zKars

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/35247-rear-hatch-emblems-postion-measurements.html the search function above works well. I searched for 'hatch emblem position".

Body Side Molding, Truck Molding, Car Molding, Vinyl Trim

There is a proceedure in the FSM for tightening that nut. You torque it to a spec while spinning the hub then back it off some until the cotter pin can be put through. Being a bit loose generally won't cause noise, but if the bearing is not tight, it will wear quickly and then cause noise. The FSM is availble from the reference link in my sig. Check if the backing plate rubs the brake rotor. It may have been bent during the brake job.

What game? Something special on today?

The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen. You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous. That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year. Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/fuse-blocks.html The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want. AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right! http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/relay-holders/hl62943-mini-relay-box-4-gang-splashproof.html

Zedy, you got a Mallory part number to share with us, for that pump of yours?

No need to fiddle with the interior baffle. The fitting is threaded into the valve cover. There is a hard sealing compound at the base thats keeping it tight. Just heat it up with a propane torch and it will spin out. Clean it, thread it back in and JB weld it into its new position.

I remember Canadian Tire had a cathoidic protection device for sale a while ago. I found this on their web site. Read the customer review. I think that will answer the question at hand. Canadian Tire - CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings "I bought this device hoping it will help to prolong the life of my new Infinite G35S which already a 4 years old car by now. Two days after I installed this unit, its LED no longer blinks. Exchanged for a new one. 3 weeks later, I found a newly developed rust spot on the surface of the car. Called the owner of this counteract company. He confirmed that the unit will *not* help to prevent the rust from forming. It only delays a few more hours..." Most of the other reviews are equally as negative and some are just hilarious to read. Especially the warranty related ones.

Make someone happy and think outside the North American box....

The BD bumper are being discussed on Hybridz. Pictures and opinions there. Pics of the new Black Dragon Euro/JDM style (no holes) 240Z bumpers they just released. - Body Kits & Paint - HybridZ $777.65 shipped for the pair according to one poster. The SS bumpers from Harrington/VN at $1050-ish for the pair are likely still the better deal since they will never rust and can be straightened or re-polished if ever damaged without the crazy chrome cost. Depends on your personal future value calculation.

I don't have a problem with a Datsun parts addiction. I just do whatever the parts tell me to do. Which is typically something along the lines of "I'm lonely. Get me more friends"....

That does not appear to be the correct hose. Might be for a 280ZX, very similar as you can see, but a different shape to around the power steering pump and to fit the different engine bay shape. The upper horizontal part from the inlet below the fuel pump over to the shunt looks WAY too long. Go shopping for a new hose. I'de be tempted to shorten that upper section and see if it fits better, but you might have to shorten it in the center of the horizontal section to retain that kink at the inlet end. Means a splice tube and two more clamps. Naw, just go get the right hose...

Like kids in a candy store, I swear...

you still have the flex plate adapter on the end of the crank. Remove it (just sitting there) then you will have the correct ID on the crank.

Today while looking at e-bay at something (strange for me, I know...), and I noticed a set of leather shifter and ebrake boots from this company (Top Gaiters) from the UK. Datsun 240Z 260z 280z Leather Shift Boot E Brake New | eBay What caught my eye, was two things. Real Italian leather, 100% feedback, and CHEAP!!!! Even the shipping is cheap. $35 bucks for the pair and $9.99 shipping to my door in Western Canadia! I'm not currently in the market for a set, have no idea if these guys are worthy of my praise, but compared to "common retail" (reads MSA..) they represent significant savings if you know what I mean (IYNWIM) They have colors, and will do custom work too. There, that's me good deed for the day.

Bonzi, are you sure the brake lines will work as clutch lines? You need a male end at the clutch slave (with copper crush washer), don't all the 240/260/280z brake hoses have two female ends? I think one of the 280zx brake lines are male/female and could work as a clutch line for any Z. Don't have the parts in front of me, could be missing something here...

jalex you're going to need the 4-lever control to make the adaption to the stock controls possible. Their linear motion can be connected to the stock control motions. The rotary controls make this more difficult. You might ask if they can supply the rotary fan switch separately to replace your stock fan switch and mount that in the stock location, then use the 3 VA slider controls behind the 3 stock levers. That way it will look and function as stock

I have installed both, and from what I can tell, they use identical internal components, and should perform the same. The slight re-packaging of the mini with the fan housing vertical rather than horizontally appears to the only difference. I prefer the mini myself for fitment. Any size reduction is s good thing, and if you decide to duct the fresh air vent into the fan, its easier with the the mini with the fan inlet directly facing the vent hole in the cowl. Mine kept me cool in Phoenix at 104F with the fan on low or medium and the temp no more than half way to full cold. The low speed is about 20% faster than the stock fan on high. Its actually too fast for most situations in my usual location here in Calgary, I've been meaning to put a pulse-width modulated voltage controller on it to slow it down. You likely won't need to do that.

I've done three Vintage air conversions to Z's in the last few years and will do another on a 510 this winter. All went well and function very well. There is at least one thread on here about those conversions. One person did a very nice job of using the stock control panel levers to actuate the Vintage Air electrical controls hidden behind. This required extensive modifications to the control panel as you can imagine, but its possible. These installations are very very custom in nature, and require about 50-70 hours to complete. You have to fabricate EVERYTHING, from compressor brackets to control panel integration, underdash evap and blower mounting, air plumbing, A/C and heater piping and wiring. The dash has to come out and you go from there.

That is somehow deeply disturbing, but I can't quite decide how....

Sorry got distracted with this holiday thing going on... If you want the bolts email z240@shaw.ca. Merry new year!

202-4206 is the ARP head stud kit you need for the L24/26/28 head. The kits you mention are for the A12 and A14 engines. Look under Nissan on Arp's site to find the 202-4206 kit.

This situation requires more investigation. As blue suggests, go ahead and straighten the bolt if you can. Then remove it. It has a 24mm head and its accessible from inside the hatch. Its located between the strut tower and brace that runs from the strut tower down to the floor. Both are under the vinyl trim. Peel it back slowly to release the glue. I've gotten them out with a short 1/2" 24mm socket and a short extension with a long handled L-bar. Its tight. Impact with a u-joint works too. Since the car was in a passenger side rear impact, this is no doubt what pushed the moustache bar and bent that bolt. What bothers me is a possible stress fracture of that bolt. Its a hardened bolt and not meant to take a bend of that magnitude. That's why you have to remove it and have it carefully inspected. The act of bending it straight again will make it worse. You can get one from Nissan, if not, I have spares. I'de want the wheel alignment checked and see reasonable proof of the frame straightening results. The fact that they missed the bent bolt implies they likely didn't take apart or really didn't check things very carefully. Beware.

dhp, there is no way in Datsun hell that wheel is from any stock S30 on this continent. The wheel that BlackGoldMan shows is the typical 280Z wheel. The welding of the center horn hubby thing to the wheel marks it as a "hybrid" that someone invented. That's no factory weld... The wheel itself looks like a 70's OEM wheel from a "something", maybe even Nissan, but no S30 I've ever seen...

Now that was simply grand! I was bit short on Christmas spirit, until I read that verse, but now that I'm finished, things seem less worse! Merry Chriztmaz!