zKars

Picture was taken 12/10/2009 5:22PM however the haircut dates to the 80's... The original name was : nissan-370z-41101035837991600x1060.jpg ?? 1...

240Tom, (or pooched, whatever you perfer...) I believe I may have an early hazard switch in the pile somewhere. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and I'll find it tonight to send you a picture. There may be a couple of variations on how long the two sets of wires are that come off the back, send me a picture of yours and I'll compare

Brake fluid absorbing water and causing rust... well, see post #6. Maintenance. Also, I think it absorbs it, its not free to cause rust. And for a long time, there is more brake fluid than water... Check out these cool brake and fuel tools. Specialty Products : S.U.R.&.R. Auto Especially LW700/750/800 Flex Head Ratcheting Line Wrench Sets Gotta get me some of these and stow the vise grips for good.!! Merry Christmas! 3...

Another bizarre idea. How about using brake fluid to lube the threads? Apply NO sealant of any other kind to brake fittings due to the contamination risk issue are mentioned. SS bristle bushes are the best for cleaning as mentioned. Only crazy people like us who take our cars apart every weekend for fun worry about the brake nut threads getting corroded. If you are worried about it, add the step of adding a few drops of brake fluid to each line nut at your regular lube and oil change interval to keep them fresh and accessible in case the urge ever hits you to change rear brake calipers while picnicing. 4...

"Do you research please". I think we got that one checked off....

Mine is getting a new friend! I guess its more of a relative...

Yes, a little realm and google hunting suggests that there appears to be both 200 and 225 mm L20B flywheels. Beware. 7....

Me thinks I may have read that the L20B flywheel has a 200mm friction surface. I'll have to check on that..... 8....

I have just a teeny bit of 510 knowledge now (little knowledge = dangerous), and I can tell you that L16 and L18 cranks/flywheels have 5 bolts and have 200mm diameter clutches. L20B's however have the 6 bolt cranks and you can use Z flywheels all you like on them. It would then be incorrect to state that all L's have the same flywheel requirements. Also don't forget the 280z and ZX 2+2's also had the 240 mm flywheels, not just the ET's.

Please do not take this as raining (or ice storming or snow dumping, depending on where you are this past weekend) on your parade, but these GM HEI ignition modules can be "less good" than the stock ZX ignition modules. Your solution to keep the stock module but to "wire it through" is great to keep the dizzy sealed. Most just remove it entirely and splice into the two remaining wires, which does not solve the hole in the side of the dizzy problem unless you goop it up with somethin' They are definitely "More good" from the point of view of cost and sourcing a new one when the old one fails, no question. However their performance, especially at higher RPM's (above 5K) can be much worse than the stock module. There was a discussion on HybridZ about this, and it was pointed out that there are better high performance versions of this module available (from MSD I believe) that are designed for higher RPM and spark performance. http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/msd-5596/overview/ is the simple one, http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pnx-d2000/overview/ for a real flame thrower! You must also be careful with your coil selection when chosing the HEI ignitor, (ohm internal resistance = 3ohm for most) to provide reasonable life with both the module and coil. Don't forget the simpliest and most modern approach of all, the now common Pertronix upgrade (discussed at length here), that combines the rotation pickup and ignitor in one tiny package inside the dizzy. So if the HEI upgrade makes your car run the way you like in your operating range, then great. Nothing more to do. If it gives you noticable problems at higher RPM's , then consider upgrade to a "better one". You chose the device.

Excellent point Zedy. In fact, other than the dirt intake issue, the fuel bowl has to be at the SAME pressure as the inlet air going into the air horns. This is why that vent hole is right next to the intake, they are DESIGNED to be in the same air space, ie INSIDE the filter. With rad fan and other "wind"while moving, racing past the exposed vent holes, and the pressure drop inside the filters, the vent and intake air will not be at the same pressure. Now maybe, most of the time, the pressure difference is negligable, but not always....

No trick to knowing how much the head is shaved, and hence how much cam spacer is needed. Look in the factory service manual to get the un-touched head thickness, subtract your current head thickness, and viola, but the magical power of substraction, you know how much spacer you need under the cam towers. You can also take some off the top of the front cover if clearances get too tight there. There is no "too thin" until it causes valve to piston touch, or you get too close to the edge of a valve seat, or you break through the casting into water or oil passages. If the engine turns over by hand with no plugs in (no compression) (do not use the starter!) without the slightes hint of binding, then the valves don't touch the pistons. The plasticine trick is great to find out how close they come, then you can decide if its too close or not.

I've purchased plenty of connectors from them in the last few years. My experience is the same, great vendor, and good quality products and very reasonably prices. Their crimper is the best price for a tool of that type that I've seen yet.

