zKars

So I have myself in a pickle here. I'm building custom engine mounts for a silly RB25 swap I'm doing for a friend, and I have no way to test if the angles of the fancy new pads on my mounts that sit on the K-member pads are right angle-wise or spread wise before I drop get the engine in. I have great patterns taken from the guy we got the engine from off of the McKinney mounts he has, so I know I'm "close" I find I have NO spare k-members laying around. I know, I'm shocked and dismayed as well. Anyone with a nice little digital angle meter and no engine in their car care to go tell me the angle from horizontal for each of the two engine mount faces on the k-member towers? No rubber isolators/mouts in place please, just the face with the single M10 hole that the isolators bolt through. I have an engine block here with engine mounts attached that tell me the included angle is 90, or darn close, but without knowing the exact engine tilt I can't guess what each K-member pad angle is. I'm guessing that are both exactly 45. Would Nissan make it that easy? Also if you can measure the distance across the two K-member pad between the two single 10mm holes as another data point for me that would be grate, uh, great! I clearly can wait until I get the old L28 out and then measure the guys car myself, but I want these mounts built, welded and coated before he gets here to save time. I'l save the patterns for these mounts and share if anyone wants to save a few $$ on buying custom ones for RB25 swaps as my penance for laziness. Passenger side mount. He made lovely foam board patterns for us to use as a template for making new ones! What a great guy. If you don't have one of these, get one. Fantastic tool for fabricators or drive shaft alignment doers I'm as shocked as you are about how level my bench is.

Or http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/25-2063

This connector style is one that vintageconnections does not carry that Eastern Beaver does (a Canadian reference if you're wondering...). These are used on the white and white red main power feeds such as the Fusible links and at the inter-harness connectors at the firewall and fusebox. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/312_Connectors/312_connectors.html

Are you looking for recommendations for a brand, or ideas where the best deal is to buy one? Never mind, I think you need a 260 specific kit. Good luck I think other than Nissan perhaps. But what is unique other than the carbs and head gasket?

Late 510's had 4 headlights. It's (they?) are 210's

As a proof of concept, simply cleaning and servicing both the wiper linkage and the electrical connections to the wiper motor and primary electrical system, have rendered countless "slow and in supposed desparate need of a Honda motor upgrade" Z's in these parts to perfectly respectibly functioning wipers.

A common 3/8 NPT pipe tap also theads nicely into the soft bushing ID. Then I attach a large pair of vise grips to the square end of the tap and hammer on the vise grip to pop them out. I also welded a 3/8 NPT pipe tap to a fitting that attaches to my slide hammer to help persuade out the tough ones.

This should clear it up

Easy to tell apart if your measuring eye isn't what it used to be.. 9 clutch plate bolt holes on the 240mm, 6 on the 225mm. No 6 bolt clutches don't fit on a 9 bolt flywheel. But any 280/2260/240 flywheel fits all the cranks. Now that special BW 5 speed in the turbo 82-83 ZX's is a different animal, clutch wise. Not sure if it's flywheel is the same either. Ok checked a bW -T5 flywheel. Same as the 240mm flywheel, 9 bolts. Clutch disk has the same splines on the input shaft as the Nissan trans. Rock auto shows clutch kit is Exedy 06030 for the 2+2 Nissan trans, and 06032 for the turbo BW T5 trans. Must be something different about the clutch then

What kind of bread? Hole Wheat? Heavy grease works too. But then you don't have a snack when you're done

The photos in this thread are not complete. The google image share link a few posts back have a more complete set. I have been freely sharing it with anyone who has expressed interest in the car. I admit to be a bit presumptious about my understanding of the most important issue to most folks as I am too familiar with this car and how low-rust I know it to be. The only rust I can find these days is a small bubble on the passenger side dog leg. I've had the car stripped to bare metal, fixed the very few tiny areas of rust, and sealed/painted every square inch back in 2010-2011. Of course like all Datsun's it's rotting from the inside out where I failed to get to, ie inside the rockers at the rear dogleg area.

Gav, thanks for the input, I really do appreciate your opinions. The more I think about it the more I am leaning in the "go stock" direction. Fortunately putting it back to "stock-ish" requires only time for me. I have a fully loaded prepaid VISA card at my favority store, Z-Mart (my basement...). I even have a pretty good set of flat top carbs for the 73! Maybe that's going a bit far... I'm nuts but I'm not crazy.

