zKars

I really appreciate all the feedback. It seems that while Stihl 0.13 line may be no longer available, it seems there are plenty of other brands that fill the need. These links were sleuthed by 240260280 for me. Thankyou. I have exercised one of them on my busy Amazon account. https://www.amazon.ca/Stens-380-624-Trimmer-155-Foot-130-Inch/dp/B004HSA9Q6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478866877&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=stihl+0.130 https://www.amazon.ca/Arnold-Twisted-Trimmer-Line-0-130/dp/B00IU17G62/ref=sr_1_21?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478866939&sr=1-21&keywords=0.130+line https://www.amazon.ca/Oregon-21-330-Gatorline-0-130-Inch-Diameter/dp/B0018TY706/ref=sr_1_19?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478866939&sr=1-19&keywords=0.130+line https://www.amazon.ca/Stens-380-425-Silver-Streak-Trimmer/dp/B00FN0ERJM/ref=sr_1_27?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478867045&sr=1-27&keywords=0.130+line

510 indeed. Ask away. Unless you're asking if I'm crazy then I can just say absolutely.

One hates to jump to conclusions, but if this is as close to a new "z" as they can get, then I'm really going to get grumpy...

Well, I'm about to embark on this quest, and cannot find STihl 0.13 line in town or anywhere on line. It's part number is 0000 930 2577 but I'm beginning to think it's out of production. Anyone buy 100' and got 96' left over? Happily pay the freight.....

Oh for heaven's sake...

It's complicated. We'll see where the car actually ends up.

Not sure I want to admit what's next. It IS a Datsun, but not nearly as pretty...

Well I'm happy (and sad too..) to say this baby is history. She has been sold. Local buyer. On to the next project!

I've had a set of the billet ones on my 73 for 5+ years. No sign of wear or damage. Much tougher than the originals.

Here is a test you can do to determine if your current bushings are "ok" or need replacing. Clamp the cross member in a vise or to your work bench VERY solidly. Put as large a screw driver as you have through the hole in either bushing, or similar stiff rod, at least 12 in longer, longer is better. Put the tip of the bar in the hole, and leave as much handle length as you can out. Pry like mad on that bushing and make it flex. Inspect the stretched side for cracks in the rubber or separation from the center tube or outer shell. Do this in several directions. You might be amazed at the cracks you can't see with the bushing in its neutral position. I'm not a fan of the poly bushing in the trans mount. Noise transmission will be worse. Unfortunately if you remove the stock bushings and the outer shell to put the poly bushings in, then don't like the resulting noise, you can't go back to the stock bushings.... That said the series 1 cars had one cross member style that did not have bushings at all at the crossmember/body connection point (got it on my 71 right now) and I don't hear nothing from the trans... If I get a chance I'll drop by my local Nissan dealer and see if Canadian Nissan has access to those stock bushings too.

What is your objective? To get new bushing because yours are worn out, or are you restoring and want new bushings? I can get you a decent crossmember with good bushings if you are just want to improve things. It's just as important to get a new trans isolater mount as well if you haven't done so yet to get your drive line angles back to spec. I couldn't believe how much my old one had sagged when I was chasing a drive line vibration. Nearly 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch!

17813 has them too.

Dis is da stuff :http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=3m-paint-defender-spray-film

I love the fuse box cover protection idea, but I'm quite sure it would remove the lettering if peeled off. Depends on if the heat you need to melt the glue gets high enough to affect the lettering paint. It looks so clear I'd doubt you'd ever want to remove it. Just keep it waxed! I also love the battery tray area protection idea, definitely challenging to do using the film, but a breeze using the spray on stuff.

Oh yeah! I also peeled the aged, dirty, marked up, scratched protective films off my iphone and ipad screens that I spent WAY too much to get in the first place, and stuck on a nice chunk of this nice clear film. Spent about 30 cents and got nice fresh thick film. Looking through it right now while typing this. I can now safely duct tape my IPad to the front of car and do the Go-Pro thing and never worry about rock chips again.

