beandip

Z MAN DID YOU NOTICE THAT THIS THREAD IS FROM JANUARY '05 ???

WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO DO HERE ! THIS THREAD IS FROM MARCH , IT IS OVER AND DONE WITH . If you have a question start a new thread of your own. Entering into an discussion that took place several months ago is useless drivel unless you found that it was totally wrong information and it needs to be corrected. GARY

Bog as you say , is porous . If it is exposed to the atmosphere it will absorb moisture , the same with primer . So any time you have a hole in a panel and you ''patch '' or fill the hole by pushing bondo through it , you will be inviting moisture to penetrate form the back side and it WILL cause further rust to the panel . Shabby body work done this way and this is the cause for a bad name in it's use , SOME TIMES . When you cut away the rusted metal you most likely well find the troubled area is much larger than you thought . As Ed said rust is like cancer , you must remove it . Gary

If there is no water in the oil , milky looking, and no oil in the water again it will float to the top and look like slimy scum . If none of this is happening , do a compression check and see what you find. If the compression all looks good , you most likely just have condensation that is in the muffler or pipeing. When you drive and completely warm up the engine . Like a 30 min drive , this should dry it all out and the steem should be gone. If not and the outside temp is not real cold , I would be supprised if you dident have a blown head gasket , like Ed said. Gary

I must disagree with the statement that the Marine Clean is just a degreaser. It is more than that , in fact if you use it on polished aluminum it will etch the shine off. I know from experience. I contacted the dealer with the question of using the Marine Clean and the Metal ready on a painted surface and they DID RECOMMEND IT. I did and have no problem . 1030 , Like you I painted the under as well as the interior of my Z with POR-15. I have also experienced the same thing Scanlon said with POR on a NON TREATED surface and it did peal just like a sticker. Fortunately it was on a premiered fender that didn't matter if it stuck . Use gloves when using this stuff and plenty of ventilation , it is nasty. My neighbor is a kidney specialist and he said to drink lots of water to flush out your system after using this stuff and breathing the fumes. It really loves skin too , don't let it dry on you .

I used the stuff in my '73 and it has been in for a few years and works great . I have no complaints at all. I used all the material that I recommended in the original post . I also stated that the door seals were reported to be vary good as well , but I hadent used them my self. Gary

Looks like you have a big project , Good luck with your car. I am not local to you so I cannot be of help. There are several members in cal , and so I hope they step up and advice you or be of local help. Gary

u joints are easy to replace. Is there any one that can show you how to do it ? After you see one done you will see how easy it is. Be sure to grease them after you have them installed. They are lubed at the factory , but only enough to hold the little needle bearing in place . If you don't add additional grease the u joint will fail in short order. Don't over grease , just apply enough pressure where you see the rubber seals expand. If you push too much in and dislodge the seal they will throw grease and you will need to lube them often . As to the bushings and such. It depends on what you want to use the car for. If you want it for Auto X , or track use , use urethane bushings . For a street driver , I went completely with the OEM rubber . The rubber is quieter and not as stiff a ride,and they don't squeek. They allow for spirited driving and all . Use the search function on this web site , there is wealth of info there, Gary

Greg , welcome to the web site. It has all been said about great wealth of knowledge that has been amassed here . Carl nailed it about our group wanting to keep the information out there . This is how we can keep the great little car on the road , and enjoyed by so many. I am shocked , sincerely, to be complemented by the gurus I was mentioned with . I learn something new about these cars everyday , and I have a long way to go. It is great that you have this early Z and know of the history as well . Just makes your Z that much more valuable to you as you restore/refresh her. Gary

Depending on what year engine it is . One form a '73 that has 9mm bolts on the rods . Some that are building a stroker engine look for a set of these rods. If the engine is as you say with good compression you might fine someone that has a 240 with a blown engine . If you can get $75.00 to $100.00 don't expect much more. Gary

