zKars

I'm going to put this in here as an alternative to rebuilding your current rack. There seems to be a new rack supplier on e-bay now http://www.ebay.com/itm/322392168570 Someone on Hybridz has purchased and installed it with good results so far. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127702-looking-for-new-steering-rack-feedback/?hl=322392168570

The only thing that is "correct" is putting the wheel on with the rack centered in its travel before installing the steering wheel "straight". Who knows who's had the column out, or the steering shaft out and put it back in who-knows-where alignment with that factory punch mark.

Thanks! I like it. Battery is half the size and weight of a standard Group 24 beast. Twice the price too. Lots of cranking power for vapour locked starts. Probably not good enough for winter cranking, but who's crazy enough to do that? Shirley? Best part is the no-leak, never rot your tray part. That and the new tray!

I finally fixed the A/C leaks in the fancy a$$ stainless steel line fittings at the fire wall fitting in my Z. Replaced the firewall pass through fitting that got damaged. The sharp 90 in the #10 fitting put a lot of stress on the o-ring connection and with multiple on-offs it finally scratched the sealing surface. The Stainless braided hose ends are very heavy as is the hose. I made new hoses using the EZ-Clip system which I am officially in love with. I supported the new hose at the heater hose fitting as it passes by. You can see the new hoses as they are attached at the pass through fitting. Actually I passed the #6 hose (bottom) right through and didn't use another pair of connections there. Two less places to leak. Now the new owner will be kept nice and cool. New owner.... You out there? Anybody? Used it exclusively the EZ Clip stuff on the 510 A/C. Simple, tight radius, light, do it your self crimps. Been working flawlessly for months now. It is pricey, don't buy it through Vintage Air or their dealers, buy it through a local AC or hose supply house. We have three different outfits in Calgary that stock it, it's not rare. New-Line hose, Greggs distributing and Ability Hose all have it. This is the SS hose and fittings that I've collected over several AC jobs. All for sale!

Yes, they are antiques. Better on a roadster or something right? They are in great shape and run very well. The SU vs Mikuni's is an interest comparison. Without doubt the 44's do better at wide open throttle and nearer the top end. But since I spend, oh I don't know, 99% of the time just driving around town in a spirited fashion, the SU's feel pretty much equal. Oh yeah, they are easy to start, get better mileage, overall drivability is better.

Thanks! Nothing like nice cool air in the face. The 280 outlets can be closed as well, unlike the 240 eye balls. And they are small enough to fit. The Speedhut gauges are multi-gauge so I'm not losing any instrumentation. Speedo/Tach, and oil/water/volt/fuel in the other.

Ok, here are some interior pictures. Overall Dash and console view. The steering wheel is actually from my 510 project, I decided the nice one in the Z was better and pilphered it. It's so ugly in there, have to get the black SEM dye out.... Seats from 90's Z32, power drivers side. Comfy. Yes those are NOS door cards. The center stack is all custom. Vintage air controls up top, generic controls in the middle (hazard, rear defrost, other), and the slide out pop up double DIN touch screen stereo with Satellite radio and backup camera. When it's up it hides the center controls but not the HVAC controls. THAT was fun to install..... Top is a pair of AC outlets (280Z) and the AFR gauge in the middle.

I know I should do WAY more advertizing but this is simply a first attempt to say "its for sale" to this very unique group. It's never been dyno'ed, but my butt dyno says 250/275 HP/Torque. And I should share the sound of this thing, it;s intoxicating and you can barely hear the intake noise with that dang air box.

I know all you guys have your project cars already and aren't likley to dump them to buy this one, I just wanted to give you-all the chance to have a shot first. Maybe you know someone, maybe there is a lurker just waiting for a car to pop up. I'll advertise it to the local Datsun heads here next by word of mouth and see what happens. Then maybe BAT.

Bingo! It just feels so, GOOD!!!!!

Few other pictures I dug up. With the current SU setup With the previous Triple 44's in place and my custom air box. Very drivable this way, just not as "nice" as with the SU's. You know what I'm talking about, such as 30 MPG vs 15MPG... Here we are in San Diego ZCON 2014. See, I do drive it. And not just to the grocery store.

Thanks for the kind words Mark. Cheque is written and waiting for you.