When I had my 73 painted, WAY back in 2008 (9?), I decided to get the front facing surfaces "3M"'ed with that clear bra stuff. Found a good little local shop with a guy and his wife starting out, and they did a great job. Across the hood up to the hump, front edge of the head light scoops, on each headlight and behind each wheel to catch gravel spray. Cost me ~$400 bucks. I keep it waxed and it still looks good (ie I pretty much forget it exists) to this day. I had it applied to a new Nissan Altima right after by the dealship and that was more like $800. Ouch. I has intrigued me for a couple years on and off and I decided to go buy some of this stuff and see just how hard it is to apply. My application idea is actually to apply it below the master brake cylinder and over the frame rail down to bottom of the rail below the firewall to protect against brake fluid damage. Why is the topic for whole nother thread. Let's just say I'm getting good at applying white paint.... So there are two kinds of film. Solid color/pattern "vehicle wrap" vinyl and clear paint protection vinyl. The "Wrap your Ride" vinyl is thinner and more conformative, the clear paint protection stuff is thicker. So after some experimenting, I found that this stuff is not simple to install, but it's well within the skills I know most of you/us have. Find the local vinyl wholesaler and go buy some scraps, a few simple tools, some squeegee bottles and go after it. I've done a few parts of the white 71 that's on its way to finding a new owner. I hope. A great first project was cutting out two 6.5 inch circles of the clear and sticking it on the headlights. Easy peasy. They are not flat and need a little sqeeqee action and heat to make them disappear. Putting the piece on the frame rail was easy, its flat, just a bend over the edge. Now the chunk under the brake master is very very NOT FLAT, and it took some trial and error to learn how to do that with fancy heat and squeegee action, but I got it. I'd show pictures of it, but frankly you can't see it! There is another option. Spray-on clear paint protection from 3M. I bought a couple of cans of it about 5 years ago when it first came out (rather then the "dip" crap, although I'm sure it's gotten better). I applied it to the underside of the front valence, which was off along with the fender, It's drying tonight, after a second attempt. I think it will look great given what I've seen so far. Clearly it's a shorter term solution, its rated for a 2 year life. Stuff is cool, after the first attempt met with a couple of "issues" during application (I won't go into the nitty gritty details, cough cough...), I let it dry for all of about 3 hours, and most of it peeled right off like it was the clear vinyl stuff. Trick is to apply it thick enough so the resulting film is strong enough to withstand peeling later. The vinyl wrap and paint protection films are the best option for time, function and appearance. Watch a couple YouTube video's from the manufacturers to get the general methods, and give it a shot. You can buy pre cut paint protection kits from ebay for most modern cars and the simple tools to apply it, Then its just spray, position, squeegee, heat, pray, curse, lift, spray, stretch, sqeeqee, repeat, heat, done! Best thing is, if you screw up, peel it off, no harm done.

Another usage report. I had a large sheet of this stuff attached to a certain white fender that was off a certain white car for about 6 days. Put the fender back on tonight, and peeled the stuff right off. The tack was pretty/semi agressive, but it peeled off the paint no problem. No marks, no residue. still like it.

The entire vapor lock issue, if it really exists at all, relies on high spot(s) in the fuel lines where the gaseous vapor can rise to, and block the liquid. I'd be interested to hear from those without issues if their line routing contains any of these theoretical high spots or not. The stock fuel rail certainly has one at the end, and from my experience the rear rubber hose to the rear carb is often routed up and over (ie creating a perfect vapor lock hump) over the linkage. Just postulating. Bit early for such things, but I'm stuck in a chair with a bad back today, so look out for more pearls of wisdom....

Sorry to possibly confuse the issue, but I have E31 heads here that have both the short and long bananas. I don't mean a mix, all long or all short. The long banana E31 is from HLS30-164xx but the short banana E31 I cannot pinpoint as to build date or original VIN. I wish this marker could be more conclusive. Perhaps it does apply to early heads, but not later ones. Just a guess. Any others with this experience?

Holy mollie $34K for a modded 280! I'm going to paint BRE stripes on my white 71 resto and raise the asking price!

Start with Nissan, Courtesy in Dallas first. Then google the part number and see what happens

Use stock bushings. The urethane ones will transmit trans noise like crazy. That's one of those places where poly bushings have no business being used there.

Many ways of saying the same thing. Too much fuel in the bowl, getting the static level above the bridge height, causes raw fuel to be siphoned into the carb venturi. How the bowl gets too full can only be from pressure that forces the needle valve open. The argument that evap empties the bowl some, opening the needle valve, which allows fuel in to over fill is silly. The float would rise and stop it from exceeding normal height, unless, again, the inlet pressure was above the needle seat hold pressure. Simple test to put the old external fuel level indicator on the drain plug, get it hot, turn it off, and watch the level in the bowl. Also a pressure gauge on the line after/pump pre-carb would show you if it does get "high" enough to force the needle seat. If none of that is going on, then it's something BLOCKING flow into the bowls preventing the car from starting (ie too lean, way way too lean, like none!). This could only happen if evolved (boiled gaseous gasoline) in the line sits in a high spot blocking liquid fuel flow. Again, float level indicator would show an EMPTY bowl not refilling during cranking during attempted restart. Line pressure gauge would read very low or no pressure. Finding the cause of your problem is a matter of careful and methodical testing.

Sorry its not a Z, but you get the idea... Defintely not as good as a rotisserie, but it worked! Another tool in the bag so to speak. Maybe I'll finish this damn thing this winter...

1st! ? Now thats cool! wish I could have been there. Did you make it? Apparently if you took that picture