zKars

It goes straight down. Its the vacumm port for the dizzy advance. Pretty tiny hole, but it should be right there in the bore BEFORE the throttle blade for ported vacuum

Well I can definitely supply the bolt and washer, and at the very least a stock bushing. I have to look and see if I have a spare poly bushing, If I do, that's coming as well. Please send me a PM and we'll arrange shipping details. Slightly late Xmas present, K?

ChickenDude, you seen the actual fiche images through the native viewer. Is the quality of what is on the fiche themselves crap so that no matter how much you magnify it it can't get better, or do think the scans we work with were just not done at high enough resolution? I see the carpartsmanual images are at least twice as good as the fiche CD scans so there should be something I have tracked down a set of NOS fiche, I think. Haven't seen them yet but I think there is hope.

Imagine if you could click on any number on those pictures and then be hot linked to the part number(s), item listing and details, or the opposite. Maybe search all the parts suppliers web sites that might have that part number to get availability and pricing. Click on a bolt and get a picture of a real one, it's size and torque specs. Let your mind imagine what's possible..... It's so much more than supplying a picture to look at.....

Hey gang So I'm working on a little project (don't enough irons in the fire....) and was wanting to bounce some ideas off a few of you So the blow up parts pictures in the clubs parts fiche CD pdfs are, as we all know, well, pretty poor quality. So poor that reading the numbers is often impossible. carpartsmanual's version of the fiche is better, but still not perfect. carpartsmanual on the left, same pic from the fiche CD's. Not the worst one I can assure you. I want to get a set of these pictures that is better quality. One idea would be to have the fiche re-digitized at higher resolution. Another would be to perhaps make a project where someone with the Nissan FAST program can extract better quality pictures. There are 256 such pictures (from carpartsmanual), so the project is not huge, just not trivial. Looking for other ideas and suggestions. Put it out there. If I can get what I'm thinking of doing, working, it will be worth the effort to get better pictures, trust me. Let's try not to make this about finding out what I'm working on, just on getting better pictures.

Yeah that right side sure looks like a 240 bushing on a 280 rack.....

I'd love to try some solid bushings and remove ALL play. Gimme dat road feel!

The only set of new poly I have is a pair from GMachine, labelle as for 260/280. The left side bushing is 1.45 thick. I also measured the right side bushing flanges. Same width as the left side, 1.1 for 240 and 1.35 for 260/280. i have one stock 240 (used) bushing set, left side is 1.15 wide, no wonder it takes little aging to make them loose. Notice that the steel caps that hold them down are all the same width. So the outside groove in the bushings all all the "same" regardless.

Ok, 240 rack left side flange spacing is 1.1 inch, 280 1.35 inch. This is measured across the flats above the chamfer/curve at the bottom.

240 racks have a narrower driver's side flange on the racks, so maybe your rack is 240 but the bushing is 280? I need to go measure each of them. Hang on. All that said, the poly bushings are a very very tight fit. Many have trimmed the inside edge to match the chamfered/rounded rack casting down at the bottom of the flanges and I've had to use hose clamps and grease to squeeze those suckers in place. Usually have to use longer M8 bolts to catch the caps without the bushings fully seated then tighten them down to squeeze everything together. Later you can change out the bolts to the right length.

Excellent writeup. How many triple carb setups have I seen with a little K&N filter on the block tube and often the same on the valve cover. I just checked Rock Auto's listing for PCV valves for the 83 NA and Turbo models to look for differences. They list the identical valves for all of the approx 6 manufacturers of valves. Great..... And while it's "possible" that all these valves meet the turbo sealing spec, I think we know the truth about that... And to assist with the actual question, once you get your balance tube back on, put the stock PCV valve back in and run the stock PCV hose between the block vent and the PCV valve. Put a little knipple on the back of whatever air cleaner you run and put that hose onto the valve cover.

Oh that's not right.....

The clutch feel in my 2017 370 was also horrible. Nearly impossible to start out smoothly, crazy long travel. The shifter itself was generally "ok" but I'd often find myself hunting for the right "next" gear when driving it hard and shifting fast. Pretty crappy overall for a modern car. All of my older Datsun's feel a million times better. Bit hard to comprehend.

Merry Christmas Mark.

Merry Christmas everyone from the snow bound and very cold gang here in Calgary. We asked for a white Christmas and we got one! 2018 is shaping up to be a good one. You-all stay safe and warm today.

Oh sure, now the ideas get pretty thin and sketchy... Didn't mix up the domes/piston sets? Check for the tinest burrs, nicks, spider webs, nose hairs, something that's causing the dome to go on crooked.... Lather it all up inside with tons of damper oil? Color the piston all over with sharpy then get it to stick, then look for where it's touching by where the sharpy is wore off. Enlarge those holes where the locator pins fit to give you more position adjustment. Make whereever locates the dome looser or freer

Oh oh. Start with checking if the needle is bent and rubbing on the jet tube. Try torquing down the dome screws in a slightly different order. Can it be put on 180 degrees rotated? Maybe hold the piston up with your finger as you tighten it down? Has the plating added thickness somewhere where it shouldn't have? Add some oil?

Maybe he's referring to the modern "struts" you can buy that are the housing/strut and shock cartridge (and often the spring as well) as a one piece bolt-in affair. No such thing exists for S30.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,strut,7584 If you want to maintain stock ride, the basic KYB GR-2 is hard to beat.

Good question. Three possibilities. There is a 510 specific two choke cable, which I "think" I have one somewhere that needs work. If I use a Z console like I did on my 69, I can just use a Z cable and mount it in the console. Last I've been trying to dream up a linkage "thingy" that converts the dual carb chokes into a single cable for 510's since the "right" one is nearly un-obtainium. Maybe some cold night the right simple design will come to me. I keep thinking of stepper motors.... Heat shield. yes, 6 gaskets, both sides of heat shield and insulators. The back of the heat shield has gold reflective foil on it You're trying to block radiant heat directly between the header and float bowls, can't stop circulating heated air from getting around the heat shield without getting really boxy around the entire carb/fender area. Line of site baby.

Engine is fine. Check the fuel supply.

Now how am I going to resist the urge to go for a drive in a Datsun to the mountians this winter? Not sure where to find knobby snow tires anymore to recreate this properly..

Oh sure, EXACTLY what I need and oh good lord, could you BE any further away... 8K Km round trip. In winter. Any body coming this way with a 1/2ton to say, Montana, North Dakota etc, for Christmas? I wonder what the maximun weight for airline carry on is?

Jolly good! Wouldn't have imagined there would be enough meat to do that. I'll see if that's an option on these miniature 38mm wonders.

Got these beautiful FLAT TOP carbs running on the 510 tonight. They run SO well. Took it out for a quick back lane romp and had TOO much fun. Here is proof of concept. Note. The idle is happening with the throttle blades 100% closed. I swear I'm going to get fake plastic hemi-spherical caps made that you can snap on your flat top bells so you don't have to be embarrassed every time you open your hood... And no laughing at the roof rack or the mack-tack paint job....