beandip

This old debate about armaro-DONT goes on and on. I have tried the stuff since they first produced it in the late '60s . It leaves a oily film and it makes a mess . It makes the plastic and or rubber look good at first but after it first evaperates there is a oily film left. This film attracts dust and dirt. As to how it reacts to the surface , I leave that to others. Personally I wont use it for any thing. In fact I may have a half gallon of the stuff I will give away if you will pay the shipping, this is what I think of anmor-all. Gary

This is why we have been saying to uo the up date the head light wireing with the mod . The switch handeling the load just will give out . Before it does do the up grade .

tomo sorry but this seems parr for the corse. If you want to run one glass pack only , what do you expect ? It is is going to be loud ! This is no mystery revalation . Mufflers are that what the term say , they muffel the sound. I am running a dynmax and I like the sound and the car is scary quick for me . I may add a glass pac to quiet the resonance down a bit in the 3k range. If you are running on the track do what you want . Gary

According to what I have been told the P-90 and P-79 were the latest evolution and had the best combustion chambers . The P-90 as it has been said is from a turbo motor and the 79 na. The 90 has square ports where the 79 are diamond shaped with linners. According to data the P-90 flows slightly better than the P79 , and is suposedly the best flowing head Followed by the 79. They both have the same large valves . When the liners were removed there was vary little difference and the effort required was not worth the gain. Personally I know that the P-79 when milled .030 will yeald 9 to 1 with stock flat toped pistons in a F-54 ZX block . I recomend that you contact a member that builds Z engines for compition use . Find him in the members section phred . He is a welth of information . Gary

Your right will , when someone has lost everything , anything will be apriciated . Good going . Gary

In perspective , to me , it seems trivial debating what air dam or discussing the color to paint my Z , or if a glass pack will be ok. In light of the hard ships some of out fellow members are induring right now. I know that this club and it's membership is about our Zs . And that this is important to us all , my self included . But please just take the time to read the news section , and help if you are able. Can you imagine your self in there situation ? Winter coming on and you see your loved ones that have lost everything . I don't mean to be a bleeding heart here , but please just give it a thought . Even if all you can afford is the price of one gallon of gas , send it . It will help. Thanks Gary

fellow members , we need to post to this thread so that it will appear on the home page . This way it will remind some of the members to look at the news section . Thanks , Gary . By the way Norme Simpers that is menioned in the news section is normthe12secdude that many of you may have heard of.

This heat will warp the drum in most cases .

to all members please read the news section on the home page and read of a fellow Z driver in need of help. If you can , join us and give what you can he is in need . Thanks gary

Benny , you are correct , this is exactly what I did. I had removed all of the wireing and interior as well as the engine and tranny and front fenders. That being said . I got a complete wireing loom from escanlon's parts car which is a '72 . There are many differences between the two years . Mostly it's the connecters . Nissan changed many of the connecters where they ''marry'' the sections together. So if you are thinking of using another loom , use all of it the whole enchalata . Other wise it will be a nightmare . The '73 has a intermittent windshield wypers the 72 does not . The connecters for the 73 dont match the 72 at the combination switch and the colors of the wires differ . I am still working on this part so I can keep the 73 set up. As for emissons stuff , I am not running any . I recommend the use of the wire loom from another Z if you can find one that is unmolested. They are easy to remove if you can find a donor. This way everything just plugs together and works. I did do the wireing up grade for the head lights and am installing a disableing set up for security. Gary

Next time apply PB Blaster to the front of the drum where the drum meets the axel . Rust causes the drum to fuse to the steel . Then strike the drum in FRONT on each side to rock it back and forth to loosen the rust , then I use a block of wood between the hammer and the drum , and strike from one side to the other from the back side , so to rock the drum back and forth . I use some anti seize in this area when I reassemble . Gary

Oxalic acid ? I have used that for removing rust stains from concrete and painted wood but not for mildue . New one for me , thanks . On my Boat before and after winter storage being covered , I used a disinfectant called LYSOL , it kills mildue and mold plus it smells good. It is 79% Ethanol ( alcohol ) Gary

What are you asking ? If YOU like the looks , this is what is important. The only improvement to the performance of the car will be at high speed . For a street use car , mostly it is for looks. REALLY . How many times will you be driving above 85 MPH ? I know I am going to get FLACK for this . but it is the trooth Gary

