zKars

And I finally realized there really are two different types! Given the crap I've seen in the early ones, I'm hoping the later ones better sealed.

Both springs appear identical. Proportioning valves are down stream of this device, which compares the output of the two master cylinder circuits.

The doctor says you need a new windshield seal. With it in that state you will putting a lot of sealant in with no real hope of fixing the leak. Everytime you try to lift the seal to make room for the tip, it will crack and make more leaks. It is easy to get the old glass out without breaking it. New Precision windshield gasket is $50.

No surprise. Water in the brake fluid would cause total havoc in there. Steel caps, springs and shuttle piston, aluminum case. Everyone get out there and flush your brake fluid, now! Okay, soon, like before next spring.

What counts here is the offset between the mount holes and that stud. As you will notice, that spacing looks identical With the early diffs farther forward than the later ones by an inch or so, this offset must be reflected in this spacing. But what you see in the picture, and I see as well when I check my part examples, is that these two have the same spacing.... Ignore the fact that the two blues and two red line spacings appear to not be same. The close up has significant paralax. Notice the stud orientation between the two. So what's up? How can they be? Well if you turn one around, since the center stud has to stay in the same place on the car, the diff mount holes magically move to required position It is my opinion, that if you just rotate a new mount 180 and put it in, it will fit on a (here we go..., deep breath...) a series 1 car. You could also just reverse the moustache bar so it puts the dff back and use a new insulation in its correct orientation, like, (dare I? sure...) on like a series 2 car.

Yup, looks like mine. Notes. Both sides are identical, save for the hole in the one end cap where the 2nd front brake line goes. The center piston is symetrical as well. The center piston moves very easily and would take only a couple of psi differential to move it, other than the spring pressure. They are pretty stiff. The center electrode chamber and center of the dumb bell shuffle piston never sees brake fluid. The threads on the electrode retaining cap are not sealed to the outside world so moisture can get in and corrode. There is an o-ring at the base of the electrode that sticks into the dumb bell gap that keeps the outside world out of center of the dumb bell shuffle piston. The copper tip of the electrode needs to be clean enough to conduct when the shuffle piston touches it. Both the two I took apart were not dry or clean in that cavity. It's easy to damage the electrode ceramic coating when you take out the center retaining cap. It is supposed to be free, but its often corroded in place, as it has no seal to the outside. As you remove it, the electrode has to rotate along with the retaining cap or the ceramic may crack if the cap is coming off while the electrode stays in place. Gentle heat and penetrating oil and patience are a must here unless you're lucky. A bit of cleaning and two new orings on the shuffle piston are all it needs to work again if the bores aren't pitted. Unless you're doing a resto where stock appearance and function are important, I'd be doing this part instead to replace both this distribution block and the stock rear (or front, later) prop valve. Nothing worse than old brake parts. Ok, maybe old seat belts...

Has anyone, anywhere, any time ever had a front or rear circuit fail and have that light actually come on?

Well then let's move some of my garage full of spares into yours!

I've kept several of those brake light switches if you want to try a couple of others. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca

Maybe? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1504

The bumper mounts are early 260 style I believe. 280's would have have big holes where the shocks stick through. 240's have a pair of holes for bolts, these have 3 threaded holes. ??

Never seen them. There are too many options for sizing, even the amount of the circumference that's removed to make the step. It;s one of those projects that is "easy" but takes forever to get the washers just right....

Very nice! This is my kinda project. Rode hard and put away wet; Very wet. That thing isn't rusty, I've shown you what rusty looks like. That hole in the side of the cowl is a bit strange. Get that fender off and have a look.

Perhaps I can do the old "picture is worth a 1000 words thing" here. The copper washer has an ID of 1.05 inch. The ID of both bearings (hence the OD of the place on the axle where they press fit) is 1.25inch. That copper washer CANNOT be placed both above and below the distance piece to be used as a spacer. Here's me putting it over the smaller 240 splined stubby. I have a "B" distance piece on the axle, and this axle still has a grimy outer bearing on it, so the distance piece sits in its correct location. Here is the copper washer sitting on the upper bearing shoulder. IT CAN'T GET TO THE DISTANCE PIECE TO ACT LIKE A SPACER. If you have some that will, someone has enlarged the ID of them. If those spacers on either side of the distance piece in that drawing DO exist as real parts (and they may have at some point) they are NOT these copper noise reduction washers. BTW, the 280 stubbies won't even let this copper washer get over their larger splines.

We need to come up with a guide line for flow rate, not pressure. Pressure just needs to be in a range between 0 and whatever your needle valves wil hold without letting fuel through. New ones might hold 5 psi. 2 or 3 psi is usually fine for all but the most beaten up needles and seats. What matters is being able to supply enough fuel volume coming in, to refill the volume leaving the bowl and going into the engine. And to do it across the entire engine operating range. Had a lovely roadster with a cheap electrical pump that drove the owner carzy with what acted like fuel starvation, but because that lovely pressure gauge said 3 psi, he wouldn't believe it had anything to do with fuel supply. He even changed the distributor. Until I took the line off the carb and watched fuel barely dribble into a yogurt container... Put my finger over the end of the tubing and it stopped the pump dead. New pump, car ran like a champ. And it's a system. If the lines are plugged, or the fuel filter is dirty, or the tank has crud that gets intermittently sucked in, a great pump (at either end, electrical or mechical) is not going to be able to do its job.