Well here is an interesting development. I've had lots of interest in the Z, but so far, no sales. The statistical trends around the reasons for saying "no thank you" are now repeatable and cluster around a single item. It's too modified, ie too many unknowns. It matters not that its nearly rust free, has a lovely paint job, has been proven reliable, and is just plain beautiful to look at. The fear around "what if something goes wrong" is too much it seems. So, I am now tempted to do the previously un-thinkable. Strip it bare and rebuild it as stock as I can get it. Leave only common mods. Wheels, seats, spoilers, maybe a simple modern stereo. Given the recent BaT sales that shows the big money goes to the best perserved and original cars, I'm wondering if I won't be ahead if I sell the "stock version" for similar money that I'm asking for the "resto mod version" and as a bonus, have a truck load of modified parts to sell off separately. Am I dreaming or on to something? So, who wants a R200 CLSD, CV's, coil overs, a stroker motor, ZX 5 speed, speed hut gauges, Vintage Air A/C system, touch screen stereo, etc etc etc?

Interesting discussion. The style of cap you show, chain'ed or not, was very early. Non-vented I believe. Likely the under VIN = 20000 cars. What I want to know, now very hard to tell, did these early caps with no chain also not have the rubber flap that was designed to protect the body while the chained cap was dangling while open? I love baseless conjecture, I can you tell?

Couple of updates here: Google photo share with a bunch of pictures. https://goo.gl/photos/dRKM4Ca7hKDkPvfq7 Document that describes the changes and improvements 73240z_Sale.pdf Also discovered the repaint was done spring 2010, not 2008.

First, you must measure your clutch fingers to flywheel friction surface with the clutch bolted to the fly wheel. The fingers move a significant amount toward the flywheel when you bolt it down. Second point, I just took a clutch pack/throwout sleeve out of a 72Z that was a good 10mm too short than the ideal 92mm. The clutch was working. PO's had kept the original shorty sleeve the 4 speed came with the last clutch change. How can this be? The way it was made to work, was by a crazy long clutch slave rod. It was also the early style that have the pass-through-the-fork ball tipped end so you adjust the effective rod length. 92 is the ideal package length. Here you go Captain

Ok, call off the gendarmerie. The buyer backed out. Too many changes and fancy additions apparently. Sheese. Too many toys? Is that even possible? Onward to other buyers.

I'm here just busy. I have several grills, but no separated spare components. Also have a TIG welder... Nevemind, too far away.. Aren't there a couple of different grill mounting arrangements? Early and late, for the 73 bumper brackets or something? Maybe I just make one of these things into a parts donor...

The stock fuel pump harness at the pump by the tank is a pair of M/F 4mm bullet terminals, like SB1 and SS1. Under dash the empty connector is a 2 pin 1/4 spade MPT2 female as you guessed. Yes you can build you're own jumper or put a relay in there

Things are progressing on a positive note. Monsier LaPointe (Jacques last name) lives in Quebec City. And I have contact info for the buyer. Maybe baby is going to a new home.... sniff....

Thanks! I'll let you know if I need him.

I can find out his location for sure. Are your friends named Guido and Tiny?

I will proceed with great caution. I like the idea of getting a local french speaker to video chat with the buyer. My main concern is that Jacques is not really representing a buyer. I really don't care if I sell it to him or to the "buyer" as long as I get paid. Still if he is not being honest, then "No Z for you" He did tell a very believable story about him and his buyer travelling to look at two other Z's in the east, one in Ottawa I think he said, that turned out to be far from what the seller was claiming for rust condition. Very familiar story. They were impressed with under my car pictures and claims of relative rust-free-ness. I would be happy if they travelled here to pick it up. Maybe I'll drive it down there! Field Trip!

I am selling my 73 Z, and have an interested buyer in Quebec. He has enlisted the help of an agency to communicate with me since he speaks no English. The guy is great, but it raises questions. but I would like someone I know, who can speak french to make it possible to speak with the buyer rather than his agent. Anyone here with enough french to help a poor Western Anglophone? (For some reason the 6 years of french I took in Grades 7-12 are not quite enough in this situation, never mind how long ago that was...) The guy I'm dealing with is Jacques Andre. His name and number come up in several french language links showing him selling cars, so that part of what he tells me checks out. Anyone ever hear of him or this business? http://classiccarsmarks.com/jaguar/199174-1961-jaguar-mark-ii-ultra-rare-special-ordered-color-combo.html

Carbs are now sold. Thanks Andrew!