beandip

When I pulled the L-24 from my '73 I kept it . I installed a f-54 ZX . But the old engine is a good motor. As luck would have it we found a cherry '72 with a blown engine . $700. and were good to go. Never know.

I use Puralator , PURE ONE . :rambo:And I use Quaker State oil and have been for the past 50 yrs. with out a problem . Gary

The cable runs along the floor on the driver side along the rocker . It enters the doglegg just in back of the door. To access the area that has the antenna the pannel must come off. The antenna'a offered today are wired differently . escanlon can help with this. The ''rivets'' that hold the pannel and several trim pieces have a hole in the center. There is a small plastic pin that was inserted at the factory , it expands the rivet causing it to hold . Insert a small rod , or what ever in the hole and push the pin out and the rivet will release. Before you worry about the length of the cable remove the pannel . There should be a connection there at the antenna to plug into. Gary

I have a '73 with an auto and wondered the same thing . Acording to my trasmission man and several others the openion is that they are bullet proof . The fiest thing I was going to do when I bought my Z was pull the auto and go with a 5 speed. I have driven the car three years and have decided to no way , change. I have insted dropped in a moderatly built '82ZX engine. I personally like the auto tranny. Gary

For one thing the P-90 head is a great one to run on the F-54 block with flat top pistons. You will need to do some work on the head like haveing it milled , but if you are going to build an engine this is something you would do anyway. The head has the good shaped combustion chambers , at least this is what the builders claim. Plus they flow and you dont need to change to larger valves. It is as good or better a head , as anything else you can find. Using pistons from a truck ingine or some other application , is not something done by just the bore size . There are many other measurements to take into concideration . I am going with SUs on my '82ZX flat top motor . I gave away all the injection parts. I dont find the SUs complicated at all , in fact they are so vary simple it is amaizing . I am after a strong engine but simple and easy to maintain. Sounds like you already have the parts for the build accept for 6 pistons. The 2+2 has a larger clutch which is good . Have a look at geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Good info on just what you are looking to do. Gary :rambo:

I sent you a P M with some info on the use of SM needles. Gary

Alan , thanks . Good job, hope to see you more often . Gary :rambo:

What are you asking? Help with webbers or with SUs ?? SUs I can help you with . What is the question ?? Gary

If you put the gear selector out of gear. Then try to start the engine . If the cluch peddle goes to the floor , most likely its either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder that is bad . The clutch or the trans has nothing to do with the engine not starting or turning over . If the battery is charged then the engine should at least turn over if not start. What year of Z are we speaking of ? Is it injected or does it have carbs ? Also what engine is in the car ? All these things help us to help you . Gary

Zman I am going through the same thing right now. I just tonight went through 22 different tire cos. with no joy. I am looking for what you are but I don't want low profile . 215 / 65 X14 . I have found some good tires but not the performance quality and tread style I am looking for . If you come up with a compromise send me a PM and I will do the same. Gary P.S what style I want is like the YOKOHAMA AVS ES-100 OR AVS SPORT .

I have delt with Motorsport and have found them to be vary helpful and I have been pleased with every thing that I have purchiced. The same with Zedd Findings , only Charly Osborne deals mostly in sheetmetal , at least as far as I know. He does have used parts I know . It's worth a look. Gary P S another place is Too Intense Restorations . Again I have aquired parts from him as well .

I have a spindle pin puller to loan . It makes this a morning job , with no hammering and you don't need to remove the controll arm from the car. I ask that you pay only the shipping both ways for the tool and that you return it to me in a timely manner clean and complete. I also have detailed drawings . I need a email address to send the PDF file. This offer is for members only . Send me a PM . This tool saves the old pin for reuse. They are around $20. plus for new ones , thats more than the shipping cost. For those in Oz the drawings are the way to go. It requires the use of a lathe to build the tool. The maker has some for sale , look to the classifide section . It will cost far more to make that what he is selling them for , believe me. Gary

Rust free is the big part . 70K ? If this is true and not 170? And the body is stright. This means no bondo or body dammage that needs to be redone . 6K to 7. So much depends on how complete the car is and how good the interior is from here . If the dash is crack free . If not deduct $500. You were not clear on the interior. If it needs replacing deduct another $3 to $500. that is if you will have it done. Location means a great deal. On the east coast cars like this will bring much higher prices , but here on the west coast they are still more affordable . No salt here. If this is a 2+2 then it is a different breed of cat altogether . Hope this is of some help. Gary

I suggest that you send a PM to escanlon he is a real guru on Z wireing. Gary P. S. If you can say what color he wire is , this would be a big help.

