zKars

I can't help but admit this is a bit self serving, but how many of you routinely check the datsunclassifieds for parts your are looking for? I tend not to post parts for sale here, but just did post one over 'there' and wonder how active sales are? I will not post a link to the ad in an effort to convince you that this is a valid question that deserves some feed back. Perhaps admin Mike will appreaciate some discussion here. I really like the hybridz approach of just having for sale and WTB ads just be part of the daily posts that come and go. Since I always start the day with a "what's new" click, it would be great if any new ads on datsunclassified where just a simple part of what appears.

Montezuma, you can be assured that the effort, time and care put forth by you and your team and the quality of the events, will be what is remembered about this event, FAR beyond ANY of the negatives. I think I can say from all of us from western Canada that we had a fantastic time and greatly appreciate everything that was done.

We are here and have seen it in person. It is incredibly well done. Not sure I love it, but I definitely like it a lot. Best thing that ever happened to a 2+2. Congratulations to all involved.

Steve, so are you staying long enough to drop in at ZCON down in COOL San Diego this week? Get out of Irvine man! ZCON is reason you're not seeing any Z's. They are all getting primped up (or tuned up) so they can go on a date in SD later in the week.

First welcome to the forum. I'm pretty sure you don't need to change the bell housing at all. All the ZX trannies fit the early Z's without modification (as far as bolting to the block goes). The bell housing switch thing involves using the later 240sx "C" type transmissions. The rear crossmember won't bolt in nor will the driveshaft. You need the T5 driveshaft for its front yoke, and your old drive shaft for the diff end flange and a driveline shop to merge thoese two and make something the right length. The rear cross member will need a bit of a welding job to make it bolt to the trans tunnel mounts. Be sure you take the throwout bearing collar from the T5, and make sure to get a clutch pressure plate and disk for the T5. Common wisdom here (no personal experience, just parroting) suggests that T5 ain't the best 5 speed choice of all the available options. Reliability and gear ratio's seem to sited in most of the discussions that I read. The Nissan trannies tend to come out on top in most surveys. All that said, if you know where it came from and trust stories of its past life (like mileage), then it will work just fine and likely go forever on a stock 73 engine.

Progress!! Excellent Smithers... You definitely damaged the nut start threads with all the previous skewed starting attempts, and you've improved, but not perfected them by getting that store bought nut on there. Now get well hydrated, eat a good meal, listen to some James Taylor ballads, get real mellow and then go put it all together. Whether you think you can or can't do this, you're right, so think positive!

I'd be making darn sure that the one that's spot welded is actually holding the insert in that tube tightly! I know you're in a spot, but if that insert is loose, and can bang up and down inside the strut tube as you drive, it will hammer that barely hanging on gland nut out in no time flat and you and maybe someone around you will be in deep do-do...

Just a bit of news about this Z. It was sold at the auction to a local Calgary buyer, who then recently sold it to his neighbor. The new owner contacted the Z club looking for assistance as it is in need of a few things, and I was able to help him. I directed him to our fine forum, hopefully he will chime in shortly and introduce himself.

Oh crap, thanks a lot. Now I have to go look at mine before we leave this weekend for San Diego just in case! As if I don't have enough to do already.... At least I know what to do with the open hole

I have the vintage air Gen II system in my modified Z motor with a lumpy idle. It idles just fine when the compressor is on. The load with the compressor on is not significant. If you put too much Rxxx refrigerant in the system, and the pressures are too high, and the compressor makes noise and overloads, THEN maybe you will problems with idle. but if its filled properly (ask me how I know....) then it works like a modern car. At worst you might have to is turn up the idle speed a bit. Remember that a fan on the AC condensor rad is critical if you are going to spend a lot of time idling in traffic. Don't rely on the engine fan to help with that.

Dang headers. Always getting in the way. The threads are 10x1.00, not a common bolt size. Buy a chunk of premade brake line with 10x1.00 nuts from any old car parts store and sacrifice it to get a line nut off (maybe ask if they have loose 10x1 nuts) and get it working in the threads. THis will act as a clean up, then try your brake line again. I guess buy two, so you can bend up a new one if you need to. Doesn't have to be the exact same shape or length. Could even use a SS flexible line with two male ends. Got a speed shop nearby? You have to have a flare tool to cut the existing line and put a new nut on. Easier to just buy a generic new line and bend it up to fit.

Hey Ed, glad to hear you're still thinking Z cars and expanding the applications. The 74-78 Z's with FI all use a single wire from the coil "-" terminal to the ECU pin 1 as the ignition trigger, so technically as long as the coil output is "the same", then using an 123 dizzy shouldn't cause an issue. Practice may differ from threory as usual, but I'll bet it will be okay.