Well the time has come to call this one "done" and move on to another. I'm selling my 15 year ownership project Z to finance the next build. Don't call me crazy for selling it, I know what I'm doing. Ok, call me what you like, but don't call me Shirley. Do contact me at z240@shaw.ca for the quickest response or PM here. To say it is heavily modified would be an understatement. I feel like I have done every standard and specialized mod I've ever heard of. Some 3 or 4 times, just for fun. The highlights are: 3.1 classic stroker motor (N42/E88) with forged rod/piston combo. Currently Z Therapy SU fed, triple Mik 44's available. Sounds and feels like no other L6 I've ever driven. Late ZX 5 speed 3.7 R200 Z31 turbo CLSD with Z31 CV's properly done, 3" alum driveshaft with Chev U-joints. McKinney motor sport weld on coil overs, AZC adjustable control arms all around. 16x8 VTO alloys, Yoko S-Drive tires. Z31 vented rotor/Sw-8 Toy calipers up front, Mustang rear disks rear. Vintage Air AC. Completely custom wiring, guages, dash, keyless, Stereo, LED lighting package, even a back up camera for God's sake. Very very low rust stengthened chassis. Fresh paint in 2008 (Mitsu M08 code), Totally stripped and resealed with many layers of POR, sound deadening, and tough coatings. Is it perfect? hell no. I actually drive this car and don't baby it. It has, shall we say, several minor visable "usage indicators". I'll share every detail of what it needs now and in the future, and every thing I can remember that I've done to it, good and bad. I've personally done every bit of the work to this car except paint. No surprises, no hidden demons. A blllion hours put into this car, and about the same $. Been at many shows, the car is very well known in Alberta and BC. References as to my Z skills and general demenour and trustworthyness available upon demand. I'm sure I can find someone around here to lie for me. Asking $25K USD FIRM. Recent BAT Z sales tell me this a pretty good number. Gee, I have no pictures of the underside. Don't worry, it's lovely, really.

Not sold yet, but sale pending. PM sent.

I have decided to sell my NOS Kyosan Denki mechanical fuel pump. Fits any S30 head with open pump casting. I have the box and instructions. Seen them on ebay and the like for $500 and up, I'll let this one go at $400 USD. I do not believe the box is original to the pump. The labeling indicates it is for 510 bluebird, but this pump has the three hole pattern for the S30. Shipping on the buyer. PM me or z240@shaw.ca for details or questions.

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Jason, I understand the reason for your request. I've been working on this for years on and off. I have a spreadsheet for the suspension bolts that details them, and have a picture library of many of the other bolts with measurements that I need to do something with someday. I thought I'd have more time when i retire, but so far I'm busier than I've ever been. Keep bugging me to re-publish that spread sheet at least. It's in here somewhere already.

Not much at all. Pretty much nothing. There is a seam that sticks out a bit that gets it first, I could grind a bit of it off and help things. I can adjust in some more castor and help a bit too. Only running +2 degrees at the moment

The 510 steering ujoints are the same as the 240 piece. Find the thread about the ATV400 ujoint part number. 510 Steering boxes are problematic to find in good condition. There is a lash adjustment on the top, play with that to get it as tight as possible. Even mine that is nearly slop free with all new ball joints throughout still steers like most 50 year old cars with reciprocal ball steering..... There is a guy making a new K member with a rack and pinion but it requires a front sump engine.

Regarding the rubbing problem, check if the steering stop bolts on the steering knuckles are missing or mis-adjusted. This is something the Z crowd don't have to think about. Generally 510's need + offset wheels to keep the rubber under the fenders. +35's are not uncommon. I have a set of panasport's with +6 or 9 offset and they barely keep 195-55 15's inside the lips.

I have a complete set of triple 40 DCOE's carbs for L24/26/28 etc for sale. They are under 4000 km old. Were running perfectly on a stock L28. I installed them, then recently removed them when a new owner wanted the EFI back. Go figure. Not related to how the carbs were running, just wanted it "original" again. Carbs, manifold, air horns, custom high quality (reads strong and rust free), cable throttle and choke cable. Even has a like new set of K&N air filters. Now the good part. Price. $1000 USD. Plus shipping. Retail on ebay and MSA are $1675 USD, which does not include air cleaners or my custom linkage and throttle cable. First come first served. I'll clean them before they go.

Steve I have a few of these laying around if you want to use one for a pattern. It's curved so not easy to get perfect the first time. As to thickness, the original hardboard stuff is ~1/8th. I like the idea of using thicker or at least stiffer material so it stays flat and stays sealed forever. Nice bead of dum-dum around the outside will keep it air tight.

Cin I'm thinking you mean the one on the crank pulley correct? The 81's had a rig on the timing cover and a toothed wheel on the crank pulley. They moved all that to the dizzy with a nice optical thingy in the 82-83

IF the plug is fuel varnish, then pore laquer thinner in the tube and be patient. It will dissolve the plug. May take a few attempts dependng on the extent of the plug, but it will get it clear.

I'm willing to bet the Bi-lok thread that is used is the tubing compression nut thread end. I searched a bit once trying to track down what that thread is, and about all I can remember it is a straight thread, and nothing common. Doing the usual Bi-lok google thing did reveal several suppliers.