In the same vane. The police just arrested a 19 yr old about 10 days ago for going 142 MPH in his Honda Civic. On the freeway in Portland . When asked why , he just shrugged and said '' I just wanted to see how fast it would go" when asked what about endangering others. He said '' no one would get hurt other than mabey me '' . I don't know what the fine is but I heard it was $6K and could be time . There has been comintary since to make it forfiture of car if over 30 MPH over the posted limit. They cought another going 120 . The spupid press posted that the highest speed ticketed was 151 . and it seems like they are shooting for the record.

Lance I stand corrected here . When you said rattle can paint ,I was thinking you ment zinkcromate or something simular. This would be contrary to the use of rust preventive and the sealing properties of the POR. In this case most likely the cleaning of the pannels welded will rimove the offending paint. The Metal ready has acid in its make-up . When I used POR on my floors I sanblasted prior to welding and after , I preped the metal on both surfaces and applied the POR paint over any and all bare metal . This was over kill , but like you I don't want any problem and I don't want to do it again. Sorry for my misunderstanding . Gary

If you have the timing set at 0 TDC , the engine WILL run crappy. Set it at 10 Before Top Dead Center . This is where it is supposed to run . You will never be able to adjust the carbs with the timing at ZERO . Before you go out and spend a bunch of money on a battery and alternater have them tested . At the vary least the batt. If you are not driving the car regulary the batt will go dead , especially if the top surface is dirty. Gary Smoke means over heating of the wires , either a short or bad connection that is corroded . Start cleaning the connections , viniger on a Q-tip will clean the brass , just be sure to rince with water and dry completely before you reassamble. Dilectric grease will help to prevent further corrosion,

Sorry Lance but I must differ with you on the rattle can paint. The POR is so superior that it is not even funny to compair. Surface preperation is a must with POR but if it is done correctly NOTHING will faze it other than heat once it is cured , you can burn it off. It is important , not to apply POR any where you dont want it to stay , including your skin. wear rubber gloves and have thinner available just incase. :rambo:

I had a bid for $1300. to just drive in and have it done by another welder. He was bidding on doing all the cutting and fitting and welding. Which was just about right in cost for the amount of work involved. I have more time than money , and this is a project for me . Gary

The cost of welding is a hard one. The more you can do your self the better. Certainly you can remove the floor on the passenger side and install the new floor ready for welding. this is what I did . Dont cut any thing out untill you have the new floor in hand. This way you will know how much or how little to take out. You may need to do a little bending and tweaking to fit the new pannels in place. I left an overlap of about an inch and a half. Clean all the crud and wype down with thinner or grease/wax remover on the top side and under side then fit the new floor. I used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold every thing in place and draw things up tight . Started with them about 12'' apart , then went back and added more in between. When the welder goes down the line sealing the seam he can remove the screws and fill the holes as he goes. This cuts down on his time spent and will impact the cost. My Certified Welder charged me $400. for the one side and that included some patches on the driver side and a little by the battery . He worked on it in his spair time and had the car about 2 weeks. I used Zedd Findings floors, there the best . I have some pictures send be a PM with your email address and I will send them. Gary

what can we till you , buy the book. I bought mine on amazon.com years ago along with HOW TO RESTORE . Which I have used much more. Gary

Thanks ! G

I recently finished what you are starting. My suggestion is to finish fitting the floor pannel in and before you sucure it in place . Wype the areas clean with either grease/wax remover or thinner. Then , what I used was self tapping sheet metal screws , secure in place. Escanlon fitted the pannel. Any way then do the welding , then use MARIENE CLEAN to clean and treat the metal . Rince off , then use METAL READY and again rince . Let dry COMPLETELY this is criticle . If ANY moisture is left between the sheets of metal the POR W I L L bubble and foam and will not seal. The metal ready will leave a resadue on the metal , leave it alone . Just paint over it . Now I had cleaned the under side all around the area to be welded and treated all of this as well , and painted it also. It is Not recommended to use ANY THINNER on the surface just prior to painting with POR. If the surface to be painted is not preped properly the paint will NOT STICK AND WILL PEAL OFF. If done correctly it is there forever. I have pictures if you would like to see them send me a PM . The cleaner is more than just a soap it also etches the metal slightly. DO NOT USE THE Mariene clean on your mag wheels, I learn the hard way . It will take the shine off the pollished surface and you will neet to repolish them. Scanlon and I have used POR in most places that are pron to rust and have shot it into the dog leggs and rockers as well , with a syphon gun . Gary The screws were removed as the welding was done and the holes filled , :knockedou

Buy a can of PB Blaster , this stuff really works well on rusted bolts. Spray it on and let it set for a while , it badly rusted over night . Good luck Gary