I HATE brake nuts. Of all the threads I've used brake line nuts cause the most grief. Alignment is key. Loosen the other end of the lines where they going into the distribution block below the master to get the sloe you need. And or remove the bolt that attaches that block to the engine bay so it gives you room to move there too. Do NOT remove them or you will have the same problem. Maybe remove them, bend the master end a touch, then put it back on the dist. block end and try again. I say put the master back on the booster adn tighten it down, since its too long already, being loose makes the alignment even worse. Be careful with any lubricants, just put the tiniest dab on the threads as Jim suggested, don't get any where you touch it. You can't afford any loss of torque or control. And don't get any on the mating /sealing surface. Good luck. Try taping your fingers with something high friction before trying again or at least a latex/nitrile glove.

Not mine and don't know the seller. Just spotted it this AM. Looks pretty darn good and price is very very reasonable too @ $6500 CDN (about $1.25 USD...) 1978 Datsun 280Z - Excellent Condition & Nothing to Fix | classic cars | Edmonton | Kijiji

A tough and common problem. The solution many choose is to put a right hand end on and change the tie rod to a right one as well. Both sides are exactly the same except for the thread. Just have to find an alignment person who can handle moving his wrench in two different directions to set the toe in.

And lets not forget bartsscooterservice for starting this thread. I look forward to some day coming to NL, rent a scooter and having you service it.

Just saw this. If its the two I think, they are 12x1.25 bolts. They connect through the steering arm They are two different lengths, and have a quite a specific shoulder diameter, though that is not all that important. They are 10.9 grade. Hope that helps.

It seems I may have convinced the seller that I am worthy of relieving him of his Datsun burden.

Great article. Thanks for posting it. And I'm impressed to see such a clear and clever "Not even Maybe" statement about the Geortz issue in the media.

Business first. The Z in the ebay ad is a Dec 70 build, who cares about the VIN now..... Still going to go get it (hopefully) soon. ZCON prep and other commitments are not helping the cause much at the moment. Neither is my poor choice of manifold gaskets.... ;( Now, parts wise: NorthernZ, I have a console for you one way or the other. At least the console body itself for sure, and I have certain other components. Pretty sure I don't have a complete Ashtray/door though. Big surprise. 240dwk, the 510 is waiting for paint over the summer. Re-assembly will be over the coming winter. Hope to have it for Kelowna next May long. Somewhere I have a broken ashtray lid that likely has that chrome ring on it. Will find and forward.

I've sent him a note to get the VIN. See what he says. Parts anyone?

I hear ya Steve, its not just the linkage, its just making the overall problem seem worse. Just had to get that off my chest. Water is one of the products of combustion, what you're seeing is not from ambient humidity, or heaven's forbid, cooling system sourced. Not sure what combustion conditions make more or less water, but it sounds like you may have found a cure for California's drought! Collect that water and send it west! Hard to imagine many failure modes that cause a too-rich condition. plugging, air leaks etc tend to make things too lean. Spilling fuel due to too high pressure is all both barrel related though. Hey, you haven't lost any solder out of your bleed pipe hole filling effort have you?et How about damage to the inner venturi where the main jet fuel comes out? scrapping the barrel here, how about the "jet block" that the main jet tubes mount in, its a separate thing, and it screws into the main housing, maybe the screws are loose? The screws that hold it in place are accessible from the accel pump cover. Maybe getting fuel in where it doesn't belong? Loose/missing nuts/screws that hold the main venturi and choke venturi in place from the outside? Did you replace one of your throttle linkage mounting bolts with a longer one and do a number (crack it, break it, bend it) on the venturi just inside?

Ah the old sloppy linkage problem. So many joints, so many places for a little bit of slop and bind and twist to add up to trouble. Who's idea was multiple carbs anyway? So beautiful and so much trouble. So help me if I ever find him, I'll lock him up and make his food only accessible when a complex linkage of bars, pulleys, turnbuckles and wires are working JUST so. Give him a big flat blade worn our screwdriver as his only tool to adjust it. Couple days here and there of working "ok", but mostly months on end of coughing and spitting stink and bad mileage... Me thinks he will starve very slowly.. Bwaaahahahahahahahahahahaa.. Maybe its time for a matched motor servo on each carb shaft and a drive by wire pedal....

Dinner and a show? Well, maybe for some people, but if you're really a car guy, then do this! RACING SCHOOL, Exotics racing school is the ultimate driving experience at Las Vegas Speedway with Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche. or at least this! http://www.shelbyamerican.com And if you must do the show thing, go see The Beatles "Love" cirque show at the Mirage. It's almost done it's 10 year run. Been three times.....

So suspend car from rafters upside down, then inset bolts into manifold upward and tighten? So no-one's heard of the peanut butter trick? Thick enough to hold the bits together while you insert them, then it melts off when you run the engine and you get the joyous odor of hot peanut butter cookies while it melts off. Oh ya, and "A little dab will do ya'!"