if you prefer, then send you one direct. You purchase a locking cap on-line. Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll discuss details and options with costs. Charles, do you want me to send you a modded ring that you can use for a pattern?

I does not store maps within the App, you only have the "Current" map. You can edit the map interactively then store it in the distributor. The map can not be altered when the car is running, EXCEPT for a blanket + or - advance adjustment of the current map in use.

Here is a modded ring with Eastwood's "Reflective Chrome" powder coat. It's pretty darn shiny! If I spent more time pre-buffing the raw metal, this would be darn purdy! This was done with just sand blast then medium wire wheel buff. Goes real nice with the chrome locking cap!

Charles that's great idea. Thanks for the free plating offer. Do you have a way to weld that bead before you do the plating? Doesn't make $$ sense for me to ship to you then you to her. Maybe just get Jai's and do the mod for her.. You two are on the same side of the continent!. In the meantime Jai can order up a cap then by the time you're done, she'll have all the pieces. I'll send my modded one to you first if that seems to make sense.

I have a simplified solution now. No more extra piece of steel to weld in, just a weld bead on the side that sticks out just the right amount. Also discovered that a stock cap's tangs wouldn't clear the initial extra bit, but the weld bead works just fine with either.

I suppose you all would go gaga if I welded a tiny bracket with a hole on the back of the BMW gas cap to provide a connection for that all-important chain, wouldn't ya? Plainly I need to sell a package of modified locking gas cap, and modified and fitted mounting ring. Maybe even a new rubber flap and bolts?. Naw that's just getting carried away, ain't it?

Why not just pop rivet one these over the fuel door? By a good study Master padlock and your set.

Several suppliers on flea-bay too. Ok, no need to panic.

Google I love you. http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=51

Oh yeah, the $$ thing. Maybe we should lock down a supplier of those locking BMW locking caps before we get too carried away. I can paint and powder coat at home, have to take the ring in for plating. CAD plating looks best of course. Mind you the cap is chrome. Gas is likely to take off spray paint (except POR/Chassis Saver). Black or silver powder coat might be the best all round looker/performer.. Good thing I have nothing else to do today...

Parts train shows a very different looking gas cap with that part number than the BMW cap are discussing?

I was trying to remember where I bought this thing, and it was MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-2201 While its listed as no longer available (wonder why...), they do mention it is VENTING.

Google leads you to all kinds of fun places http://www.fillernecksupply.com/?gclid=CL-pvsGSt80CFQusaQodfioFiA BTW, we have a 58 mm filler neck Oh crap, never mind. That fillernecksupply thing is 58 OD.... Still, they have cool stuff.

OMG Steve, ROFL, I'm just recovering now about the Chevy Chase scene... Oh my aching sides I've learned my lesson with you guys for sure. Ok, after staring at the ring and BMW cap for 10 minutes, the solution is really pretty simple. You just need a stop block at the right spot. Pictures are worth 1176 words.. First weld in a scrap of metal, here. Put BMW cap in, twist to stop position, turn key to lock, lock tab now protruding and trapped behind welded in tab. A pic with the key in open position, free to turn CCW to unlock. Had to use the rubber gasket from the stock cap, which is thicker. The tabs on the BMW cap are angled away from the body and will leave the cap loose if you don't have enough gasket thickness. Stock is about .012, BMW was only .08 ish Another issue is the cap OD verses the ID of the mounting ring. Dang tight fit. I just did a little hammer tap tap around the inside to roll the lip just a smig and it slips in easy. Ok who wants a modified mounting ring? Choice of powder coat, CAD plated, spray paint or sand blasted bare DIY.

Steve, yes the OD of the BMW cap as it fits in the ID of the filler ring is a very snug fit. Wouldn't take much of a tweak of the ring to make it too tight. As to the venting, I believe these caps are not vented. there is no obvious opening. Mind you, I can blow into the lock cylinder area, lips sealed around it (no comments....) and air comes out somewhere inside the cap. Can't tell if its through the locator or locking tab openings or between the inner and outer layer. Will have to do some testing.

Thank god I'm not the only fool who bought that BMW cap. What a scam! Yes, it "locks", yes it "fits", just doesn't lock to the car.... Man. However, I just pulled it out of it's hidey hole, and grapped a gas filler opening ring to understand how this looks and why it doesn't lock.. I may see a way to modify the ring so these caps actually lock.. Give me a day or two to fiddle....