I used a product from a Company called B-quiet. It is called ultimate and I covered approx. 75 sq. Ft. inside my 240. It is a tar type of material that is foil backed and is self sticking , you just peal off the back and expose the adhesive. It will not absorb moisture and is easy to apply. It comes if a roll. I bought two 50' rolls. It can be cut with scissors or razor knife. I covered the floors , firewall , cowl , inside the doors and inside the rear fenders and hatch where I could reach. All those areas were first covered with POR-15 . I used a layer of matting I bought from JC Whitney , its about 3/8'' thick and is foil backed on one side . That went under the carpet in the hatch area and foot well. I also used the ultimate on the back side of the plastic trim panels in the hatch area. As was mentioned about the original radio being sufficient , this is what I kept. I did use the ''horse hair'' on the firewall too. I found some in great condition . My Z is reasonably quiet for the type of car that it is. I didn't expect the noise level to be that of a BMW, and it isn't. She sounds like a sports car . But I can enjoy the radio and or have a conversation with out any problem. I would be careful using mattress foam or any other open cell foam . They will absorb moisture for sure. Gary

Remember , I qualified the information with '' I havent done this myself but others have and had good results " Gary:cross-eye

Glad it turned out well . That is a beautiful color you laid down . I will be sure to be looking for the pictures when you down load them. Good going . I use PPG also, good stuff . Gary

Recardo , welcome to our club , if we can be of help let us know . Gary

What do you mean all the time ? This is the first time I mentioned it. Thanks for the offer for changing out the struts . I just might take you up on that . I will be in touch. Gary

Welcome to the club , I too have a '73 240 and enjoy it greatly. As was already mentioned , if you have any questions on working on your Z please ask , also do have a look at the search feature , you will find a wealth of information there. Gary

I don't know what up with the banjo fitting , but the fuel running out of the intake of the carb is VARY LIKELY DUE TO THE FLOAT BEING SET TOO HIGH. This will cause the gas to pour out of the fuel nozzle and into the throat of the carb. Gary

I first shot my cleaner with Chevy orange and it is as Ed said vary close to OEM . When I painted my car yellow the orange stuck out like a sore thumb and I didn't like the look, personal preference, so I changed the color to Chrysler blue the same as the block. This blue is again vary close to OEM Nissan block color. I have heard that some of the Z s shipped to Aus. had blue air cleaners . Gary

even if it is raining the day you move the car , what Will ,hls30 , said is what I would do also. This way you wont be blowing all the dust in your new garage for no reason . The primer in any event is porous and will allow moisture to contact the medal . If you were going to store the car for a while , that is different and a coat of primer followed by a top coat of rattle can paint would work. The paint will seal the primer and all could easily be sanded off when you can get back to the preping of the car. Primer without paint is not a good thing. Gary

read jmortensen's post where he said "at least in the US " . There are so many little differences in these cars it is possible that they could have had the hangers on your '70 . I don't dispute it at all . The Z that went to Europe had different suspension parts , turn signal lenses , marker lenses and bumpers without rubber. Plus no emissions junk either . I was looking at a '71 that is all original yesterday , and it had pillar vents and no vents in the hatch , and a few other differences . Gary

Absolutely a great day , good friends and a pleasant drive . I took a few pictures also but these covered what I have . To my defence as to why my Z , the yellow one , sits higher in front. This because I just installed the new euro springs and new struts in front , which causes the higher attitude . This will be rectified shortly as soon as I can get to it . HA Ha . Gary

By in large the 240s did not have sway bars installed from the factory . I have a vary late '73 240 build date 8/73 and it has the hangers from the factory for a sway bar on the body pan. I found a 260 , a early one , that had a sway bar that has a couple of bends in it that allow it to pass the Diff with out hitting it. and installed it on my car with good results. Other than the early 260 Z , I have only seen after market sway bars that pass to the rear , or back end , of the car for the 240 Z . The later 260 sway bar is straight as it transverses the car , just like the 280 , and will not fit on your 240 Z, Gary

I must have misunderstood you The KYB numbers are for the strut insert only. Do you have the club's CD that has the part numbers for the complete car ? It has exploded views of the subsystems . It was taken from the Nissan micro fish with Nissan's approval . Gary

I just replaced my struts with KYBs and the front ones are #361002 they are G-2s Gary

The other details mentioned . Where are you ? If you notice everyone that posts has the location of where they are included . Help both you and us in helping you to find parts , mechanics , and or other members that you may want to meet or not . Gary