Yeah, they have been "adjusted". They are close to stock, but definitely opened up some. The orfice size is critical to having a stream velocity that will reach the windshield but still deliver decent volume. Try tapping them shut a little at a time until they squirt better. I replaced mine with '08 Altima heads that are fitted to the top of the cowl. They have two streams each, and have a decent spray pattern. Stock pump runs them fine. Cost about $8 bucks. I think I have an old set here is you want better stockers. Let me know.

Granny, check out the weber air specific filter that UNI has on the automotive page! Maybe these dont screw with the air patterns into the horn as much Automotive | Uni Filter I hope they mean $32 per pair, but I'm afraid not.

The air horn filter thing has been discussed recently on hybridz. Weber Velocity Stacks Filters or No? - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ Given what the advantages of using air horns do and how that works, ie the improvements in air pattern and flow at the lip of the horn, it seem intuitive to me that using those mesh filters that slip over that critical lip shape can do nothing but remove most if not all of the advantaged gained. Let alone the poor filtering they provide. Do they look cool? Yup.

All heads swap and fit between all the years, as long as you use the head gasket intended for the block not the head. The concern is chamber and piston volumes as mentioned. The one issue that may prevent you from selecting one head over another is your choice of fuel delivery. All heads are drilled with the 8mm holes to bolt on the SU manifolds, but only the N42, N47, P79and P90 heads have the 10mm threaded holes for the Fuel injection manifolds. These heads also have the notches cut out of intake ports for fuel injection knozzles. So if you have FI, and want to use an E88 head, you're in for some fun!

That pretty much sums up the man and why we love him. Thanks for sharing that.

OMG, yes, that could have an effect. No pressure equalization, pump starts sucking the tank flat..... things go downhill quickly. There is supposed to be a small vent in the gas cap, make sure it's not plugged. Early caps didn't have it, 74 though sure should. If your cap has a flat bar to grab, it should have a vent.

I'de be doing some serious testing to ensure your timing is where you think it is..

Mud flaps.

When you front wheel drops into a washout hole, or over a sharp bump, there is considerable force backwards at this instant as well, directly into the T/C rod. If the bushing on the front of the T/C rod pocket is non-compliant, ie the Delrin ball thing or a solid heim joint on who's ever adjustable T/C rod, then that shock goes directly to the frame and to you as a nasty jolt rather than being partly damped and absorbed by the rubber bushing. I'm pretty sure John has mentioned this in the past. This is one reason I kind of like the forward T/C rods on the ZX and 510, you can put a solid mount on the back (wheel) side, and a soft rubber on the front, which gives you better location under decel (compression) helping steering inputs, but bump compliance when you drop a wheel in a hole and get that rod in tension. Everybody go out and flip your T/C rods to the front! Just takes a little welding and rack link bending for clearance, no big deal. I kept all the several stock rubber steering insulators from all the guys I've done poly replacement jobs for, just waiting for this moment of revelation. If anyone really wants a stock one back, let me know. $5 + a stamp. Maybe I should make it $100 each to make us pay for our foolishness! . Guess I'de better keep one for myself.

A Canadian preaching from a soap box is bound to overlook humorous irony

The trick with this type of diagnosis is to have a way to monitor the system inputs and outputs, and then watch which one goes away at failure time. With a fuel pressure gauge you can see if the fuel supply stops or is too low to support combustion. With a volt meter on the + side of the coil, you can tell if the power supply to it goes away. With a timing light, you can tell if the spark goes away, indicating a distributor or ignition module failure (not firing the coil). Imagine duct taping the fuel pressure gauge, voltmeter and timing light (with flashy end pointing at your face) to your hood then going for drive to see which says DEATH first when the car quits. Of course in your case, it will happen over and over at idle in your drive way, so should be easy to spot. You are quite lucky in that regard. Another key indicator is the speed at which the car goes from "working" to "not working", at least for cars with carbs. Electrical failure happens immediately, while fuel starvation happens slowly. Fuel injection unfortunately also can turn the car off in a heart beat if the injectors stop firing (ECU), but can happen more slowly if the fuel pressure drops off from full to none over a period of several seconds. Common failure components here are ECU, the coil, distributor reluctor pickup windings, Ignition module (under pass dash), power to coil, fuel pump, plugged lines and or filter, or just a loose wire that moves just enough when it or something connected to it gets a bit warm. Happy hunting.

fuel pressure. Many causes. Line getting plugged, fuel pump failing. is your gas tank vent working? Put a pressure gauge on it after the pump and watch it while driving