zKars

After going through a couple hundred, there are only two types of markings. The ones with the Trapezoid always have a single letter on the opposite side, and a variety of numbers and dots next to the trapezoid. The ones that start with S have NOTHING on the other side. I can't see any structural or size differences between the two types other than the markings. Given all the stock engines I've harvested them from, I guessing they are ALL Nissan rockers. Not exactly a statistically rigorous study, but a decent sample size. I do remember a couple of points from a variety of threads on hybridz about rockers. The first point was that Delta didn't always do it right so check every one for even parallel grinding. The second point was that there seems to be a bit of variety in overall rocker arm lengths. I don't remember if they measured the actual ball center to lash pad contact points for consistency but the overall castings can vary. Try to use a set of same-ish length ones if you can of course.

So I have a question about identifying Nissan rockers. While I have a 'few' rockers and have handled many, I have not studied the markings in detail. My "assumption" and memory said there was a nissan symbol on them. Now looking at the ones on this head, and some of the others, I see really only two patterns. One has a trapezoid symbol, then a 6 (most but not all) with a following dot pattern or number, or a 3 or 4 digit alpha string starting with S and sometimes a dot pattern. It was the little trapeziod I always thought was the Nissan identifier, but admittedly that is a very very old memory Since all but a couple of the 12 on mine where the S type, I assumed them to be ne non-Nissan, but I'm not sure. Anyone with experience in these markings? Cause if they ARE all Nissan, then the pitting and deterioration may be oil choice related or oil volume or something else.

Lash has been stable for a number of years. I'd never attempt to fix the pits, just get fresh surfaced rockers from Delta. I have a 'few' extra's laying around. I wonder if I get a discount if I send them a couple hundred..... Courtesy and couple of other Nissan parts supplies show ~$37 USD per rocker for new ones. Maybe the most surprising thing I see about this is how little damage has happened to the cam given the mileage and rocker condition.

Well I'm in the process of removing my 3.1 classic stroker engine for sale, and decided to do a bit of measuring and testing before it leaves so the new owner has an idea of what to expect and what service it might need. It has been in service for quite sometime. I wanted to do a leak down test, and the best way to do that is to remove the rocker arms and keep all the valves shut. That way as you apply compressed air to each cylinder, if and when the piston gets pushed to the bottom, it doesn't move the cam and open any valves. This way you don't have to get and maintain perfect TDC while you do each test. So I merrily proceed to remove my rockers. As I begin removing them and wiping the oil off I am flabbergasted to see rather nasty pitting wear and un-even wipe patterns on each and every rocker. See pictures below. The cam has surprising little troublesome wear. Some of the rub patterns aren't exactly centered, and have variable widths, but there is no gouges or scratches or anything nasty. It is a regrind on a Nissan stock cam. Let's keep in mind this motor has been running quite happily for an estimated 50-60,000 km over the past 10 years or more, and the prior owner put some miles on too, so its not this is new after a fresh cam. I've been keeping the lash set about once a year and never noticed the rocker damage. You can't see it without removing the rockers. The rockers are NOT Nissan rockers. So I'm assuming the issue is mis-matched harndess. What is not clear to me is that the pitting is on the "Fore" part of the pad, before the actual contact patch. How does that happen without the forces of contact? The actual contact areas are more or less smooth, with varying amounts of wear from rocker to rocker, generally the contact patch is placed far too far forward (toward the valve), so the lash pads are wrong as well. Correct course of action is to get a new cam and some Nissan rockers (new or Delta regrinds) I suppose and start fresh. I should gather up my used rocker collection and send them off to Delta. Used to be $3 each to do, Likely more now... So what's the current wisdom about sourcing rockers? ITM ones are available from Rock Auto, but after seeing this, I'm pretty sure I'm sticking with Nissan.

Just saw a post of Facebook today that claims it burned to the ground.

Matt, PM and I'll give you me cell and we chat about options. I have lots of SU parts and air cleaners etc to get you going.

FYI, the sleeves are typically from SKF, Speedy Sleeve or Timkens Redi Sleeve, at least that's the only one's I've seen. No, check that, I've also seen listing for these sleeves on RockAuto too. Point here is that they are easy to use and install yourselves. Don't be afraid to try.