I'm a bit disturbed by the "either or" opinions about FB vs forums. I communicate with friends, family and my Z family in whatever form each of them are comfortable with. We use Messanger, WhatsApp, FB, SMS texting, email, Instagram etc etc. It is a bit hard to remember which 'ding" I've set up for what program, but that's half the fun. Now I pretty much don't share anything of my Z or real life or activites on FB. You will never know (or see) what I ate for dinner tonight or how I'm doing on my latest diet, but here is a small list of the real life good things I get from FB. 99% is me soaking up information that is useful to me, it's not about sharing other than some tech advice now and again. -Huge audience of Datsun lovers. Get to see their projects and hear their challenges, and watch the trends. -One guy shares all the for sale posts he finds for S30 once a week. Craigs list, BAT etc. -Tons of stuff being sold on the various Datsun buy and sell forums. There is surprisingly very little being said about bad sellers (so far).. -Keep up with some very cool 510 racers (Like John Morton and Troy Emerish) on the "Vintage Datsun Road Racing" group -Keep in touch with the Alberta Datsun gang on the more local forums. Pretty much all of the recent rusty acquisitions have resulted from the contacts and friends I have made and continue to communicate with both HERE and on one or more of the other platforms I've mentioned. Yes you can waste your life sharing crap and chasing "likes" and doing nothing more than feeding the advertisement $$ generator monster on FB or you can use the technology to your advantage by using the parts of it that suit your purpose. Even old dogs can learn new tricks.

I don't think there any differences in 240Z rear struts. And I think all S30 shipped with Aluminum drums. There are services that can now reline the AL drums and there are reproduction new AL drums available. MSA has them for $229/pair. I too have a stack of pretty much wore out (lining wise) drums hoping they will be valuable some day...

FYI, you 280's guys up to 76, the 240 senders fit. Have to change electrical connectors, and you'll loose the "empty" sensor, but, you can still get your fuel level to work. Such a shame they had to change those tanks so much in 77-78...

I considered that. I'm sure the outside can be blasted, the inside cleaned, and massive money can be pored into coatings inside and out. Worth it? Not sure. Removing two vents from an otherwise good condition later tank seems like a better usage of time and funds. Or is that sacrilegious?

If I could remove the drums without beating the crap of them, I'd save them. Plus I have no way of knowing how much lining thickness remains. Struts, well, they have the intense rust weigth reduction problem most of the other parts have... so, no..

I remembered the other body part that shocked me. The passenger door. While the drivers door was a 72 transplant (along with the hatch, dash and seats) and was in horrible rust shape, the passenger door was all 70 original, and in remarkably good shape. The bottom has only very minor rust. The drivers side of the car was overall much worse than the passenger side. Must have been half submerged in a slough. The hood wasn't too bad, but has major crush damage to the nose and a good smattering of rust over all. Roof was horribly dented, likely elephants and lions spent days sunning themselves up there.

As a further demonstration of the advanced rust, the gas tank may be the most glaring example. Most sad is the rarity of this tank with it's lack of the top/front and far left vent lines associated with the Canadian no-evap equipment. (Yes, UN, no UA, thanks Dan!). I do not believe this tank to be salvagable. While it does not leak at all at any seam or through any rust perforation, there is nearly 50% loss of surface metal on the outside. The tank contained about 5 litres of incredibly smelly old fuel. I did remove the sending unit. O-ring was intact, but the mechanism was totally rust locked. Inside the belly of the beast. Here I've ground away the surface rust to expost some remaining bare steel to show just how deep it goes.

Well we have finally come to the end of road for 2744. The only parts of the body that were salvagable were the rear hatch slam panel and downward to about half way through the tail lights, and various little sections like the hood latch bracket, center front grill support (attached to lower rad support), take kind of thing. After sweeping up the rust pile in the center of the floor after final body separation, I'm estimating the weight of said pile to be in the 50 lb range. I dutifully combed through the pile to salvage all useful hardware. I'm going to put a small amount of the rust/dust in a clear glass jar and put it on the mantle as a memento to it's service. Warning. The following pictures are graphic in nature and may be upsetting to some viewers.

Oh you're really asking for it! Listen, this only got started because humans like to have names for things, and we are intrinsically lazy. The big exterior obvious differences with cars that do or do not have the hatch vents, pillar vents, vertical def. glass, original console, and the big perceved value, rarity and coolness jump between "early" and "late" 240's that have these big obvious differences, required our stupid human minds to create a simple way of expressing ourselves when we wanted to say "the cars with the hatch vents, vertical lines, original console" but since we're lazy decided on "Series 1". I'm surprised no one has claimed to be the first to use the term. Tweren't me. Then things got crazy when there were so many other changes, some small, some big, that happened as the cars evolved and individual country laws evolved that required the cars to evolve in unique ways across the globe, as well as Nissan deciding to add value with more features and power. As we've discussed there are likely 7000 small and large incremental changes most of which do NOT constitute any reason to give something a new name. I'm happy if I only ever hear these terms to give us clear and simple names that we can use for discussion. S1 240, S2 240, 260, and 280. Hell, just use the year. I have a 70. I have a 71. then if anyone cares, tell them if you have vert def glass or a late console. It is impractical to arbitrarily decide what specific changes constitute adding a another number to the series series. Frankly the more I think about it, its really all about making everyone think your car is better than theirs just cause it has all that early stuff or is special. That's why I'm busy sharing all the cool unique stuff about 3798 and 2744 cause they're Canadian and have unique stuff AND they're early, AND I found two of them! Na Na Na booboo. I don't spend hardly any time telling you about all the stuff on my 73. (Unless I'm trying to sell it, then look out!) Damn it, humans are crazy beings.