If the e-brake was set when the car was parked that many years back , most likely the brake linning is rusted to the drum . Just like in the cold country when wet brakes are set and the water freeze to the drum. It is possable to brake it loose by pulling the car and forceing the wheel to turn . This should free the wheel . A car setting as long as this , the drums will need to be removed and the wheel cylinders and most likely the brake lines replaced any way . I really doubt that it is the diff or wheel bearing . Gary

TSP is ment for oil grease , for mold and or mildew a solution of denatured alcohol and water will work , bleach is the best but will damage the carpet . as for the ordor the vary best thing I have found is FABREZE with out a doubt. I used it on the matting from the firewall and trans tunnel . It was musty smelling form being wet for a long time. this was from a parts car. I had dried it out but it still smelled vary musty . I sprayed everything well with Fabreze and let dry completely and the ordor was completely gone . Personally I would just wype down the seats and vinyl with a solution of dish washing soap and water , vacuum the carpets and clean if necessary . If the carpets are faded spray with SEM brand color coat . Landau black, it is the same sheen as the factory when used on the plastic , I used it on my plastic trim pannels and they look like new . The same with the carpet . Be sure to to follow the directions on the can. The febreze is found in the super market in the laundry section . SEM I bought mine at a auto body paint store . The company that makes it is in Charlotte NC 704-522-1006 . There maybe other compnanies that make similer stuff ,but I know of this brand and it works great. Gary

Just go to Nissan and buy an sending unit for a '78 280 Z this is the car you have , right ? I havent had any experience with a after market unit my self , however over the years I have heard from many Z drivers that have. So when one of mine went gunny sack , I just went to the dealer . Gary

Virto , dont buy a aftermarket sender , your Nessan dealer will have them. Gary

Virto, you dident give a location , where are you ? I am in the Portland Or area. Your lack of oil pressure may be because of a weak sending unit. It is a round thing with wire sticking out of it on the passanger side of the engine next to the oil filter . on the passenger side of the transmission there is a electrical cnnection where there three wires connected , this is the lock out for the trans so it wont start in gear . Make sure that the wires are all connected . This maybe the reason the engine wont start in park . Take my word for it , check the fuses with a meter , they may look good but I have seen fuses that looked good where not . This may save you a lot of unneeded time and money not to mention frustration. You may have a bad headlight switch . I drive a '73 and my clock works too . Welcome to the club , Gary

Man , DONT CONNECT ANYTHING ! FIND SOME ONE THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING. If you misconnect the poss and neg you will short out the wireing and most likely cause alot of damage .

Be sure to look up the specks before you set he timing . Don't set it at zero TDC :tapemouth

Forget the word cheap . You wont even find a radiator in a bone yard that is any good , cheap.

if you take the cover off the air cleaner and lift the pistons in the carbs with the engine NOT running . Do the pistons drop down easily with a clunk ? Do you think the engine is running rich or lean . I was wondering if maby a float might be stuck in the carb , either open of closed . You said that the engine ran worse with the choke , then It could be the choke sticking . The hoses that run from the float chamber to the bottom of the jet. are they stiff or brittle , they will harden with exposure to the heat from the header. If this is the case they can cause the choke to stick down slightly and cause a vary rich mixture and the engine will run like crap and the mileage will be bad. When the engine is running this way , try reaching down under the carb and pushing up on the jet and see if it moves up at all . Be shure the choke cable is adjusted so when you push the lever forward the chokes are off completely . These hoses are available from Nissan or Z therapy . the hose from the local parts store is too stiff . Did you check the ballance with a uni-sen ? Please check the contacts inside the dist cap . even if it is only a year old , and if there is any diposits on them scrape them clean .

You have them by the short hairs and don't forget it and dont' sign anything . remember you are covered by your Insurance , take your time and dont' be in a hurry here . Make them wait . There is no need to be a arse H with the adjusters ,They are just doing there jobs. Be pleasent and stick to your guns . Dont threaten with a Lawyer as this will make them stop any contact with you. the Insurance Co that you have should handel everything . Let us know how this all comes about. I know Hagerty just takes care of things . Gary

Miles , take a look at the contacts inside the dist cap and scrape off any buildup. try reballancing the carbs , I hope you are using a uni-sun or equlivent. I don' t know what covering the carbs with your palm is supposed to do , but when you lift either piston the engine should run rough but not die . As what was asked before . did this come on all of a sudden or gradually. One thing , always check for vacuume leaks . Just for kicks check the point gap once more while you are checking the contacts on the cap. See that all contacts are clean at the coil and the plug wires are good.