Interesting car. I love the ingenuity of the previous owner. I'm SO going out and making an intake just like that one! I bet there is a cone air filter out front of the rad but yes, show us more pictures! I will not use exhaust tubing or crush bends however.. Wait, I don't have a Z at the moment.... oh well. It's missing the heat shield which is why the carb return springs don't have a place to connect at the bottom, so what was done is what you see to make them a place to mount. The PCV valve should be connected to the open block vent. The valve cover connects to the missing air cleaner housing as mentioned. Take heart. If it runs and stops you've got something to work with. I suppose I can offer an air cleaner housing and heat shield so you can get that thing looking and working a bit more 'right" under that hood.

We need more details about the sender retailer, such as a website or name. Great find! The wiring comes from a connector that is next to the right rear tail light harness behind the plastic trim panel in the hatch. This sub harness then goes through a grommet through the hatch floor to the sender. It also connects to a ground bolt (inaccessible above the gas tank....) and also has a wire for an electric fuel pump. The sender wire is yellow, the fuel pump wire is green. Just a thought about your rear mount gas filler neck. Remember that while filling, you need a 1/2-5/8" vent hose connected back to just inside the filler neck, to allow air to escape or you will have a real witch of a time putting gas in the tank.

That's notin', clean that up with my toothbrush. How about this one?

Well you never know what you might find in a Z at a wrecking yard. I found a brand new Kamei ABS front lip air dam, complete with the original documents and sticker. It attaches with a few screws to the underside of a stock valence. Good for Z's through 6/74 apparently. There is several pages of instructions and a letter from the manufacturer thanking you for purchacing their products. There is no indication of dates on the paper work, but I'm thinking late 80's early 90's? Nothing on it remotely resembling an email or web site, Anyone know more about the life cycle of Kamei? I'm no fan of this thing, just something cool I found. I suppose it's for sale. Would be a pretty big box.... Make me an offer if you just can't stand life with out it.

I would think the screaming engine and tire noise when you drop the clutch would hide those noises! Hahahaha

The bushing helps to keep the spring quiet I think. Since that spring is constantly in motion, it would quickly wear a groove and start sqeeking on every pedal press. Just think up tough that will insulate that point. Think natural products, like leather maybe

They are 30mm long. The heads are kinda unique, 24mm socket.

$300 bucks for a set! Holy cow that's crazy. I can sandblast mine and have them yellow zinc plated for $20! Wait, $1200/4, I get it..... Never mind..... I'm heading back to the junkyard to get more of these....

Charles, measure the diameter of the wire and add that to the post. That's enough info to get a close enough replacement from someplace like McMasterCarr.

I snagged a set of those bolts from a wreck the other day if you can't find yours. They are M22x1.5 and NOT easy to find as a generic bolt. There is a biga$$ flat washer and star lock washer that goes with as well. PM me or email at z240@shaw.ca

The antenna is mint. And it's the ultra valuable 73 model. ...

Classic Instruments SN38 can be built either 0-90 or 90-0. It's an arm style sender. Having a reversed 0-90 just means full = empty, empty = full. At least it bang on at half a tank! Hahahahaha

Belmetric has JIS spec bolts, and clipsandfasteners.com (search for M6 SEMS) have CAD plated bolts as well .

I bought SS hoses from several sources over the years and NONE of them have the correct (I thought it was 17mm??) hex that seats correctly in the retainer bracket. Close, but no cigar.... Brake or clutch

I found this stuff at the local auto parts store. 2" diameter heat riser piping. Accordion stretchy hose.

I've ordered the tanks-inc pump. Great feedback about your pump's performance in low fuel Steve. It has a small baffle tub and a sock - like thing on the inlet so it should be ok in all but near-near-near zero fuel situations. Actually my favorite way to be caught in the "Im out of gas again!?!?!?! Nooooooo" situation is to have everything going fine, then start going up a hill.... That last quart sloshes to the back, and the damn car dies; half way up said hill; and funny thing you can't push that Datsun that is now blocking traffic on the busiest freeway in town up that same said hill and out of the freaking way...... because you're on a hill !!!! Arghhhhh". I'm moving back to southern Saskatchewan where there are no hills. Or trees. Oh right, the point of that copious rambling. Going to mount the pump in the BACK of the tank rather than in the middle. Going DOWN a hill and running out of gas is actually fun.

Four banger. Can't afford three of those Jenvey TB's. ;O

Richard, I will indeed be using your services regardless of which system I go with. This does l'ean' me in the haltech direction ? You mention the 6 cylinder preference, and reading the webpage it clearly best for 6, but there is a statement in the 'Engine Suitability" section that says 'basic 4 and 6 cylinder engines' so it will be fine regardless, and would suit whatever I do in the future.